HOW TO: Install Electric Rear Blind on a W124

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MB Enthusiast
Oct 22, 2010
North West London
W124 E320 coupe, W211 E320 V6 CDI, W211 E63 V8 AMG, R129 SL 280 V6, W215 CL 600 V12 Bi Turbo.
Hello Chaps!

From just wanting to have a gander to see how easy/hard it would be to install the blind and get to grips on what kind of obstacles there may be I started taking bits apart and as it went I ended up installing it!:bannana:
Anyway, this is a Follow on from my last thread Re...

Not sure why i can't post this in the How to section but i'm sure Mods can move this later.

I'm glad to say the installation was a piece of cake and didnt have to worry about all the other connections on the loom that i was unsure about in the thread above.


1x Blind
1x Blind Switch
1x Wiring Loom
1x Centre console panel with the extra switch cut out
1x Blind cover panel

In regards to the cover panel, I will have to re-fabricate this to match the mushroom interior because apparantley this part is no longer availabe in mushroom and only black. It was a special order bit from Germany and even this they have a handful of pieces over there remaining. MB Colindale were very helpful (and patient) as i asked them to triple check colours!!

Tools you need to carry out the job are basic.




Start by removing the centre heater controls. These can be quite tight and and requires some tlc. Climate control models etc won't obviously have these so one less thing to worry about!

I used a long nose pliers together with a soft rag so i dont scratch the controls. You should have a firm grip on the control itself and on the pliers. The motion you should use to pull them out is to carefuly kind pull slightly left and right on it.

Once removed, a nut will be revealed. This needs to be unscrewed to loosen the panel. Repeat the process for the other heater control. Careful you dont damage the bulbs.



Once the center control panel is removed all is revealed. The empty slots in the top panel is where you want to install the switch. I installed mines next to the release headrest switch. Unscrew the top two screws, then the bottom two of the slot panel.

Where the roller temp switches are you will see another two screws to undo.


By undoing the screws, it makes life easier loosening the top switch panel so you can feed the switch connector block through.



In order to feed wires through, the knee panel under the steering wheel needs to be dropped. Start with undoing this nut here. No need to unscrew the foot brake release screws.



As we did for the heater control knobs remove the headlight switch in the same way. It would be a good idea at this point while everything is out to check for blown bulbs and replace.



Carefully prise of the plastic trim to reveal another two nuts. there is another nut behind the headlight switch aswell.

When prising off the trim notice there are two square holes, this is where the hooks on the underside of the trims are. You want to slightly prise the panel towards the right so it unhooks starting from the steering column end.



Move on to the ignition end, and also prise the trim carefully off. Undo the two nuts.



Now you can drop the panel down slightly. i didnt completely remove it as there was no need to.




I fed the connecter part of the loom through the now vacant side where the ignition barel is. No wires at present are connected, the rest of the loom for which you cant see currently is just dangling around! I pushed the connector block through the back and made sure it clicked signifying its in place.

Once in place simply plug the switch in.



For all the dangly loom and the unsued connections of the loom, i tied it up so i can tuck it away neatly under the knee panel.




There is a connection on the loom which is the one that will make everything work. This needs to be connected to a thing called a busbar which is located on the drivers side kick panel.

Remove the kick panel to reveal the busbar. it will be screwed on to a rubber type material. Once you unscrew it, unclip the casings of the busbar to reveal the ports. Use one of the spare ports to plug the connection in from the loom.


You can see here how the connection to the busbar for the blind loom has gone up into the knee panel and is tied in with all the other wires. Notice there is another wire hanging down looking like its going out of the door. This is the wire that will be connected to the blind.

At this point alll the bulk of the loom is neatly tucked away, and the knee panel all bolted back up



The centre console has a new addition! Put back the centre console and all heater/ headlight switches in the opposite way they came out.




Here we have a common setup of the vacumn operated rear headrests. The headrests need to be in the dropped position to be removed from their mountings.

You can see how the head rests loops into the mountings. Remove the rubber piece on the mountings by sliding downwards. The one on the right has been removed.



Now use a flat head screwdriver or a long nose pliers and sqeeze he pin off the hook. carry this out for all the rest. Carefull the pin doesnt ping anywhere otherwise you may have trouble finding it back there!



Once all the pins are out the head rest is disconnected from the mountings.




To remove the headrests from its mountings lock the them up in the up right position. Before you can remove them completely you have to prise off the cappings. Once the cappings are off simply pull the head rests out.





While the head rests are out carefully prise off the speaker grille's Its easy to snap the clips so make sure you feel where the tensions are.

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under each bottom seat base you will see a red clip. The outmost part will be showng when the seat is in place. Press this inwards and then pop the base out.



To remove the back rest there is a nut that holds it in place. Undo this and then lift the back rest upwards.




you need to also remove the upper part of the centre cushion. Again there is a nut holding it in place.




Once you carry out undoing all the rest you are left with this!



Where the first aid kit is secured to, the clips you see are held in by screws. Unscrew them.




The Shelf can no be removed fully. It may be a little fiddly to take out. Part of the shelf where the speakers are is tucked under the rear pillar trim. You can either take the trims of the pillar of or carefully jiggle it out of its seat under it. Once you do both sides slide the shelf towards you.

In order for the blind to sit correctly the three hook type things need to be bent inwards. These can be done by hand as surprisingly they are easy to bend.

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As noted earlier, the wire that feeds power to the blind needs to be run.
I ran this through under the carpet.

I took the door sill off, lifted the carpet so the wire can run nicely underneath it. Follow it through and remove nesacasry trim to avoid showing wire etc. You want to make sure the wire isn't crimped ore pinched in any way so tuck the wire away properly.



You can see the wire running from behind the qtr panel. Note i did not take the qtr panel off. The wire is thin enough to fit into loose gaps.

Nice to see the chassis looking nice and rust free! No subframe mount issues here!



The blind is ready to be mounted.


Connect the fed through wire to the blind motor. you can see here where the wire goes to. Others may route differently.



On each corner of the blind there are two mounting nuts. There is already two pre-drilled holes in this area on the chassis for this to go into.


Tighten the nuts from inside the boot as shown here on each side of the blind. Four nuts altogether. two on each side.



Ignition on then TEST! :bannana::bannana::bannana:


Blind is fully functional.



In order for the shelf to sit properly, it needs to be cut to alow the blind to peer through.



At this point it is good to note actually how dirty the shelf can get. This is 16yrs of dirt. When the shelf was in the car it looked perfectly normal and clean. I assure you its not that bad in reality! The pic on close up makes it look UGLY! You can see the original colour on the edges where the speaker grille sits and also same to where the head rest cappings go.

Before the shelf goes back in, i'm going to shampoo it and dry it out.


On the flipside of the shelf you can see that there is a perforated edge. This is revealed by folding the lining backwards. Its on this pre cut out you need to cut along.

I borrowed my mates jigsaw in order to do this. Using a Stanley could proove to be tricky and you may snap a few blades, cut your fingers then sob that you cant use your new rear blind switch.:doh:



Once you cut it out, it will look like this. The Jobs a Good'un! File or use a fine sand paper to smooth out the edges.

The shelf is ready to be put back in along with everyhing else taken apart.

I swear Mercedes have built cars that can be taken apart and then put back together exactly how its supposed to. No broken this that or the other.

Nice work!

Now I just need to find all the bits, which after seeing this write up, looks like it will be more of a problem.
great info thank you for taking the time to do this
Thanks BillyW124,

I have a electric rear blind plus loom etc that I want to put into my E280 at some point and this will make the job a lot easier. Great idea about just cuting the the parcel shelf instead of trying to find another one...just need to find the time now.
Thanks BillyW124,

I have a electric rear blind plus loom etc that I want to put into my E280 at some point and this will make the job a lot easier. Great idea about just cuting the the parcel shelf instead of trying to find another one...just need to find the time now.

the shelf should already have a perforated line as mentioned. You just have to follow it with the jigsaw. Be careful with the jigsaw though as the blade will tend to wonder due to the shape of the shelf.
Nice work!

Now I just need to find all the bits, which after seeing this write up, looks like it will be more of a problem.

In a hotter country it may be easier i would have thought? :confused:

I'm assuming this option may have been fitted to more cars in a hotter countries than over here and parts of europe perhaps?
Nice one Billy and also good to see it in the flesh :cool:
Nice job mate, and with good pictures of the progress :thumb:

I will be fitting one to my C43 in the near future ;)
Glad you got it sorted, I was dreading doing mine on the 43 but it was just so much easier than I anticipated once I started though it took a couple of attempts to align the blind so it ran smooth without catching the shelf. I replaced the rear shelf for the proper item which luckily was still available from MB.
Well done Billy.
Well done what a fantastic thread and your photo's and explanation was spot on.
Great Job.
Thanks for all the comments guys, :thumb:
Great thread
I am so glad my blind went to a good home. Make sure you use it in a traffic jam. Looks very flash.


Great post Bill, looks like a lot of work & patience there mate! Am bloomin' glad my came with a blind (didn't realise how rare they were when i bought it)!
Hi Billy,
I'm from Thailand and own a w124 300ce '89. I found your project amazes me!! Those electric rear blind kit you purchased is for saloon? Because my blind is difference from your (W124 Roller blind and headrest - YouTube).


Hi and welcome to the forum.The ones for the coupe is specific for it as the saloon (sedan) one is different

The blind on your car is the early one,they change the design on the later cars which is what Billy has
Hi, as D w124 mentioned there was an early type fitted to pre face lift models and the 'scissor' type blinds available to the facelift 124's.

To my knowledge there is no difference between a saloon or coupe rear blind.

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