D
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While I was checking over my 380SL for its’ MOT I noticed damaged rubber donuts at the fuel pump.
The chassis rail has a bracket attached which has 4 rubber shock mounts supporting another plate, this plate has clamps etc to support the fuel filter, pump etc.
Materials needed.
1 4 off Buffers part number MA126 988 00 11
2. 8 off M5 Nuts and Lockwashers or Nyloc if you prefer.
3. 75mm long of 16mm bore fuel pipe + clips to match.
4. 280mm long of 6mm bore fuel pipe + clips to match.
5. 260mm of foam pipe insulation like the stuff the plumber puts around Pipes for insulation. My car had the 6mm Pipe protected by a knackered bit of foam insulation, maybe for heat protection, maybe for damage protection.
6. Fuel Filter
7. If required Fuel Union Pipe MA126 470 01 64 this connects the Reservoir, Pump and Filter, mine was very badly corroded.
8. 5 off Copper Washers to seal between Banjos and Bolts, my Fuel Filter was supplied with 2 new Washers, check your own requirements before starting.
9. 3 off M5 Setscrews about 50m long for the Clamps of the Filter Etc. with Nuts and Spring Washers.
10. Depending on your car you may need de-rusting fluid, Ku-rust or similar, primer, paint for the 2 Brackets as they will almost certainly be corroded.
11. Copper Grease for Fixings on re-assembly.
12. The aluminium pump and fuel filter are prevented from electrolytic action with the steel bracket with an insulting sheet of plastic, I used double sided sticky tape and did not remove the second layer of protective tape.
Tools Required.
Nothing special other than spanners, screwdrivers. A vice is handy to hold assemblies while dismantling as all connections must be very tight to prevent leaks.
Elf and Safety.
1. Car on Axle stands so ensure usual safety rules re these.
2. You are breaking the main fuel line from the tank have a fire extinguisher in the garage.
Method.
1.Jack up car at rear, preferably when car is low on fuel, less to drain down.
2. Remove Plastic Guard (5 Screws) which surrounds the fuel Pump Assembly.
3. Disconnect both Wires to the Fuel Pump, my car has different Nuts on each Terminal to prevent incorrect re-assembly. The pump will run backwards if wires are swapped, check your car and mark wires and pump before removing wires if required.
4. Identify the Fuel Line from Tank and disconnect, allow Tank to drain into Container.
5. Identify Supply Line to engine and disconnect.
6. Remove the Screws which hold the uppermost Bracket onto the Chassis Rail, the complete Assembly should now be removed to a Bench for easier working.
7. Take several Digital Pictures of the Assembly from different angles for later re-assembly.
8. I had to clean, treat, prime and paint both Brackets and the Regulator as they were very badly corroded. I also painted the Chassis Rail underneath the Pump Assembly as it was showing minor traces of rust. I also sprayed the steel pipes, but not the Banjo Couplings with a coat of clear lacquer I had around, polyurethane Varnish would do.
9. Dismantling is straightforward other than rusty and very tight Fixings. Take care if using grinder to remove Clips as Fuel is present in the Pump and Filter even if you get most of it out.
10. In the words of Mr Haynes assembly is a reversal of dis-mantling, but it is straightforward. Check digital Pictures for correct assembly and correct orientation of inlet/outlet Pipes. Better to loosely assemble the Fuel Union pipe before tightening the Clamp Screws to align all without stressing the threads. Smear Copper Grease onto all Bolts and Jubilee Clips, but not the Fuel Lines Threads. Remember to check correct wiring of Pump and re-fill Tank, Start Car and thoroughly check for leaks, re-check all connections and drop down to ground.
The chassis rail has a bracket attached which has 4 rubber shock mounts supporting another plate, this plate has clamps etc to support the fuel filter, pump etc.
Materials needed.
1 4 off Buffers part number MA126 988 00 11
2. 8 off M5 Nuts and Lockwashers or Nyloc if you prefer.
3. 75mm long of 16mm bore fuel pipe + clips to match.
4. 280mm long of 6mm bore fuel pipe + clips to match.
5. 260mm of foam pipe insulation like the stuff the plumber puts around Pipes for insulation. My car had the 6mm Pipe protected by a knackered bit of foam insulation, maybe for heat protection, maybe for damage protection.
6. Fuel Filter
7. If required Fuel Union Pipe MA126 470 01 64 this connects the Reservoir, Pump and Filter, mine was very badly corroded.
8. 5 off Copper Washers to seal between Banjos and Bolts, my Fuel Filter was supplied with 2 new Washers, check your own requirements before starting.
9. 3 off M5 Setscrews about 50m long for the Clamps of the Filter Etc. with Nuts and Spring Washers.
10. Depending on your car you may need de-rusting fluid, Ku-rust or similar, primer, paint for the 2 Brackets as they will almost certainly be corroded.
11. Copper Grease for Fixings on re-assembly.
12. The aluminium pump and fuel filter are prevented from electrolytic action with the steel bracket with an insulting sheet of plastic, I used double sided sticky tape and did not remove the second layer of protective tape.
Tools Required.
Nothing special other than spanners, screwdrivers. A vice is handy to hold assemblies while dismantling as all connections must be very tight to prevent leaks.
Elf and Safety.
1. Car on Axle stands so ensure usual safety rules re these.
2. You are breaking the main fuel line from the tank have a fire extinguisher in the garage.
Method.
1.Jack up car at rear, preferably when car is low on fuel, less to drain down.
2. Remove Plastic Guard (5 Screws) which surrounds the fuel Pump Assembly.
3. Disconnect both Wires to the Fuel Pump, my car has different Nuts on each Terminal to prevent incorrect re-assembly. The pump will run backwards if wires are swapped, check your car and mark wires and pump before removing wires if required.
4. Identify the Fuel Line from Tank and disconnect, allow Tank to drain into Container.
5. Identify Supply Line to engine and disconnect.
6. Remove the Screws which hold the uppermost Bracket onto the Chassis Rail, the complete Assembly should now be removed to a Bench for easier working.
7. Take several Digital Pictures of the Assembly from different angles for later re-assembly.
8. I had to clean, treat, prime and paint both Brackets and the Regulator as they were very badly corroded. I also painted the Chassis Rail underneath the Pump Assembly as it was showing minor traces of rust. I also sprayed the steel pipes, but not the Banjo Couplings with a coat of clear lacquer I had around, polyurethane Varnish would do.
9. Dismantling is straightforward other than rusty and very tight Fixings. Take care if using grinder to remove Clips as Fuel is present in the Pump and Filter even if you get most of it out.
10. In the words of Mr Haynes assembly is a reversal of dis-mantling, but it is straightforward. Check digital Pictures for correct assembly and correct orientation of inlet/outlet Pipes. Better to loosely assemble the Fuel Union pipe before tightening the Clamp Screws to align all without stressing the threads. Smear Copper Grease onto all Bolts and Jubilee Clips, but not the Fuel Lines Threads. Remember to check correct wiring of Pump and re-fill Tank, Start Car and thoroughly check for leaks, re-check all connections and drop down to ground.
