I’ve got rusty pipes

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TeddyRuxpin

MB Enthusiast
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Joined
Jan 10, 2019
Messages
2,364
Location
Cardiff / London
Car
2x E350 CDI Sport W212s... for a bit
Sorting out one problem with my car, I notice another. Since the car sat outside for quite a while, a few parts appear to be a little rusty, usually bolt heads.

But I also noticed this rusty pipe/joint on the left side of the car (when stood in front of the car facing the engine), just under the air intake, going into the radiator.

I’ve tried to take some pictures but it’s a bit tricky to photograph. Perhaps I’ll try to get some video.

Has anyone changed this pipe, how difficult is it?

The bottom part (after the joint to the silver bit) goes into the radiator and the more rusty pipe goes around to the front of the car in front of the radiator and I can’t see where it goes off to.

I’ve not noticed any loss of coolant or this area leaking after a drive.

I also have a problem with the electronic heater booster which may or may not be related

Thanks
 

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That engine bay has "I once lived by the sea" written all over it!! If you have not already Id be giving your rear subframe a really good looking at!!!
 
No visible issues with rear subframe. Car just sat with only occasional use for a year or so. No other pipes are rusty. Not sure how you can get a view of the engine bay when I only posted close up pics.

Does anybody have any info on this pipe?
 
No visible issues with rear subframe. Car just sat with only occasional use for a year or so. No other pipes are rusty. Not sure how you can get a view of the engine bay when I only posted close up pics.

Does anybody have any info on this pipe?
I had the rear subframe assembly of my car inspected a couple of years ago , perfect was the reply , subframe failed , car written off.My understanding is the rear subframes rot internally.
 
I had the rear subframe assembly of my car inspected a couple of years ago , perfect was the reply , subframe failed , car written off.My understanding is the rear subframes rot internally.
So many rot inside out. Alfa brera prime example.
 
Brera and 159s usually rot from the outside and its normally the front frame (rather than the rear) where water gets trapped between the engine undertray sound deadening and the frame itself....which is why I, like many others, removed the cover and repainted the frame as soon as I bought it.....and never refitted it!!!!....nothing but light surface rust in patches on mine.....which is why its easier to spot and you get much more warning or potential failure than on the 212, 218 etc.


.....anyway...back on topic.
 
The bottom part (after the joint to the silver bit) goes into the radiator
If it goes into the radiator then in all probability it is an oil cooler pipe for either engine or transmission.
and the more rusty pipe goes around to the front of the car in front of the radiator and I can’t see where it goes off to.
Probably aircon.

The only way to know for sure is to trace the pipes back and see what their other ends connect to.
 
The only way to know for sure is to trace the pipes back and see what their other ends connect to.
Thanks - it disappears around the front/behind the grille so a little hard to trace, hence asking on here in case anybody else knows.
 
Thanks - it disappears around the front/behind the grille so a little hard to trace, hence asking on here in case anybody else knows.
I'm guessing it leads to the AC radiator in front of the main coolant radiator. Visible from the front?
The other option is to feel the pipes/hoses for activity eg, change of temp with AC being switched off/on - if AC temp changes are sufficient to be discernible that is.
 
Clean it with a wire/brass brush , treat it to a coating Vactan/Kurust etc . Paint it and hope for the best.

Or replace it.

PS . have a quick peek at your metal brake line pipes , especially the ones that disappear over the rear subframe. :thumb:
 
@MrGreedy didn't you change out the aircon system in the W212? Any ideas? Thanks!
Hi Teddy,

Yes, I replaced the condenser on my W212.
I'm not recognising your photos, so I'll describe what I remember. Apologies for any errors in my mis-remembering, but here goes.

This was all done with the bumper off, so access was good! Don't try to DIY a condenser change with the bumper on is my advice!

The condenser sits between the intercooler and the radiator.
With all the undertrays off the car, you will get a reasonable view of what's going where.

Those metal and rubber joined pipes look like aircon pipes to me.

The condenser had a rubber/metal pipe near the top, probably driver's side, that was generally in good condition due to being up away from the road. It came away from the condenser with zero issues.

The condenser also has a pipe joining at the bottom passenger side of the condenser, coupled with the pressure sensor, and this goes up the side of the engine bay and connects into something I can't remember. Maybe the compressor or a junction with another bit of pipe. The good news is I recall this can be changed with relative ease with access from below to the condenser connection, and from above with the passenger side air box and gubbins fully removed. It's a little tight, but easily doable and I had no issues apart from not being able to see what you are doing once you put a tool and your hand in the way (but you can look easily before this, so easy to visualise and feel what you are doing). The bolt undid easily in this sheltered, dry engine bay location. This hose was about £50.
The bad news is, this hose corrodes a lot, especially down near the road/front of the car, and I had to pipe cutter it off the condenser to get the condenser out. The thread at the bottom of the condenser completely sheared. Good job I was changing the condenser and not just a pressure sensor!

So, I reckon if you remove the passenger airbox fully and the under trays, you should be able to positively confirm if this is the pipe. If you are going to change it, plan on using a pipe cutter, don't wear a watch as access is very tight, and plan on a new pressure sensor and Mahle condenser. Read my thread on that for a strong recommendation on which condenser to get.
 
Clean it with a wire/brass brush , treat it to a coating Vactan/Kurust etc . Paint it and hope for the best.

Or replace it.

PS . have a quick peek at your metal brake line pipes , especially the ones that disappear over the rear subframe. :thumb:
Yes, I do need the rear brake pipes done at some point according to the MOT. Fronts are OK!

I'll give it a go with the wire brush but I'm scared it'll go through! :eek:
 
Hi Teddy,

Yes, I replaced the condenser on my W212.
I'm not recognising your photos, so I'll describe what I remember. Apologies for any errors in my mis-remembering, but here goes.

This was all done with the bumper off, so access was good! Don't try to DIY a condenser change with the bumper on is my advice!

The condenser sits between the intercooler and the radiator.
With all the undertrays off the car, you will get a reasonable view of what's going where.

Those metal and rubber joined pipes look like aircon pipes to me.

The condenser had a rubber/metal pipe near the top, probably driver's side, that was generally in good condition due to being up away from the road. It came away from the condenser with zero issues.

The condenser also has a pipe joining at the bottom passenger side of the condenser, coupled with the pressure sensor, and this goes up the side of the engine bay and connects into something I can't remember. Maybe the compressor or a junction with another bit of pipe. The good news is I recall this can be changed with relative ease with access from below to the condenser connection, and from above with the passenger side air box and gubbins fully removed. It's a little tight, but easily doable and I had no issues apart from not being able to see what you are doing once you put a tool and your hand in the way (but you can look easily before this, so easy to visualise and feel what you are doing). The bolt undid easily in this sheltered, dry engine bay location. This hose was about £50.
The bad news is, this hose corrodes a lot, especially down near the road/front of the car, and I had to pipe cutter it off the condenser to get the condenser out. The thread at the bottom of the condenser completely sheared. Good job I was changing the condenser and not just a pressure sensor!

So, I reckon if you remove the passenger airbox fully and the under trays, you should be able to positively confirm if this is the pipe. If you are going to change it, plan on using a pipe cutter, don't wear a watch as access is very tight, and plan on a new pressure sensor and Mahle condenser. Read my thread on that for a strong recommendation on which condenser to get.
Thanks - not looking to change the condenser unless I have to! AC currently working fine. Everything is fine at the moment, although I do have the booster heater error which I'm guessing is unrelated.

I'll try to get better photos/video so that it's easier to recognise what/where we're looking.

I can remove the air intakes and the fan surround and hopefully get a better look.

It's funny, you cut down to just using one car to save on tax/insurance when not needing two... only to have to spend that money on repairs from leaving the car dormant (it was moved a little bit and on a trickle charger... but clearly not enough)
 
I can remove the air intakes and the fan surround and hopefully get a better look.
You shouldn't need to remove the fan surround. You should be able to see the aircon pipe at the bottom of the condenser if you just take the trays off.
If it's the one at the top, I think you just need to remove the slam panel to access. Maybe the grill? Can't quite recall.

Anyway, in amongst my ramblings, I think the main points are that rubber/metal joined pipes are likely aircon, and if you needed to replace one or both pipes, then plan on replacing the condenser and pressure sensor.

As per other advice, if no current issue I'd just give them a rub down with some super coarse scotch brite and then spray with e.g. ACP50, or slather some grease on.
 
Honestly . See my post #12 , do not start fiddling with the pipes and their connections , let sleeping dogs lie , My 153K 17 year old C55 AMG has similar pipe 'issues' LAST thing I will do is start pulling on them hoping to make things 'better' ...not going to end well.
 

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