I am lost for ideas... - Springs W124 300 TE

[Natew124]

Hey guys,

I changed the springs on my 1990 w124 300te recently. The previous owner had it lowered to the point where I would rub on speed bumps .
Problem now is that the car is sitting way way higher than it should, and I didn't even install the rubber pads... Feels more like a SUV. The parts aren't MB parts but the OEM number is the correct one (Sachs on front and meyle on rear, so reliable brands)

A buddy of mine has a friend working at mercedes and gave me following references for the springs according to my VIN number:
-Front springs: 124 321 21 04 + rubber mounts 201 321 1084 / 1184
-rear springs: 124 324 11 04 + rubber mounts 201 325 09 44 / 10 44

I have spent the past 2-3 weeks compiling documentation on springs for mercedes w124... I feel like I already checked the whole internet so I am giving it a go here.

So from my understanding:
-Each car has a basic set of points determined by the model number + the different options. Mine is a 124.090, automatic with AC (+ other stuff). Giving me 68 points front and 49 rear.
-This number of points gives you a combination of 8 different springs + rubber mounts (+ different sizes pads according to "red" or "blue")

--> Does anyone know how to check from here the correct spring reference ? Has any of you had the same issue before ? I still want to change them myself as I can't afford a MB repair x).

Thanks in advance !

 

[Numair Aidroos]

@W1ghty Any help for the w124 part search?

 

[Smiley]

This is quite a common problem with Mercedes springs - as you have found out there are multiple spring types for each model depending on the spec of the car. The advice is usually to go and buy your springs from MB - and then you get the right ones. The price is not too different from the likes of Sachs. Not what you want to hear after you have already bought and fitted the Sachs and Meyle - any reason why not one brand all the way round?

 

[alabbasi]

the level is not controlled by the springs on the wagon, it's controlled by the hydraulic struts and level valve. Is that set correctly?

 

[Natew124]

This is quite a common problem with Mercedes springs - as you have found out there are multiple spring types for each model depending on the spec of the car. The advice is usually to go and buy your springs from MB - and then you get the right ones. The price is not too different from the likes of Sachs. Not what you want to hear after you have already bought and fitted the Sachs and Meyle - any reason why not one brand all the way round?

Hey Thanks for your reply. I am just wondering if mercedes will actually quote me the right one... as the previous guy even showed me a screenshot of the references according to mercedes... so I might just get the wrong ones again or ? Maybe if I let them install it they will have an obligation to get the right fit but the cost rises quite badly.
I wanted Sachs all around as it's a brand I like a lot but they only had the good springs for the front...

 

[Natew124]

the level is not controlled by the springs on the wagon, it's controlled by the hydraulic struts and level valve. Is that set correctly?

The back hydraulics is set correctly as far as I am concerned. I strongly believe the springs push too high...

 

[alabbasi]

Young man, did you order non SLS springs for an SLS car? There is a few reasons why springs would sit too high.

1. They are incorrect (and I do not see how SLS and non SLS cars can have the same springs)
2. The pads could be too thick
3. The spring is not perched in the pad correctly
4. They need to settle

 

[Natew124]

Young man, did you order non SLS springs for an SLS car? There is a few reasons why springs would sit too high.

1. They are incorrect (and I do not see how SLS and non SLS cars can have the same springs)
2. The pads could be too thick
3. The spring is not perched in the pad correctly
4. They need to settle

View attachment 141466

hmmm well I ordered springs according to the references MB gave me. Indeed seems like it’s springs for the non-sls version and mine has sls.

Too thick pads can’t be an issue as they are not even installed… with them the car would be higher.

 

[ray_hennig]

Too thick pads can’t be an issue as they are not even installed… with them the car would be higher.

This doesn't sound healthy to me. Pads are installed for a reason.

When we changed the springs on mine, they all came from MB and were identified via the points system. All seems well.

You say that your springs came from Sachs and Meyle. Sachs may be OK, assuming they are of the correct spec. Meyle is not what I'd call a quality brand so, if these are on the back, and may be for non-SLS, I'd jusnk those and not go near Meyle again.

For me, MB is the only safe option, however, Sachs, Bilstein, H&R and Eibach may bay quality aftermarket parts but more difficult to get right.

Others may know better than I.

Good hunting.

RayH

 

[Petrol Pete]

On My 2006 AMG the front sprrings are printed with the part number , 3 pointed star , AMG logo , colour codes and the word 'Eibach' . So naturally one must assume MB are happy to have Eibach as OEM .

Post #3 . In my recent experience the price difference of rear springs from MB is that I was quoted (using my VIN) was double that of the same Sachs spring sourced elsewhere.

Sachs also supply springs to MB.

OP , If installing rear springs without the top pads surely you have metal to metal contact . I can't see that being a good idea.

 

[grober]

Index of /docs/mb/W124/spring_charts

https://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/124_coil_spring_specs.pdf

Mercedes springs originally came in two forms BLUE=LONG and RED =SHORT both had the same ratings - differences in ride height were supposed to be accommodated by spring pads of different thicknesses identified by the number of small pips on their edges,
one pip 8 mm, two 13 mm three 18 mm four 23 mm [note this doesn't translate directly into differences in ride height due to the lever amplification effect whereby the longer spring arm amplifies the pad differences] sounds as if you got a set of long springs OR springs that are incorrectly rated such that they don't compress as much under static load? If the previous owner lowered the cars suspension they almost certainly altered the rear ride height- hydraulically controlled as already stated- by adjusting the hydraulic control arm unit which is bolted to the rear antiroll bar IIRC so you may have to alter that

 

[grober]

One way to test the rear self-levelling suspension is to get the engine warmed up and running. Check the ride height- then put couple hundred weight bags in the rear luggage compartment- cement, sand, fertiliser bags, concrete blocks whatever-- the hydraulic suspension should maintain the ride height if it's working correctly.

 

[alabbasi]

As far as what you wrote regarding the level being correct. I suspect that it's not. IIRC, the height control valve gets its level input from being connected to the sway bar. If new springs were added, it would move the arm and the control valve would adjust the struts accordingly. If you made no adjustments after replacing the springs, it would be naturally off.

 

[Natew124]

When replacing the springs the mechanic set the “0” of the valve according to the level the car was at naturally with the springs and no weight… I guess I wouldn’t be able to drop it down any further or ? These dampers don’t press down as such they only press more or less strongly upwards right ?

 

[alabbasi]

When replacing the springs the mechanic set the “0” of the valve according to the level the car was at naturally with the springs and no weight… I guess I wouldn’t be able to drop it down any further or ? These dampers don’t press down as such they only press more or less strongly upwards right ?

Well. are you saying what with the struts removed, the ride height remains at the same level?

 

[Natew124]

Well. are you saying what with the struts removed, the ride height remains at the same level?

Id have to crawl under my car and see what happens when I manually play with the lever. But you’re right it shouldn’t be so. Another post above mentioned that I might have springs for wagons without SLS. That might be the culprit.

 

[alabbasi]

Yep, that was also me. Don't crawl under the and mess with the height control valve. Get it on a 4 post lift so you don't crush yourself. Think about whoever has to explain this at your funeral

 

[Natew124]

Yep, that was also me. Don't crawl under the and mess with the height control valve. Get it on a 4 post lift so you don't crush yourself. Think about whoever has to explain this at your funeral

haha you're right. On the other hand the current springs are so high I don't think SLS actually has a real influence...