Idelling really rough

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Tranj

New Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2018
Messages
9
Location
London
Car
W123 230ce 1985 coupe
hi every one got my W123 230ce about a month ago and it broke down two days after I got it , fuel distributor was cleaned/refurbed so the Machanic told me , the only thing he done was get it started , but now it’s just really rough when idelling it feels like it’s gona konk out any min and it does sometimes
I need some one to recommend a old school Machanic that knows about these engines and how to tune them , I’m in Gants Hill,London,outskirts of Essex
Please help
 
I'm guessing you don't want to drive it too far then. Have you tried any mobile mechanics, preferably old enough to remember these cars when they were still plentiful? It looks like the nearest M-B specialist to you is Gem-Tech near Gallows Corner, but it seems as though they focus on modern cars though.
 
Hi Tranj and welcome to the forum . W123 was one of the best Mercedes built . Now look for an auto electrician to come and put his gear on the electronic side of your engine and to check it out first .Then you can rule out the electric side and concentrate on the fuel side . You can purchase a spark tester you just put it on the ht lead as the engine is running,, if it misses you will see it in the tester Must say the injection parts are complicated .The fuel distributor re seal is a specialist job . But you could look at the fuses in the fuse box remove one at a time ,clean the tips of them and refit . If your not sure take a camera and take a picture of the fuses before you start. If plastic with white metal tips they need replacing with ceramic and brass or copper ends . Then clean sall the earth points up after removing them ,replace with a dab of grease .This way you wont need to look at them again for years . Another good check is go and start the car in the dark ,then look for tracking -like blue flashes from one electrical item to another . Let us know how you get on .
 
Tranj, do you work on your own cars? Did you get any paperwork with the car showing work done?

When I buy an old car I always change the distributor cap, rotor arm, sparks plugs and ignition leads. If you get them from carparts4less.co.uk (part of Euro Car Parts) the cost should be very reasonable. It's always worth considering replacing the coil as well. That lot will hopefully cost you less £100.

I agree about the comments on changing the fuses for ceramic ones with brass or copper filaments, but they only seem to be available from the USA (via eBay), even though they are made in Germany by Flosser. I recently bought a load and am changing the fuses in all my cars. In the meantime, cleaning the contacts is a really good idea - aluminium reacts adversely with the brass contacts in the fusebox, especially after 30 years!

One point to bear in mind in relation to the fuel system is that there is probably a small filter in the coupling that attaches the fuel line from the pump to the fuel distribution head. I have only just discovered this on my C126, which I am in the process of replacing this weekend, along with other work.

This is the old one, on the left, against the new one:
P1040666.JPG
Hopefully the difference is obvious! The cost is about £6. On my car there are three of these fittings, but only one has a filter, so you need to quiz your local M-B dealer carefully to make sure you get the right part.
 
You need an 'old boy' for this, not a 'parts swapper lad'.
I'm just a few miles away in E4, I'll ask my mate in the next street who he uses locally to service his C123 280CE
 
Some dont have the filter so best to check before you purchase one . And fuses can be picked up of ebay thats where mine came frrom .Also another good place is the boat chandelers if you have one close to you . Good idea to pull the idle control valve and clean it out with white spirits dont put it in to a container but just fill it up and shake it .I left mine overnight this is the part to remove .see picture M102_910 intake manifold air idle control valve 0001412225.jpg . All proventative maqintenance . Just mind you replace the rubber hoses after ,it may be hard but you can do it...And as Howard a said the electrics are the first port of call ..in a situation like yours .. I had a problem like this on both W123 and W124 and each time it was just one plug lead breaking down .
 
Read the OP again!
He wants a mechanic, not various DIY advice, or he'd have said so.
 
Perhaps Tranj would like to comment at this point.
 
a11r looks like you have no information to give, so why bother .Allways some one that is ready to pipe up with a negative . Is it that your close to him and volunteer to help op? . We are here to help others and encourage them to have a go . If i took my cars to the garage every time they had a hickup , i would no nothing by now.
 
An aggressive, defensive reply there from 'Optimus / Dreamer'.
Why so? I help out plenty of people on both MB forums.

It was obvious "from the words the OP wrote", that he is not trying to fix it himself, thus my reply to him about a mechanic who can.
And you saw that as being negative, because it was contrary to your post, perhaps.
 
a111r Sorry i just jumped in after your post . Just wanted to give the op an idea that he might try to do some things for himself .But if it is that the op wants to have the garage do every job that comes up its up to him . Abd could have said so adfter my first post, but chose not to.. And yes it is optimusprime on this forum
 
OK.. so Highams Park Motor Company, E4 are good for our old beasts.
Also the South East Corvette Centre (!!) E4 also get top reviews, locally.
They're about four miles from Gants Hill.

The chap I know from Gants, Harry, always used Terry @ Wayne Gates (but that's in Harrow).
 
great advice from you all , to save money I’ll try Optimusprimes advice first and if it doesn’t work , then may be I’ll tty the Machanic
 
Good for you .And the tips that you see above are maintenance items to keep it trouble free . If your not sure,then return and post again on to this one .
 
Hi all , I’ve got the car running perfect I think!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,now idelling when in drive and with foot on the brake at around 600 rpm when in neutral it’s about 900 it doesn’t feel like it’s going to stall now,
Does that sound about right ?
It was the idel control valve which I took off and cleaned and changed plugs that did the job , not sure if it’s at tempry fix though !!!, I’ve been using the car all day today and it feels great when in traffic or at traffic lights ,
Found it to be a bit thirsty though is that normal for 230ce ?
I’m just compairing the consumption to my brand new 420d
 
Well done, and thanks to @optimusprime for the suggestion. Much easier and cheaper than getting the ICV rebuilt or replaced.

In my experience all old cars are thirsty compared to the modern cars, but then we don't but old cars with economy as a primary factor. It's more about driving involvement, the challenge/fun of keeping it running, and having something that stands out in the car park.
 
tranj are you glad you sorted your car out yourself? You do get a nice feeling of satisfaction in the end .Much better than spending cash by having it done by the garage . But some jobs can be out of our scope . Then you look for the old time garage mechanic to talk to. And 70% of modern garages to-day have no knowledge of our older type Mercedes cars . Howerd , thanks for the thumbs up .Good luck .
 
I’m glad I did it my self , I’m getting to know the car personally now , rather then just drop it to a Machanic and hope hes giving you a honest opinion on what’s wrong with the car , this site has been a valuable source ,I’m sure I can tackle most problems now lol (wishful thinking )
Thank you for the confidence
 
Tranj we will meet again on the foum . You know now what to do, you ask on the forum first , members will help you .But you need to fill in your profile so other members can look at a glance and tell the year , engine type . Or put the information in you post . Good luck with your W123 . Best car Mercedes ever made by the way.
 

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