intake manifolds, oil cooler seals

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unclebuck

Active Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
338
Car
CLS 320 /08
Had a quick go through the limited service info i have got with the car, saw nothing relating to these. I have decided when the weather is going to be good for a few days to take time off work and take the intake manifolds off and get them cleaned ( vapour blasted) also fit new swirl flap arms ( the new aluminium ones) a new swirl motor and also new oil cooler seals and glow plugs.

I will have all the replacement gaskets, seals etc required ready, on average how long has it taken other members to do this? reason I am asking is so I know how long to book off work to get it done ;) .
I am more than competent to do the job and to be honest looking forward to doing it and ticking another thing off my list.

Any info, advice or general hints or tips most welcome!!

Thanks again
 
Taking your time, I would suggest an easy day to strip, and another easy day to reassemble.
Obviously finding the vapour blaster will extend the total job time, but that's not time you would need.
If you do find a vapour blaster, I'd be really interested to know where it was, how much it cost, and if they wanted you to basically get the manifolds very clean before they would even take them.

I've also read you should get new bolts etc all around the exhaust area, rather than re-use. A lot of garages will re-use, but if I was doing it myself (and I looked into this a LOT) then I would get new.

There's a fair bit on this forum that should see you most of the way there.
Links with useful bits and pieces that are not on this site.

 
Taking your time, I would suggest an easy day to strip, and another easy day to reassemble.
Obviously finding the vapour blaster will extend the total job time, but that's not time you would need.
If you do find a vapour blaster, I'd be really interested to know where it was, how much it cost, and if they wanted you to basically get the manifolds very clean before they would even take them.

I've also read you should get new bolts etc all around the exhaust area, rather than re-use. A lot of garages will re-use, but if I was doing it myself (and I looked into this a LOT) then I would get new.

There's a fair bit on this forum that should see you most of the way there.
Links with useful bits and pieces that are not on this site.

Thanks for the info, i have seen the id parts kit. I was planning on replacing everything.

While the manifolds and turbo are off, I will also be replacing the turbo cartridge as the vanes have a little damage tothe edges, the turbo is solid, no movement or issues. Have had a low boost pressure on my obd, so I am also replacing all the intercooler pipes and seals, also after cleaning the egr pipes and the throttle assembly valve i am waiting for the replacement seals for those also.

All the sensors that needed replacing are now done, and i had my glow plugs replaces at Price Bros Auto Engineering in Bristol done the other week.

As it stands it just :

turbo cartridge
new intercooler pipes, seals etc
exhaust manifold removal and clean fit new upgraded link arms
oil cooler seals, (not leaking just preventative)

Thats it then everything has been done ( i am toying with having the injectors cleaned out or replaced)

Re: the vapour blasting

The place i will be using is here, shows examples of their work.

 
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Managed to grab a pic of the turbo today, There is no movement side to side, spins freely, the actuator arm moves freely when I turn the key on and off.

It looks like at some time something hit the vanes and did that damage to the edges, just not all of them.

The bat wing needs to be replaced as the rubber ends have split and the plastic cracked on the turbo mount.

I am looking for a new cartridge at the moment, i have seen some on ebay but not sure about quality, I am mechanically competant so rebuilding it is fine ( something to do over a long weekend)

I am replacing both intercooler pipes, seals etc, I have already done the green "o" ring seal on the aluminium pipe from the turbo.
going to pull the front egr pipe off again, and the throttle housing pipe it goes into etc and do all of those seals as well, basically anything that is linked to the turbo for the boost i will replace.

Pretty convinced the swirl flap arms need sorting out and the inlet manifolds cleaned, first thing the car is a little sluggish but upto temp and it boosts away fine.
perhaps sticky swirl flaps, I have ordered a couple of 4.7k resistors, ( didnt have any in work) will try it without the egr for acouple of days, if its fine, then its all comeing off for a clean and service, the swirl flap connector area is clean as is the connector and socket.

if anyone knows where i can get the right cartridge for my turbo from it would be appreciated. pic of the plate as well.

thanks.
 

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Wow , big job buddy , I’m certainly looking forward to the write up and how much gunk you have in the manifolds especially as I have the same engine on 110k now .
I took my front egr pipe off the other week and thought it was maybe only showing a slight restriction (15%?) , i would like to know how that translates into the state of the inlet manifolds though .
Like everyone with an om642 we all have an eye out for an oil cooler leak :) .
Are you going to fit a new oil cooler as well ?
Your turbo vanes look like a right dogs dinner :eek:
 
Wow , big job buddy , I’m certainly looking forward to the write up and how much gunk you have in the manifolds especially as I have the same engine on 110k now .
I took my front egr pipe off the other week and thought it was maybe only showing a slight restriction (15%?) , i would like to know how that translates into the state of the inlet manifolds though .
Like everyone with an om642 we all have an eye out for an oil cooler leak :) .
Are you going to fit a new oil cooler as well ?
Your turbo vanes look like a right dogs dinner :eek:
mine is also at 110k, did you take the front throttle body and the plastic pipe off as well to clean them? i did the whole lot in one go.

The turbo is fine, nothing is rubbing no sideways movement just those couple of edges its ok otherwise however, its prudent to just sort it out.

I plan on taking a couple of days off to do the manifolds, a good day to drain the coolant a little i also saw the two mounting bars from "the clay way" videos online, got the measurements and made some to link the manifolds together when it goes back together and fitting onto the car again.

Lots of seals and a complete kit for refitting, as for the oil cooler i may replace it, I have seen one removal video and when off they put an engineers straight over the plate and it was slightly concave, so i may fit a new one, depends what the cost at the time.

when the turbo is off i can check the swirl flap arms before anything else comes off, get the newer type ordered up also.

no oil leaks from my cooler yet but its just a matter of time i guess.

lots to do, but if i take my time and do it carefully all should be good! ( famous last words!!)
 
Because I had the garage doing my cooler seals, as well as a new swirl flap motor, I opted for a new genuine oil cooler. The rationale being I'm spending the best part of £900, so if something leaks again relatively soon afterwards (with 2 years), having had Merc parts fitted by a recognised independent specialist, Merc would re-do the job under their new parts guarantee. Gives me a bit of piece of mind.
If you're doing it yourself, aftermarket coolers are about £50 from memory, so might be worth looking at those?

I didn't mention how crudded up my manifolds were at 86k miles.
They were not dissimilar to the photo shown on the idpartsblog link I added in post #2, with more crud at one end (entry) and almost clean at the other. Not too bad considering some of the photos I've seen posted on this forum. Obviously the photo in that blog doesn't have the swirl flaps on whatever engine that is, and it looks a little different to my manifolds, so possibly not the OM642?
 
Because I had the garage doing my cooler seals, as well as a new swirl flap motor, I opted for a new genuine oil cooler. The rationale being I'm spending the best part of £900, so if something leaks again relatively soon afterwards (with 2 years), having had Merc parts fitted by a recognised independent specialist, Merc would re-do the job under their new parts guarantee. Gives me a bit of piece of mind.
If you're doing it yourself, aftermarket coolers are about £50 from memory, so might be worth looking at those?

I didn't mention how crudded up my manifolds were at 86k miles.
They were not dissimilar to the photo shown on the idpartsblog link I added in post #2, with more crud at one end (entry) and almost clean at the other. Not too bad considering some of the photos I've seen posted on this forum. Obviously the photo in that blog doesn't have the swirl flaps on whatever engine that is, and it looks a little different to my manifolds, so possibly not the OM642?
If i replace the oil cooler it will be a genuine merc part, rather fit that, as for the turbo if i cannot find a good cartridge anywhere then i will use Turbo Technics for the rebuild. Used them before and I trust them totally.

I wish I had a garage as this would make things so much easier to do, my driveway is sloped downwards to the kerb and gated so It will go in back first, makes draining the coolant from the manifold easier then! Will have to use wifeys car for a couple of days if needed.
 
mine is also at 110k, did you take the front throttle body and the plastic pipe off as well to clean them? i did the whole lot in one go.

The turbo is fine, nothing is rubbing no sideways movement just those couple of edges its ok otherwise however, its prudent to just sort it out.

I plan on taking a couple of days off to do the manifolds, a good day to drain the coolant a little i also saw the two mounting bars from "the clay way" videos online, got the measurements and made some to link the manifolds together when it goes back together and fitting onto the car again.

Lots of seals and a complete kit for refitting, as for the oil cooler i may replace it, I have seen one removal video and when off they put an engineers straight over the plate and it was slightly concave, so i may fit a new one, depends what the cost at the time.

when the turbo is off i can check the swirl flap arms before anything else comes off, get the newer type ordered up also.

no oil leaks from my cooler yet but its just a matter of time i guess.

lots to do, but if i take my time and do it carefully all should be good! ( famous last words!!)
I just took this front egr pipe off
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Having changed the OM642 oil cooler seals i know what fun you'll be having :cool: tbh its not too complex there's just lots of parts to remove. My oil cooler looked fine so i just replaced the seals with the updated purple ones.

Cleaning the intake manifold is well worth it, drove like a new engine once i got the gunk out! One of my flaps was bent due to the amount of crud but all was sturdy with it so i straightened it out.

15k miles later all still good
 

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Having changed the OM642 oil cooler seals i know what fun you'll be having :cool: tbh its not too complex there's just lots of parts to remove. My oil cooler looked fine so i just replaced the seals with the updated purple ones.

Cleaning the intake manifold is well worth it, drove like a new engine once i got the gunk out! One of my flaps was bent due to the amount of crud but all was sturdy with it so i straightened it out.

15k miles later all still good
I have a lot of parts to get hold of before i take it all apart and book some time off work to do it. Hopefully get some good photos and document it step once the manifolds are off i can give that area a good clean, i am going to cut come covers for everything so that nothing gets in. Also I am going to design and print some cutom scrapers and gunk removers, stops to take them out of the ports as well. I have a carbon nylon 3d printer so i can design them in solidworks and print them out over night. use a cheap vacuum to clear it as i go. The second picture from the left showing the build up in the prots is what I am reffering to, cleaning that crap out from there also.

If the tools work out fine i will share the stl/step files for anyone to print out.

The ports/head covers i can machine out of some delrin i have on my small cnc machine to cover them properly, then i can have a real good cleaning session in there cleaning the sides etc.

I have started compiling all the parts into a list and am ticking each one off as it arrives, I need to get a new bat wing now as the tube section finally shattered on me yesterday, also the concetena sections each end have split and have a hole in one side, I did notice that they are far too short , a little longer in the design would have been better.

thanks for all the info and pics , everything helps, getting prepared before i tackle the jobs.
 
I'm in the process of doing mine although mines a v8 the amount of crud was unbelievable. Waiting for seals and gasket for top cover re-using the manifold ones. My oil cooler is a slightly different shape.
Cleaned up the manifold with de-greaser and maybe try some mister muscle just to make sure.
My motor stills works but seems weak on return, So am replacing that, Again its not the same as v6 models. But getting that through work so will be a bit cheaper.
 
I have decided when the weather is going to be good for a few days to take time off work and take the intake manifolds off and get them cleaned (vapour blasted)

To minimise the down time on my car, I sourced some second hand manifolds and EGR cooler from ebay and cleaned them all up myself so the fitting garage could do a straight swap on the ramps. You will have the luxury of time to re-use your manifolds after cleaning.
The manifolds from my car are currently for sale on here (not pushing the sale as obviously not the exact same engine), so you can see how clean I have managed to get them with 6 cans of carb cleaner, a very stiff toothbrush and a bottle brush with a metal bendy handle so I could easily agitate the inside of the worst manifold whilst soaked with EGR cleaner (which is now the one that looks the cleanest, and the photo showing the internal surface which is lit by a torch looks very clean). They could be cleaned up further with more brushing and more carb cleaner, but after 6 cans, I lost interest in getting them perfect as they won't be going back on my car.


The finish on the outside looks least like new. That is the bit I would expect to really benefit from the vapour blasting 👍
 
This turbo intake repair kit may interest you
 
This turbo intake repair kit may interest you
Thank you and a useful reminder so just pressed the button on this - you just know it will break at the wrong time because they become so brittle when you need the car
 
This turbo intake repair kit may interest you
i was due to get one however its the gators each side that have also got holes and tears in so there is air seal there to the airboxes. So its a replacement for that, will get a new one as all the second hand ones i have found so far are all just as bad.
 
I'm sure I saw a thread on the forum a couple of days ago linking to an aftermarket batwing that also came with 2 new MAF sensors for around £250, from eBay.

Can't find it for the life of me.
 
I'm sure I saw a thread on the forum a couple of days ago linking to an aftermarket batwing that also came with 2 new MAF sensors for around £250, from eBay.

Can't find it for the life of me.
 
i have one in my ebay box for £189, thanks for the link. it has to be changed so its the first thing i will do along with the intercooler seals and pipes.

Thanks for all the info guys, it really is appreciated.

 

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