intake manifolds, oil cooler seals

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Update:

It has been a hard couple of days work on the car, I have to be honest I doubted my capabilities many times and woke up very sore everyday however, I perservered and spent my free time in the evening studying every source of information i could.

I must be clear that I did not clean out the inlet ports on the heads, I was not comfotable doing that, in the new year the car will be going to a specialist who can walnut blast the inlet ports for me.

First thing to go back on was the oil cooler, I gave this a good clean and rubbed down the mating face before fitting the seals, I also bought a full set of new T27 torx bolts rather than use the old one's again.

Once that was back in i then worked on the manifolds.

The X8r kit came with the two link arms and the inserts and retainer clips for both sides.

1. With the arm mounting cleaned i put some high temp grease in the mount before fitting the insert, not the insert is stepped on one side, this is the side that goes into the arm mount.

2. With the inserts fitted I then greased the other sides before fitting the link arm.

3. With the link arm fitted I then pushed the inserts in until they clicked and locked in as shown in the pictures.
 

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Update:

Next step was to fit the manifolds to the car, I got a copy of the Torque pattern and Nm required.

I purchased a full set of new bolts for the manifolds to replace the old ones, New gaskets for both manifolds and also for the thermostat.

1. Gasket fitted to manifolds

2. The exhaust heat exhanger/cooler was refitted with a new gasket and new bolts following the torque specs and the new pipe o'ring was also fitted

3. Coolant temp sensor refitted to manifold, I cleaned the socket and the sensor before refitting

4. The thermostat gasket was replaced, the old one was now old, stiff and very flat.

5. The coolant link pipe was fitted on the manifolds prior to installing.
 

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Update:

1. Manifolds fitted and torqued following the pattern and settings for Nm

2. Oil Turret fitted with new gasket and torqued down to 20Nm as per specifications new bolts used.

3. Swirl flap motor fitted, I cable tied the arm forward, this made it easier to connect the drivers side arm first, cut the cable tie then the passenger side was easy to clip on then also.

4. I had a full set of new turbo gaskets and bolts again, I placed the two triangular gaskets on the exhaust mounts and the new rear turbo gasket, egr pipe gaskets and bolts also
 

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Update:

With the turbo back on it was just conencting the fuel rails, loom and the front throttle flap/egr pipe assy

1. Fit the from throttle flap/egr pipe assy to the manifolds

2. Fit the fuel rail ink and the fuel rail drivers side and link pipes to the injectors following the torque specs

3. Double check everything!!!!! very important

4. Green turbo pipe seal new fitted
 

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Update:

Spent time going over everything checking it was all tightened down correctly, everything plugged in.

I also fitted a new inlet air temp sensor as well as one of the lock arms on the old one had broken off.

The coolant had to be re topped up, there was still some in the engine so we rolled the car down the drive onto a level section and left it an hour to settle.
I then poured coolant in along with reccomended parts of water. The fuel pump relay was taken out and the turbo was primed with oil by turning it over 6 times without starting.

The Fuel pump relay was refitted and the car started and left to idle with the air con and heat on full.

With the car heating up i squeezed the thermostat to radiator pipe to burp air out, once the thermostat opened it would self bleed through the over flow pipe , I still checked the level afterwards and topped it up. I will be repeating this tomorrow.

Here is the finished article.
 

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I have enjoyed learning how to do this and wish I had the time at the beginning to get this deep into repairing the car, I would have had time to organise getting the inlet ports blasted ( i found out the it is a service that Mercedes do on the diesel engines, there is even a video about it on you tube )

Will I return to a main dealer for a service, diagnostics again?? no not on your nelly it will be an independent merc specialist from now on.

Am I going to keep on working on the car as and when I need to? yes there is more to learn!!

Whats next? I need to get the car up, take the undertrays off and give it a bloody good clean underneath where the oil probably sprayed about also I have a brand new set of front discs and pads that have been waiting to be put on, might do those on the weekend.

I have many more photos that I didn't include in the thread, its hard deciding what to put up, but if there is something you need a closer pic of or explanation let me know and I will add it.

There we go..

UB
 
I have enjoyed learning how to do this and wish I had the time at the beginning to get this deep into repairing the car, I would have had time to organise getting the inlet ports blasted ( i found out the it is a service that Mercedes do on the diesel engines, there is even a video about it on you tube )

Will I return to a main dealer for a service, diagnostics again?? no not on your nelly it will be an independent merc specialist from now on.

Am I going to keep on working on the car as and when I need to? yes there is more to learn!!

Whats next? I need to get the car up, take the undertrays off and give it a bloody good clean underneath where the oil probably sprayed about also I have a brand new set of front discs and pads that have been waiting to be put on, might do those on the weekend.

I have many more photos that I didn't include in the thread, its hard deciding what to put up, but if there is something you need a closer pic of or explanation let me know and I will add it.

There we go..

UB

fantastic write-up. Is the engine running well now?
 
What impresses me is not just that you have got on and done it (outside in November) but that you have kept detailed photo records along the way; well done.
Out of interest do you know how much you have spent on parts?
 
Update:

I have to be the bearer of bad news, the car went into limp mode this morning. There is nothing in the turbo vacuum loop that has not been cleaned, fitted with new gaskets or seals. The only two parts not replaced are the egr valve and the intercooler.


However, I am not stressed or upset I have looked at solutions. I am taking the car to Avantgarde in Clevedon soon and they will go through it for me on a Star system.

I had a good chat with Steve the owner today and it is possible it could be the egr sticking but not giving out a code. I am not worried as a new egr isn't expensive.

Other than that the car does respond totally differently now.

I wish it was better news, knowing my luck it will be something really simple in the end, or something I have missed.

More to follow!!!!!!

The thread is not over yet!!!!

Quote: If at first you don't succeed keep going, don't give in, then take it to an Indy 😜
 
It is still the same P0299 underboost code incase you are wondering, there is no other code present that my obd2 reader can find. Could even be the ecm that's gone wierd.
 
Update:

i have the egr valve off and I am checking it over now.
 
Update:

i have the egr valve off and I am checking it over now.

This must be so frustrating for you after all the effort you have put in. I have my fingers crossed for you that the solution is found quickly and at minimum expense. You deserve a bit of good luck.
 
Update:

Right .... Sneaky bast*ard number 2 found!!!

The egr valve randomly binds, the hook part to the mechanism sticks against the metal of the "U" section under the bearing, the valve rotates slightly back and fore and it seems to catch on the edge.

In the pic you can see the rubbing on the side of the hook face, needless to say a new egr valve has been ordered. On pic stuck egr two you can see 3 spots on the right hand side bottom of the hook where it has dug into the face/side

This is the valve stuck open, it sticks in various places and it takes some force and rotating the valve stem to free it, I even put some grease on there to see if it would help and it still randomly bound.

I have it working better for now but still it's getting changed.

Will this solve the issue???? I have no idea however, it is still going onto Avantguarde for a complete check up.

Oh well, there we go, it is the original valve.

UB
 

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Last edited:
Update:

Right .... Sneaky bast*ard number 2 found!!!

The egr valve randomly binds, the hook part to the mechanism sticks against the metal of the "U" section under the bearing, the valve rotates slightly back and fore and it seems to catch on the edge.

In the pic you can see the rubbing on the side of the hook face, needless to say a new egr valve has been ordered. On pic stuck egr two you can see 3 spots on the right hand side bottom of the hook where it has dug into the face/side

This is the valve stuck open, it sticks in various places and it takes some force and rotating the valve stem to free it, I even put some grease on there to see if it would help and it still randomly bound.

I have it working better for now but still it's getting changed.

Will this solve the issue???? I have no idea however, it is still going onto Avantguarde for a complete check up.

Oh well, there we go, it is the original valve.

UB
That egr dismantle is interesting , I haven’t ever seen one apart before . When I remove mine yearly I just spray clean the exposed bits to get the carbon off , I’ll have to strip mine down now .
 

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