Is 1 bottle (125ml) of Diamondbrite enough for the whole car?

swl

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I bought the Diamondbrite from mercmanuk. It came in stage 1 (125ml) and Stage 2 (125ml). Hubby wants to know if the 2 bottles is enough to do the whole car. I would appreciate it if someone can confirm that is all he needs.

Reading the instructions for stage 1, it said use a soft cloth or fine spray gun? Any suggestion as to which is better ie. cloth or spray gun. If cloth, roughly how much to apply so that it is enough for the whole car?

Thanks.

swl
 

pepe

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I put the stage 1 in a spray gun. its more economical and the coverage is better. Ive still got a little bit left of both after doing my c class. prob enough to do the bonnet again.
 

sportyreptile

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I did my E280 with the 125ml bottles and cloth, was just enough. The stage 1 stuff just did it, had some of the stage 2 stuff left over.

I found that you work the stage 1 fluid in long straight lines, this leaves a matt finish, then apply stage 2 over the top leaving it for little while. Buff off in straight line motion again. I worked from front to back in the direction of airflow, perhaps this is a bit ott but the result were good.

P.S......have plenty of clean lint free cloth, no use rubbing in polish with a dirty cloth.
 
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swl

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Thanks guys for your replies. :bannana:

sportyreptile said:
P.S......have plenty of clean lint free cloth, no use rubbing in polish with a dirty cloth.

Any recommendations (Name and price) as to where I can buy some lint free cloth? Hubby wants to make sure he has all the right tools for the job. :rolleyes:
 

guydewdney

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old pure cotton t shirts i find work well - being a spectacles wearer - lint free is quite important...- the polishing cloths you get from opticians are carp - bits of yellow fluff everywhere... and they are supposed to be lint free....

if no old t shirts availible - any good motorists shop...?
 

sym

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Autoglym perfect polishing cloths (halfords) are pretty good . . . . just give them a good shake out, somewhere well away from the car, before you use them , to get rid of all the loose / stray bits of cotton thread.

S.
 

mercmanuk

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there is more than enough to do an average merc.the ml is a tight squeeze.remember the diamondbrite is a sealer not a polish so there is no need to rub like a polish just wipe over to give the white haze.ive always used a cloth never a spray gun.
 

portzy

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swl said:
Thanks guys for your replies. :bannana:



Any recommendations (Name and price) as to where I can buy some lint free cloth? Hubby wants to make sure he has all the right tools for the job. :rolleyes:

swl, do what I do. Get into one of those ex-catalogue shops and buy some Egyptian cotton hand towels/flannels you can pick up each of them for about £2/£1 round where I come from. Get a dark colour, navy blue? ;) , put them through your washer to get rid of any excess dye and away you go. Very little lint, if any! I say dark colour I dont suppose it really matters but if you intend using them on the interior at all and thats dark as well then thats your best bet. I've found that because there is some depth to the material anything abrasive etc gets pushed up into it away from contact with the paint :)
 

Dieselman

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Terry towel is Meguires suggested cloth.

They are dead cheap at Costco and are bulk packed.
 

Goldfish11

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Full Instructions from Valeter

I got some instructions from a Car Valeter who supplies Diamondbrite. His tip was to get a car sponge and cut it in half. Use this to apply the Diamondbrite.

Here are his full instructions (Good job my typing speed is OK).

Hope this helps.

1) Ensure car is clean and dry. The car does not need to be polished prior to application of diamondbrite. If the paoint work is slightly scratched or oxideised then diamondbrite cut back (or similiar cuttling compound) should be applied in the first instance. This is available either separately in the form of a 5 litre or 250 ml container or as part of the Diamonbrite used car kit DB 06.

2) Apply diamondbrite pre-glaze (stage 1) sparingly, section by section using a soft clean cloth or fine spray gun. Ensure all exposed metal surfaces are treated including door seals and exposed metal surfaces on the inside of the tail gate / boot lid.

3) Allow to dull until appearance has gone milky. The time this takes depends on humidity but should take no longer than 10 minutes. DO NOT remove the Stage 1 yet.

4) Apply diamondbrite glaze (stage 2) over the dulled pre-glaze (stage 1) section by section using a clean cloth in STRAIGHT LINES (not circular motion). Applying or removing stage 2 in a circular motion will result in swirl marks particularly on dark coloured cars. Do not us a buffing machine. Use only slight pressure.

5) Leave for 10 to 15 minutes and then remove with a soft clean cloth (in straight lines where possible)

6) Diamondbrite stage 1 and 2 can also be applied to chrome and rubber.

Tips

"I normally use sponges to put on Diamondbrite. Get a jumbo sponge and cut it in half. Use one half to apply stage 1 and the other to apply stage 2. Dont go mad with the stage 1 the more you put on the harder it is to remove. I would not use a spray bottle I tried this and it makes the job hard and it uses more stage 1. You wont use all of the stage 1 and stage 2. I normally get a few cars out of them."
 
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swl

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With such good instructions/tips, hubby should have no problems applying diamondbrite.

Thanks again to everyone. :bannana: :bannana:
 

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