Italy

[effbee584]

me and the wife want to sample all of the delights of Italy. Are there any secret places away from the beaten track that you'd recommend? All input greatly received.

I assume you will be driving, if so, and you go through Switzeralnd, roughly Basel to Milan, you will have the choice of the Gottard Tunnel, (free and quick but 11 miles of boredom) or going over the pass itself if its open. Take the pass, terrific views coming down the Italian side.

Or you could bypass Switzerland (saving about £32 on their motorway pass), go south to the French/Italian Alps, avoid Mont Blanc and Frejus tunnels (pricey at 40 euro single), go south of them and look for the road from Besancon to Turin (spectacular).

Once in Italy, speaking some of the lingo will be appreciated (as it is everywhere) go off the main routes and explore, I've done it for 5 years now. It makes for a great holiday.

Its not a secret now, but just featured in Gino Di Campo's Italian food program, the restaurant in an extinct volcano near Naples looks worth a trip.

The excellent series that travels around Italy by Francesco da Mosto has just been shown on BBC, much of it is about Italian Art,but a good show to pick up some information.

IMO Italy is the best Euroland country to visit.

 

[IanA2]

I love Venice, small enough to get around with loads of shops and away from St Marks Sq very reasonably priced and the area itself is pretty handy for Lake Como, Verona and Modena.

Agree, I used to live near to Venice and spent a lot of time there. Early Spring and Late Autumn were my favourite time to visit.

also heard that the train fares in Italy are very reasonable if you fancy touring around.

Very reasonable, very comfortable, and they run on time

PS miss Naples like the plague

I've visited Naples many times and rather like it, but I guess it's a bit Marmite.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Sicily is a great holiday destination - big enough to find lots to do, small enough that you don't get to miss many things in a short holiday. It also has a very distinctive cuisine that melds Italian with lots of arabic and western mediterranean influences. Before I post my recommendations on places to see, you must read the following books if you want to get a real insight into the place and its malignancies.

The Leopard by Guiseppe Tomasi de Lampedusa - a limpid and brilliant account of the fictional Prince of Salina (modelled to a certain extent on Lampedusa's own grandfather) at the time of the Risgorgimento, the rise of the Mafia, the control of the church and the profound malignancy of Sicilian society, best expressed in the cynical line that "everything needs to change for everything to stay the same".

A book more focussed on the Mafia but as a part of Sicilian history post war, Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb is well worth getting hold of, although there are numerous more detailed accounts of the Cosa Nostra itself, this embeds it into Sicilian society and life in a wider sense.

If you want to understand the incredible mediaeval history of Sicily (as manifest in the most glorious Norman cathedrals stuffed with Greek Mosaic), John Julius Norwich's the Normans in Sicily is a very easy read, a good story teller even if not a cutting edge historian.

 

[Deleted member 37751]

Judging by some of the replies, looks like I'm going to need a fair few visits!

Thanks for all the input so far, it's appreciated.

 

[s88]

Cheap flights out to Milan or Verona, hire a small car and do the lakes region, not forgetting a trip to Brescia.

I say small car as we took an upgrade to Volvo 60 and regretted it as the roads and tunnels seem quite narrow.

 

[effbee584]

Cheap flights out to Milan or Verona, hire a small car and do the lakes region, not forgetting a trip to Brescia.

I say small car as we took an upgrade to Volvo 60 and regretted it as the roads and tunnels seem quite narrow.

The above is indeed an excellent option.

The tunnels seem wider now, even in a CLS, than the first time, but I would suggest that a driver should not wear sunglasses or even photochromatic lenses to travel through them.

In a RH drive car, the driver has an advantage in driving kerbside, some of the mainland European tourist drivers are obviously very nervous and are a little too far out. V interesting when a Coach comes the other way, usually too fast!

Problem with Flight and Car rental is that be that 'Er indoors would be severely restricted as to clothing options, sure I could swing it though.

Anyway, its a great area to visit, however its done.

 

[Markjames]

We have just come back from a week at Malcesine on the edge of lake Garda. A couple of our friends got married in a castle just in the edge of the lake.
The town itself is quite small but well worth a visit and it has access to a cable car that goes up mount baldo to give some amazing views.

 

[st13phil]

Talking of car rental...

Be aware that in many places (not just big cities) secure overnight parking is expensive - typically €10+ / night - so if you're planning to rent a car you need to factor that in too.

 

[IanA2]

Sicily is a great holiday destination - big enough to find lots to do, small enough that you don't get to miss many things in a short holiday. It also has a very distinctive cuisine that melds Italian with lots of arabic and western mediterranean influences. Before I post my recommendations on places to see, you must read the following books if you want to get a real insight into the place and its malignancies.

The Leopard by Guiseppe Tomasi de Lampedusa - a limpid and brilliant account of the fictional Prince of Salina (modelled to a certain extent on Lampedusa's own grandfather) at the time of the Risgorgimento, the rise of the Mafia, the control of the church and the profound malignancy of Sicilian society, best expressed in the cynical line that "everything needs to change for everything to stay the same".

A book more focussed on the Mafia but as a part of Sicilian history post war, Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb is well worth getting hold of, although there are numerous more detailed accounts of the Cosa Nostra itself, this embeds it into Sicilian society and life in a wider sense.

If you want to understand the incredible mediaeval history of Sicily (as manifest in the most glorious Norman cathedrals stuffed with Greek Mosaic), John Julius Norwich's the Normans in Sicily is a very easy read, a good story teller even if not a cutting edge historian.

Good observations from Charles as usual. However don't read "Il Gattopardo" and become so enthused by Lampedusa's scribblings that you bounce off to Lampedusa itself. Currently it's a hell hole holding camp for illegals.

As a very rough guide, historically the west of Sicily is Arab influenced and the east Greek. Superb place. On my shortlist of places to live in the near future.

Finally, "everything needs to change for everything to stay the same". Cynical? Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose.

 

[tjamesbo]

Hi Lee Not Palermo or sicily but we did sorrento few years back it was a good base, we did vesuvius one day , capri another day , herculaeneum & pompei and then the Amalfi Coast finished off with a day cruise round the islands ischia etc with short stops on each and swimming off the boat .
If I went there again I'd definitely drive Lake Garda and The Stelvio down through france or germany and not being transported like cattle fodder in a Package airline.no contest as far as I'm concerned
The Italians are great tho I love the attitude traffic jam .... no problem lets make another lane . Traffic Lights .... OK for advice but brain tell me when its safe to go ( real quote ) they are definitely alive not dead
Boyd

 

[WG M-B]

Ha ha I love your feeling Sicily Lee!!! We have deep routed Sicilian ancestry. One of my distant cousins David salamone was a driver in the original Italian job !
Sicily is a melting pot of culture and an incredible place ( although I only speak from much younger experiences).
Costa nostra is a fantastic book IMO and the early chapters give a great insight into the birth of the mob. Hope you enjoy Italy wherever you choose to go fella!!!

 

[Deleted member 37751]

Ha ha I love your feeling Sicily Lee!!! We have deep routed Sicilian ancestry.

You've always struck me as a man of honour pal...

There was an Italian TV series on Sky Arts called 'il capo dei capi' that told the story of Toto 'The Beast' Riina and seeing that has made me even more determined to go...