• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

Jump Point

Keith11a

New Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2013
Messages
16
Car
Mercedes 320S
Evening all

I wonder if anyone can assist me in finding the "jump point" in an S320 long wheel base year 1993. To cut a very long story (previous thread!) short, I can't get into the boot and the battery is flat and is in the boot.

Thanks to those who have offered previous advice. The jump point doesn't seem to be under the bonnet but I have located something in the front passenger footwell that looks like it might be it. I attach a picture can anyone confirm that this is the jump point and advise where I should put the positive and negative leads (oooh er missus!).

Thanks

Keith
 
No its not but it will do.
Which ever is the heaviest or thickest cable in picture will go to the Positive + terminal on the car battery, to me that looks like the threaded bolt almost exactly in the centre of the picture right beside the Blue spot.

So put Positive+ (Red) to the bolt beside the Blue spot and Negative – to a good unpainted earth point like the passanger door hinge or the metal door latch/striker. Power will flow into the battery from your charger and the boot should open with the key fob or a switch on dash.

Don’t jump start the car from here but recharge the battery in the normal way.

Dec
 
I've connected my optimate to the leads as described and it's telling me that the battery is beyond charging it's so knackered.

Any other ideas for getting into the boot gratefully received.

Cheers

Keith
 
Can you not just connect a booster pack or another good battery across the jump terminals. Should then be able to get in the boot.
 
That optimate charger night be too smart for this job, a traditional cheap battery charger or another good battery as suggested above should still work, even if the car battery in the boot were absent or disconnected from the cars wiring, the remote fob should still unlock the boot once power is applied to the contacts

Dec
 
Connect another battery to the terminals with a set of jump leads then connect the charger to the same points it should trick the charger to start charging.


As for the boot you may need to get the lock drilled out if you have tried everything as per your previous thread.
 
Thanks guys

A huge "thank you" particularly to Dec. I connected a standard battery charger across the "pseudo" jump point (rather than the Optimate) and it's charged the battery really well, so I have been able to start the car and all the electronics seem to be working fine.
Unfortunately, I still can't get into the boot, so I think drilling the lock is the only option. :o(
Strange thing is that the electric boot handle is still out and there's no fault light coming up on the dash saying the boot is open (but perhaps that is because it isn't?!).
Does anyone know if the boot lock is interchangeable with any other model as I guess I will need to look on e-bay for a replacement lock.

Many thanks once again.

Keith
 
Not a good idea drilling the lock, the vacuum pump seems to be located under the rear seat… see here…Central locking vacuum problem, DS rear door stuck...tried blowing in the vacuum line - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum … if you can identify which vacuum tube goes to the boot lock then blowing air into it should open the boot.

If you detach the correct tube from the vacuum pump, that goes to the boot lock, put the end of it into your mouth and blow like Louis Armstrong the boot should open.

If this doesn’t work try taping a bicycle pump to the end of the vacuum tube and pump once very quickly.

This is actually how the boot is normally opened except it is air blown into the lock actuator, by the vacuum pump, that does the work.

Have you tried the key blade in the boot lock?

Dec

attachment.php
 
Last edited:
Thanks, I'll give it a try. The vacuum pump is working ok and all the other locks open. Yes, I tried the WD40 and the key blade and managed to snap the key in the lock! :o((
 
Hi Folks- I've given this a go with a car foot pump and took the pressure up to 40psi but with no effect. I've had the first aid kit tray and speaker covers out and it looks like I will have limited access to the boot but will need to cut the fabric of the boot lining. The hole will only be small but will I be able to unlock the boot from the inside and if so how? Do I need a coat hanger or similar to pull a wire on the lock? Basically, can you tell me what am I going to find once I have limited access to the boot? Thanks again. Keith
PS: I forgot to mention the boot lock light is flashing green when I press the fob button.
 
What position is the keyhole slot in on the boot lock… Horizontal or Vertical?

Dec
 
If blowing air thought the correct boot vacuum tube doesn’t work then the only other option is to try to fish out the remaining piece of key from the lock and then have a new key cut via your VIN number at the dealers, it remains to be seen, if you succeed, as to whether the new key blade will open the boot, without snapping.

The longer the piece of key is inside the lock the easier it would be to fish it out, you would need to modify a pair of tweezers so that the would be thin enough to go inside the lock barrel so as to pull the remains of the key out.

Failing the above, drilling the lock may well be the only way in.

Dec
 
Thanks Dec, your advice is much appreciated. Kind Regards - Keith
 
Keith, it sounds like perhaps the boot didn't latch properly in the first place - if the handle's out it would suggest that it should unlocked. If you've got the vacuum lines reconnected and the car's got power, have you tried locking and unlocking the car with your hand pressing the boot down? It's just a thought, may be worth trying if your only remaining option is drilling!
Perhaps even giving the surface of the barrel a few persuasive taps with a hammer - gently, obviously - again whilst locking and unlocking. Vibrations may help if it's not totally FUBAR.
If you've still got the broken key stump, you may be able to get the broken bit out with the help of superglue! It worked for me once before...
Best of luck mate.
 
Thanks - I did have a go with the superglue this afternoon but no luck. I tried pushing it down and unlocking but still no good. With other options closed, I finally drilled it. However, I'm still not in! I've drilled a very neat 11mm hole straight down the barrel and about 4cms deep and now the barrel turns right the way around but the boot lid still will not shift. Any ideas on next steps much appreciated.

Cheers

Keith
 
Thanks, that's useful. At least there appears to be a few out there when I do eventually get in! The first one looks the best fit as it has the green/amber sensor window.

Cheers

Keith
 
Best of luck, Keith. I had to drill out an ignition barrel on an R107 once for a customer, it was murder even with a pneumatic angled drill. They are not kidding about security.
Are you anywhere near Croydon? Happy to come round and scratch my chin thoughtfully at it! Sometimes works...
 
Thanks - I did have a go with the superglue this afternoon but no luck. I tried pushing it down and unlocking but still no good. With other options closed, I finally drilled it. However, I'm still not in! I've drilled a very neat 11mm hole straight down the barrel and about 4cms deep and now the barrel turns right the way around but the boot lid still will not shift. Any ideas on next steps much appreciated.

Cheers

Keith

Knowing which lock you have is useful, some close up pictures of your lock here… Trunk Key Lock Opening Release Button Infrared Remote S500 Mercedes Benz W140 | eBay

Are you able to continue drilling a bit further until you feel no resistance, about 50 to 60mm should do it.
The hole will need to be as straight as possible through the key hole slot.

Dec
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom