Kangaroo jumping with solution

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derekpayne

Active Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2011
Messages
78
Location
Torbay
Car
CLS 320 CDi 2008 "Facelift"
Hi,

I've had an intermittent fault with my CLS 320, where when I go to accelerate hard, the engine feels like it's cutting out repeatedly and the car is very very jerky, if I release the throttle back it accelerates fine, it just caught me out every now and again, also sometimes I would lose turbo boost altogether and the only way to get it back would be to stop, turn the engine off, remove the key and start it again.

Anyway, I borrowed an OBD reader (mine didn't show any faults and the engine management light never came on) which went deeper into the system, and several faults emerged, some historical but 1 in particular caught my eye, "2510-1 Stored & Current, Check component Y77/1 (Boost pressure regulator). Positioner signals fault".

I googled this code and found that it related to the turbo regulator, I removed the whole component, (remove the air intake bat wing, remove the turbo heat shield, remove the circlip holding the arm to the regulator lever and 3 bolts holding the regulator to the turbo, disconnect the electrical plug. there are six clips holding the black cover onto the body of the regulator which can be removed with a small screwdriver, inside you can see a number of tiny, and I mean TINY wires from the outside of the cover to the PCB, I had already replaced 2 of them previously, but on this occasion I found one wire detached from its soldered connection.

In order to solder a new wire you need to remove the zinc coating on the joints, this I did with my Precision grinder (dremel type tool), once the zinc was removed showing the clean surface I soldered another slightly thicker wire to this connection and tested continuity.

After fitting everything back I gave it a good thrashing up the road, that was 3 days ago, and I have tried ever since to make it do the "Kangaroo" action but t is as smooth as it should be, I will borrow that OBD scanner again soon and check to see if the code is still there.

That particular fault has been with me for a few years, and because my own scanner never showed anything I was clueless as to what was causing it.

So far so good.

Cheers

Derek
 
Hi,

I've had an intermittent fault with my CLS 320, where when I go to accelerate hard, the engine feels like it's cutting out repeatedly and the car is very very jerky, if I release the throttle back it accelerates fine, it just caught me out every now and again, also sometimes I would lose turbo boost altogether and the only way to get it back would be to stop, turn the engine off, remove the key and start it again.

Anyway, I borrowed an OBD reader (mine didn't show any faults and the engine management light never came on) which went deeper into the system, and several faults emerged, some historical but 1 in particular caught my eye, "2510-1 Stored & Current, Check component Y77/1 (Boost pressure regulator). Positioner signals fault".

I googled this code and found that it related to the turbo regulator, I removed the whole component, (remove the air intake bat wing, remove the turbo heat shield, remove the circlip holding the arm to the regulator lever and 3 bolts holding the regulator to the turbo, disconnect the electrical plug. there are six clips holding the black cover onto the body of the regulator which can be removed with a small screwdriver, inside you can see a number of tiny, and I mean TINY wires from the outside of the cover to the PCB, I had already replaced 2 of them previously, but on this occasion I found one wire detached from its soldered connection.

In order to solder a new wire you need to remove the zinc coating on the joints, this I did with my Precision grinder (dremel type tool), once the zinc was removed showing the clean surface I soldered another slightly thicker wire to this connection and tested continuity.

After fitting everything back I gave it a good thrashing up the road, that was 3 days ago, and I have tried ever since to make it do the "Kangaroo" action but t is as smooth as it should be, I will borrow that OBD scanner again soon and check to see if the code is still there.

That particular fault has been with me for a few years, and because my own scanner never showed anything I was clueless as to what was causing it.

So far so good.

Cheers

Derek
Yep that kicking is a common om642 event . If it’s not the actuator it’s often the exhaust back pressure sensor .
Its also worth spray cleaning the inside of the actuator with some electrical cleaner to get the carbon gunk out and putting a tiny amount of high temp grease on the worm gear .
 
My E320CDi used to do that from time to time. When I read the codes, I got an exhaust back pressure code.
 
I have been driving it for the last week now, pushing it to produce the fault, but the fault is not appearing, its smooth as it should be with perfect acceleration, so I can say the fault is cured.

Cheers

Derek
 
I have been driving it for the last week now, pushing it to produce the fault, but the fault is not appearing, its smooth as it should be with perfect acceleration, so I can say the fault is cured.

Cheers

Derek
had the same problem last year just before I went to Italy, had to have a new turbo to fix the problem, ouch.
 
Hi

Just an update, over the last couple of years I have had to "repair" my turbo actuator several times (those tiny wires to the circuit board don't like being soldered), I have replaced all the connections by grinding down the coating on all the contact points and soldered new wires onto each one, every time I do this it seems to last for no more than a couple of weeks.

So I decided to purchase a new unit, well Mercedes won't sell a n actuator without the turbo, so Ebay was my next port of call. I needed to obtain the G- number from my old unit and a supplier called transitpartsuk, yes they specialise in parts for Transits, supplied me with a brand new unit for £69.99. Now I am sceptical of anything which seems too cheap, but I've fitted it and so far it seems to have cured the issue, and the car seems more responsive and smoother changing gear etc, and I have a 12 months warranty too.

I think I read on here somewhere that any new actuator will have to be programmed to the vehicle etc etc, but I didn't have to do anything like that, just fitted it and drove away!

So there you have it another problem solved at a reasonable price too!
 

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