Kitchen/diner lighting conundrum

corned

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Hello all.

We are about to engage in some work at our house to knock through the kitchen and dining room to create a nice open family room.

We have everything under control except for the lighting. Currently the dining room has a feature fitting which uses 4 x GU10 lamps. The kitchen has 4 separate 50W dichroic flush-fit spots, and counter lighting (8W T5s) under the wall units.

The plan for the new kitchen is not to have any counter lighting. However, as there will be one large room, we want to be able to light the kitchen sufficiently well to see what we're cooking, but we want to be able to dine without feeling under the spotlight, as it were. So the space will still need to have two lit 'zones'.

My original plan was to stud the ceiling with LED flush-fit spots, but the control of these seems to be difficult. The solution I had in mind was to over-light the whole area, but split it into two zones and have them under dimmer control. So the kitchen bit can be bright and the dining area can be more subdued.

BUT - finding dimming LEDs is proving to be a harder nut to crack than I thought. Added to this is that LED lamps never provide the equivalent light output that their manufacturers (or retailers) claim, so if I can't dim then I will need to ensure the area is more than adequately lit.

I could, of course, take the easy option and stick with the 50W GU10s, but I hate dichroics, and I also hate the thought of 400 - 500W of energy consumption lighting the room!

If anyone can offer practical advice, or recommend some acceptable options then I will be eternally grateful.

Many thanks in advance.
 
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If you want to achieve different ambients with lighting, take a good look at putting up lighting troughs that would go round the parameter of your ceiling.

Dependant on the size of your room, it really could 'individualise' your kitchen/diner into something that hardly anyone else has got. Except me...
 

x332race

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I have recently fitted Auraglow LED Gu10s in my kitchen. I am very pleased with the result and the light output.....much better than I was expecting and possibly even better than halogen. They can be purchased in dimmable form as well as non-dimmable.
Can be purchased via Amazon or from ebay
 

Meldrew2

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The plan for the kitchen to have no counter lighting is, unfortunately, making a lighting scheme difficult.

You could light the ceiling with led spots to a reasonable light level, then supplement this with "task lighting" in the kitchen.

I know that the T5 under cupboard fluorescents are not nice to look at, but there are alternatives. There are some nice spotlights in triangular housings that fit against the bottom of the cupboard and the kitchen wall, and these are a lot nicer to look at.

Alternatively, bright ceiling lighting, with a couple of nice wall lights in the dining area... turn off the ceiling lights when you eat.....
 
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corned

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I should have mentioned that the under counter lighting is less important with the new kitchen, because the wall units are going to be few and far between. So not many overhangs to throw shadows.

I am interested in the Auraglow lamps though. Thanks for the tip!
 

Meldrew2

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................ not many overhangs to throw shadows.


Don't forget that your body casts shadows when standing at the kitchen counter, because most of the lights are behind you. This would be a major issue in a room with one central ceiling light, less so with your planned scheme of several led downlighters.

Just another complication to bear in mind.....



.
 

developer

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Hello all.

I could, of course, take the easy option and stick with the 50W GU10s, but I hate dichroics, and I also hate the thought of 400 - 500W of energy consumption lighting the room!

If you do go down the GU10 route, ensure they are no more than 1 metre apart.

We have 11 in our kitchen but they were spaced too far apart and so that's 550 watts :eek: of badly lit kitchen :(.
 

renault12ts

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If you do go down the GU10 route, ensure they are no more than 1 metre apart.

We have 11 in our kitchen but they were spaced too far apart and so that's 550 watts :eek: of badly lit kitchen :(.

How big is the kitchen??
 

Meldrew2

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If you do go down the GU10 route, ensure they are no more than 1 metre apart.

We have 11 in our kitchen but they were spaced too far apart and so that's 550 watts :eek: of badly lit kitchen :(.

The ceiling height is relevant to spacing... so you need to know the beam width...

It may be worth asking at your local electrical wholesaler about wide beam GU10 lamps...........


.
 

LTD

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Yep, one of THOSE !!!
headlamp_app.jpg
 

developer

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How big is the kitchen??

4.9m x 5m, however, it has a 45deg "corner" to match the adjoining bay window (that's why 11 lights, not 12).

It's made worse by the ceiling being at 2.7m.

The leccy did put his hand up, however, by this time we'd got 11 holes in the ceiling.
 

developer

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The ceiling height is relevant to spacing... so you need to know the beam width...

It may be worth asking at your local electrical wholesaler about wide beam GU10 lamps...........


.

We fitted floods, not spots, but if wide beam is different I'll certainly ask - thanks.
 

renault12ts

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Ours is 10m X 5.4M. We have 14 downlighters, 6 wall lights and under cupboard lights and two lamps in aluminium shades over a breakfast bar. We have 8 light switches for the different zones, and the brightest downlighters are 35w. Ceilling height varies between 3m and 2.4m.

The trick is many lights, with different zones for different uses/times of day.
 

LTD

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Yep, one of THOSE !!!
Why not look at lighting the dining area with candles or occasional lamps and use the LEDs in the roof directly above the cooking / prep area ?

This would give a definite difference in the calibre of light and make for a quickly changeable ambience.
 

developer

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Ours is 10m X 5.4M. We have 14 downlighters, 6 wall lights and under cupboard lights and two lamps in aluminium shades over a breakfast bar. We have 8 light switches for the different zones, and the brightest downlighters are 35w. Ceilling height varies between 3m and 2.4m.

The trick is many lights, with different zones for different uses/times of day.

That's not a kitchen that's a warehouse :eek:.

I forgot to add we've overcome the worksurface lighting with undercab lights.
 

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I think it may be possible to overdo the lighting

(two pendants and a lava lamp for ambient whatdyamacallit).
 
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corned

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I deliberately want to overdo the lighting.

That way, I can use dimmers to bring the light down to subdued levels when desirable, but they can still be ramped up when cooking in the kitchen part, or the kids are doing homework/whatever on the dining table.

I have a call out with the Auraglow distributors to discuss my requirements in more detail, so I'll see where that goes initially. They also do a remote controlled vari-colour LED GU10. Now that could be interesting! Or cheesy...
 

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Colour change LEDs ok in a kebab shop or a nightclub - in a kitchen :eek:


Have you looked at LED tape, can be dimmed, is warm white and makes great pelmet/skirting light.. Don't get it from the link, you won't like the price but bear in mind not all LEDs are equal. These are bright.

Another current favourite supplier . Not as pricey as they look.

We try to conceal lighting as much as possible - pet hate is a ceiling peppered with blinding downlights - get the set back type with a baffle if possible.

Loads of tips on lighting here

Also don't rule out free standing task lights - this old classic is a cracker

Or a bit smaller.


Ade
 
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corned

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Blimey! Thanks, Ade. There's some good weekend reading there (if I wasn't going up to Scotland!). I'll have a good trawl through that lot with my missus next week.

:thumb:
 

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