Looking for a C180 W203 advice needed

[KNU7S]

With an ever expanding family I want to get the wife a C180 and sell the A160.

Been offered around £1800 for the A-class which sounds good to me and looking to spend £4500 on a 2001 or 2002 C180

I have forund one in Jasper Blue with grey leather 80k service history for £4300 which seems ideal

What do I need to look out for?

 

[azaman]

Rust has got to be top of the list.

Secondly, listen out for dash rattles. My C180 (facelift, coupe) rattles like a childs toy from the dash!

 

[Mike Walker]

rust in rear wheel arches, bodyshell not galvanized until 2004, oil can get into wiring loom from front of engine so needs to be checked, 2.0 litre engine underpowered if not kompressor IMHO, front suspension bushes wear, audi 10 is rubbish. Really think you should go for facelifted version and kompressor or diesel as price of both is almost the same.
Certainly considering doing it myself. Mine is 2001 and returns around 37mpg on motorway

 

[elpeterol]

Jasper blue can show scratches quite badly so have a good look in different light.

 

[KNU7S]

seen quite a few now all very nice but not 100%

 

[ddentrec]

rust in rear wheel arches, bodyshell not galvanized until 2004, oil can get into wiring loom from front of engine so needs to be checked, 2.0 litre engine underpowered if not kompressor IMHO, front suspension bushes wear, audi 10 is rubbish. Really think you should go for facelifted version and kompressor or diesel as price of both is almost the same.
Certainly considering doing it myself. Mine is 2001 and returns around 37mpg on motorway

I agree with all of this. My 2003 C180K is rusting quite badly...££££ also spent on suspension work. IMHO avoid ANY W203. Definately get a warranty.

 

[verytalldave]

Not quite ANY W203.......................
Buy a post face lifted model - any time after about mid 2004.
Will cost you more but its money well spent IMHO.
Apart from having better equipment, it also came from an era when quality control was much improved and had a fully galvanised body - therefore virtually no rust problems.
2001/2 cars - ie-pre facelift did have rust and other QC issues and would therefore require a more detailed pre-purchase inspection.

One further point - I suppose you have compared the interior space between and A class and a W203 haven't you?
The A class is bigger.
Its not a move I would make with the sole purpose of gaining more space.
Either stick with the A class - or buy a facelift A class OR go for an E class estate.
Thats my opinion for what its worth.

 

[ddentrec]

Apart from having better equipment, it also came from an era when quality control was much improved and had a fully galvanised body - therefore virtually no rust problems.
2001/2 cars - ie-pre facelift did have rust and other QC issues and would therefore require a more detailed pre-purchase inspection.

Sorry Dave. I was told on this forum a while back that W203s were galavanised from mid 2003...now mine is rusting - and it was built Nov 2003. Also, in 2001 it was said that the (then) new W203 was 'much improved..for quality' over the W202. That, based on my experience of owning two W203s, is frankly rubbish. It is style over substance - you know that.

If you could point me to a Mercedes-Benz UK link that shows that the W203 is fully galvanised then I will shut up In fact I have already asked my MB dealer for the same for the current W204 and have not had a response yet. If you google 'galvanised' on mercedes.co.uk I get zero hits.

 

[Robbo]

I recall the galvanisation date was from 2004 facelift onwards. Dieselman is the guy to ask about this as he had MB contacts, but unfortunately he seems to have left the forum.

Anyway, Lets turn it around. How many threads do you read on here of problems with facelift cars? Not very many. Also the facelifted cars came out well in the JD power surveys too so most owners are pretty happy with them.

I sometimes share your frustration with owning a pre-facelift model, but I don't think you should let it colour your opinions on the later models.

 

[Mike Walker]

Further information on my W203. Rust to both rear wheel arches repaired - sic - by MB Main Dealer Beckenham Kent in January 2009 has now reappeared so back we go again. More hassle/mucking around to follow.

 

[ddentrec]

Anyway, Lets turn it around. How many threads do you read on here of problems with facelift cars? Not very many.

I agree Robbo. My 1985 W123 280TE is a 'facelift' model from the last year of production. It has over 165,000 miles. The tailgate is original and not rotten, save for a few rust spots.

My 2003 W203 has 59,000 miles. The tailgate lower-edge is starting to bubble all along its length starting at the water drainage holes.

I look forward to making a claim under Mobilo - though I expect all manner of excuses from my MB dealer.

 

[KNU7S]

Well I bought one and collect it tomorrow, I ended up spending more money but bought a mint 2002 C220Cdi Full history Jasper Blue and grey leather spot on! will post pics soon

 

[cleverdicky]

Just go over it with a hose or jet wash in all the cracks and crevices.
I've spent last six months slowly repairing one and seen and learnt a lot.
Where I've had various inner panels out etc. I've noticed quite poor design in many areas.
Just the other night doing my aftermarket rear sensors. Had removed the lining out of the left wheel arch, (where the sam is ) and next morning found the wheel arch 4 inches deep with water after the heavy rain
Pulled out the rubber stoppers (over the wheel arch) to drain and leaving them out now.
Another place to watch out for is under the battery. Water level needs to be a good centimeter before reaches drain hole. It slopes down towards front in a space next to suspension mounting.

Much comment about wheel arches rusting. Not surprising. Very little paint on the inside. The 'wheel' edge of the wing is just that, a sharp edge, but is folded round. Also has the plastic arch sealing against it. So any mud, rain gets trapped in the folded gap. Put your water proofs on and push up the plastic arch slightly, blasting the inside of the metal wing with a hose. I guess many cars are the same, but these are certainly NOT designed to avoid rust.
Mine is a late 2004