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Looking for advise on CL55k or N/A purchase

Fr3ddy

Active Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2015
Messages
71
Car
CLS 55 (SOLD)
Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone has any advise regarding the price of these cars as they seem to fluctuate considerably?

Does anyone know this car and if so, do you think it is worth the price?

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Been looking at the naturally aspirated models as well due to price difference? Has anyone got any experience with these two different engine types?

Thanking you all in advance for your help!

Kind regards,

Freddy
 
I'd not bother with a normally aspirated car. Not only are they >100hp down on the s/c cars, they're pre-facelift and much more prone to rust.

As for that particular car, it's towards the upper end of the price range but it does look nice and is fairly low mileage too.
 
With that particular model, I would get an inspection done at an indy before going ahead with any purchase.
The ABC suspension in particular can be a big expense if it goes wrong.
When looking at the car, check all the electric options work, Seat controls, seat heaters, electric mirror adjustment, dynamic seats etc. All can be costly if needing attention. Take a good look at the condition of the discs, pads and tyres and go through the service history. Also look at the last MOT. Have any advisories been attended to?
As above, I would go for the Kompressor model every time. Once you've driven one, you won't want the n/a model.
 
Id love one of these but id be to frightened to take on a car with ABC.
 
Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone has any advise regarding the price of these cars as they seem to fluctuate considerably?

Does anyone know this car and if so, do you think it is worth the price?

Auto Trader logo

Been looking at the naturally aspirated models as well due to price difference? Has anyone got any experience with these two different engine types?

Thanking you all in advance for your help!

Kind regards,

Freddy
Think AMGeed has covered a few areas of concern. Under the bonnet they are the same as the E and CLS and pretty bullet proof. If the service history stacks up well then it’s worth a punt.

In the advert is looks a lovely example, but you can only really tell how good a car is by viewing it.

I have to admit that the shape of that CL and the newer model still look superb. If in the future I decide to buy another M113k to keep Long term, then the CL might just pip the CLS.....

Good luck.
 
As above good cars. I think ABC has come on loads with regards to rebuilding and it’s not as scary as once was. @crownhouse and @alexanderfoti i think can both rebuild ABC.

In the same way SBC and Airmatic are much better understood and cheaper to repair then previously.
 
@m2287 knows lots about these and ABC suspension.
 
All I can say is that if you buy one of these, you better be sure it’s the car for you! It will break frequently but if you love it then it doesn’t matter, I did well over 100k miles in mine.

common problems:
ABC - not as bad to repair as it used to be. Most common issue is the pump which you can rebuild yourself for under £100 if you are handy. Pipes can be custom made from hydraulic companies. Remanufactured struts are easy enough to get hold of.

instrument cluster - I went through two of these in 6 years, the bulbs inside them blow and it’s hard to find someone who can fix them. My alternative was to buy a second hand one from a diesel s class, swap the internal fascias and then have it coded on star.

electrics - door jam wiring harness deteriorates, easy repair. Rear window ECUs break, easy to replace under the rear drivers seat but the best part of £300 for the ECU.

Blower motor regulator breaks from water ingress when the under bonnet drain blocks up.

The cables in the front seats break leaving a error message on the dash as it thinks your seat isn’t pushed back into position. Very annoying as the dash goes red and you can’t view anything on it.

The fascia which holds the electric seat buttons to the door always breaks and flaps about slightly (hard to explain!).

They rust on the rear arches, c pillar and on the doors.

The double glazed windows delaminate.

Suspension parts are under a lot of strain, bottom arms can be a complete mission and as they are attached to the front suspension strut with an allen pin it isn’t unheard of that they bind together and you have to replace the whole strut if your bushes go!

Probably loads more issues but these are the ones that come to mind!
 
^^ as said better to Look at than own lol
 
Hi Freddy, I owned a 2004 CL55 for over 8 years/86000 miles and although no expert can speak from experience. First and foremost is history, check all previous service bills, MOT history on-line (and double check any work req'd or advised has been done, with proof). They are not expensive to run and maintain if properly looked after, not cheap either but for the kind of car it is.
As AMGeed has stated, check everything esp the ABC system (it runs at over 120bar from memory), raise and lower the car a number of times, check for leaks - all the obvious things you would normally do when buying such a car. Check for corrosion around the base of B pillar were it meets boot/rear wing. Tyres, brakes and pads can add up to a good few quid so gauge the amount of life left in all of them (can be used haggle etc)
The car itself looks a cracker, in a rare colour that only appears to lack Distronic. I do wonder why however that someone puts a car like this up for sale at the top end of a very niche market and yet can't be bothered to clean the exhaust pipes! It would make such a difference to it's appearance for the sake of less than an hours work, just my opinion.
Good luck with whatever you decide, Matt :thumb:
 
Wow, guys! thank you all for your feedback, did not expect so many responses. Thank you all dearly.

Just another quick one... if you guys do not mind? Been hunting further and came across the 63 AMG version (c216) for a similar price to the 55k lump. Please see below link

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However, there is something about the shape of the c215 - I remember seeing these cars in the early 2000's and being like "If only I could own this car one day" and I suppose this day could be close! lol. Something about this model I can't put my finger on, such attitude and road presence + they are really cool!

Anyway, enough waffling for now... Has anyone had any experience with the C216? Would you say the c216 63 amg is a worthy descendant of the c215 55k amg? Or should I just stick with the old school?

Again, thanking you all for your lovely feedback in advance

Kind regards,

Freddy
 
Definitely consider the C216, also a stunning design that looks even better on the road and in the flesh. When I bought my 218 CLS63 I very nearly bought a CL with the same engine (albeit the M157 5.5).

Great choices to have and I’m sure some of the C216 owners will be along shortly to advise.
 
The 6.2 is a very different engine to the 5.5K and 5.5TT. Give them a try.
 
Oh right its just i've not heard of the suspension those giving any hassle but they are newer i suppose.

I thought the 216 was airmatic ??
 
All I can say is that if you buy one of these, you better be sure it’s the car for you! It will break frequently but if you love it then it doesn’t matter, I did well over 100k miles in mine.

common problems:
ABC - not as bad to repair as it used to be. Most common issue is the pump which you can rebuild yourself for under £100 if you are handy. Pipes can be custom made from hydraulic companies. Remanufactured struts are easy enough to get hold of.

instrument cluster - I went through two of these in 6 years, the bulbs inside them blow and it’s hard to find someone who can fix them. My alternative was to buy a second hand one from a diesel s class, swap the internal fascias and then have it coded on star.

electrics - door jam wiring harness deteriorates, easy repair. Rear window ECUs break, easy to replace under the rear drivers seat but the best part of £300 for the ECU.

Blower motor regulator breaks from water ingress when the under bonnet drain blocks up.

The cables in the front seats break leaving a error message on the dash as it thinks your seat isn’t pushed back into position. Very annoying as the dash goes red and you can’t view anything on it.

The fascia which holds the electric seat buttons to the door always breaks and flaps about slightly (hard to explain!).

They rust on the rear arches, c pillar and on the doors.

The double glazed windows delaminate.

Suspension parts are under a lot of strain, bottom arms can be a complete mission and as they are attached to the front suspension strut with an allen pin it isn’t unheard of that they bind together and you have to replace the whole strut if your bushes go!

Probably loads more issues but these are the ones that come to mind!
Or you could get lucky (like me) and not face any of these (except speaker wires).
 

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