Los 18 wheels for one hour

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

MercC350Coupe2011

Active Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
Messages
99
Location
United Kingdom
Car
Mercedes C350 coupe AMG sport 2dr 2011
Hello everyone,

Does anyone have spare wheels 18 for c class w204 that is willing to lend them for 30 minutes?I am based in Leamington spa but I could drive around.

I have got steering vibrations in the car ( I have tried everything in 2 mechanics and Mercedes dealer!) and I want to rule out wheels issue before I start changing suspension parts. I am an automotive engineer myself so please don't start throwing suggestions. I know why there might be vibrations.

Ps I am willing to pay for your help.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, can't help, as my W204 is sitting on 16" wheels.

But have you tried swapping the wheels back-to-front? Or does your car have staggered set-up - 225/40 R18 at the front and 255/35 R18 at the rear?
 
Sorry, can't help, as my W204 is sitting on 16" wheels.

But have you tried swapping the wheels back-to-front? Or does your car have staggered set-up - 225/40 R18 at the front and 255/35 R18 at the rear?
Yep it has staggered set up. I would have tried since i have tried almost everything.
 
Suggestion. From experience, one or more of the tyres are warped. that is the dimension is possibly the fault, it would mean off to the tyre shop and get the chap to run them, did this start when you had replacement tyres fitted ?.
 
Suggestion. From experience, one or more of the tyres are warped. that is the dimension is possibly the fault, it would mean off to the tyre shop and get the chap to run them, did this start when you had replacement tyres fitted ?.
The car had 4 old tyres when I got it. I changed them all to brand new Michelin pilot 4 to solve also the vibrations issue I had with the old tyres. The problem has remained. So the tyres are out of the equation. I want to rule out problem of the wheels as well.
 
Last edited:
I’m pretty sure if the wheels were bad enough to cause vibrations (ie buckled) you should be able to see this either by rotating them by hand or spinning them up on a balancing machine.
 
I’m pretty sure if the wheels were bad enough to cause vibrations (ie buckled) you should be able to see this either by rotating them by hand or spinning them up on a balancing machine.
Correct me if I`m wrong but ally wheels do thay buckle ?, or just break off, second thought can it be down to the discs warped or bearings naffed, just my thoughts, I agree balancing machine that will put that to rest
 
Yes, alloy wheels can and do become buckled.

Most modern alloy wheels are quite weakly made - cast alloy, often large diameter in size with small tyre sidewalls, coupled with quite large widths and increasingly heavier cars mean that speed bumps and potholes etc can easily damage modern alloy wheels.

Sometimes they crack and sometimes they buckle - alloy is quite soft and not particularly strong.

Vibrations could be caused by quite a few other components as you rightly mention :thumb:
 
The car had 4 old tyres when I got it. I changed them all to brand new Michelin pilot 4 to solve also the vibrations issue I had with the old tyres. The problem has remained. So the tyres are out of the equation. I want to rule out problem of the wheels as well.
If you had vibrations so you bought new tyres, but you are now questioning the alloys. Would a buckled alloy not have shown up when they balanced the wheels with your new tyres? I don’t know for sure myself so it’s not a statement more a thought for consideration.
 
The wheels were slightly buckled and I straighten them in a wheel shop. And of course they balance them again. And when I went to Mercedes dealer they balance them again. So I am 99% that it is not the wheels+tyres. But just to be sure I want to put new wheels and drive it for 10 minutes.

In any case case I have bought new control arms and tie rods. They need to be replaced anyway because I was hearing cracking noises when I was turning the wheel. Furthermore the camber in the front right wheel was off so probably the bushings were bad. I had moved them with my hand and they were loose. After I replaced them and do an alignment I will access the vibrations issue again.

If this does fix the issue it only remains the discs and the bearings. Discs seem to be ok and not vibrations when braking. The bearings seem to be ok as well because there is no play and they are quiet. So we will see in a few days whether the control arms and tie rods will solve the issue.
 
The wheels were slightly buckled and I straighten them in a wheel shop. And of course they balance them again. And when I went to Mercedes dealer they balance them again. So I am 99% that it is not the wheels+tyres. But just to be sure I want to put new wheels and drive it for 10 minutes.

In any case case I have bought new control arms and tie rods. They need to be replaced anyway because I was hearing cracking noises when I was turning the wheel. Furthermore the camber in the front right wheel was off so probably the bushings were bad. I had moved them with my hand and they were loose. After I replaced them and do an alignment I will access the vibrations issue again.

If this does fix the issue it only remains the discs and the bearings. Discs seem to be ok and not vibrations when braking. The bearings seem to be ok as well because there is no play and they are quiet. So we will see in a few days whether the control arms and tie rods will solve the issue.
Have you read another OP whose got ongoing vibration issue, he’s had multiple component changes, and still never cured the issue, I wouldn’t want someone else to end up going down the same expensive rabbit hole.
 
Have you read another OP whose got ongoing vibration issue, he’s had multiple component changes, and still never cured the issue, I wouldn’t want someone else to end up going down the same expensive rabbit hole.
That's exactly what I want to avoid. That's why I am asking for wheels for 1 hour. I am quite surprised no-one is keen to help. Not only here but in garages and even neighbors. I asked a neighbour who has the same w204 car with 18 wheels and he said that he doesn't trust someone to take his wheels of other than the tyre shop he goes. Which to me seems rediculus since I have got masters in vehicle dynamics and work in the automotive industry designing steering, suspension and brake systems lol.
 
I wouldnt say anyone here isnt keen to help its more than likely a distance thing. i see you posted you will drive around, if i had the same car wheels etc then you could make your way here and try them out, unfortunately I don't have the same car I am afraid.

are you doing the inner and outer tie rods? as well as the control arms the lower hub ball joint?

I had a little vibration on my cls when i first got it, turned out to be the lower hub ball joints and the upper ball joint, replaced them and it dissapeared.
Recently I did my inner and outer tie rods and a few other things as they were worn out, had a little bit of vibration, had it all re balanced and tracking done and its all gone.

I wish i could be more helpful

One suggestion though even though you have had them checked etc, try a different wheel re finisher, and get them checked for true etc again, I know you have had it done already but one last check over by another specialist before you go down the parts hole maybe worth it, all the weights cleaned off etc and re spun on the machine with a dial test indicator guage on.

Good luck with things I hope you do manage to get it sorted.
 
I wouldnt say anyone here isnt keen to help its more than likely a distance thing. i see you posted you will drive around, if i had the same car wheels etc then you could make your way here and try them out, unfortunately I don't have the same car I am afraid.

are you doing the inner and outer tie rods? as well as the control arms the lower hub ball joint?

I had a little vibration on my cls when i first got it, turned out to be the lower hub ball joints and the upper ball joint, replaced them and it dissapeared.
Recently I did my inner and outer tie rods and a few other things as they were worn out, had a little bit of vibration, had it all re balanced and tracking done and its all gone.

I wish i could be more helpful

One suggestion though even though you have had them checked etc, try a different wheel re finisher, and get them checked for true etc again, I know you have had it done already but one last check over by another specialist before you go down the parts hole maybe worth it, all the weights cleaned off etc and re spun on the machine with a dial test indicator guage on.

Good luck with things I hope you do manage to get it sorted.
Thanks a lot for the response mate.i have tried many different things in many garages. So unfortunately I need to get down the rabbit hole because I want it sorted out.

I am going to replace both inner and outer tie roads. As well both control arms in each front corner with the bushings and their ball joints. The car has 90k miles so it needs fresh parts in the front system really. It will give me a nice tight feel like new. I wanted to change those parts anyway and I hope it will solve the vibrations issue as well. 340 for all of them from febi bilstein. In Mercedescedes it would have costed at least twice. Let's see.
 
I wouldnt say anyone here isnt keen to help its more than likely a distance thing. i see you posted you will drive around, if i had the same car wheels etc then you could make your way here and try them out, unfortunately I don't have the same car I am afraid.

are you doing the inner and outer tie rods? as well as the control arms the lower hub ball joint?

I had a little vibration on my cls when i first got it, turned out to be the lower hub ball joints and the upper ball joint, replaced them and it dissapeared.
Recently I did my inner and outer tie rods and a few other things as they were worn out, had a little bit of vibration, had it all re balanced and tracking done and its all gone.

I wish i could be more helpful

One suggestion though even though you have had them checked etc, try a different wheel re finisher, and get them checked for true etc again, I know you have had it done already but one last check over by another specialist before you go down the parts hole maybe worth it, all the weights cleaned off etc and re spun on the machine with a dial test indicator guage on.

Good luck with things I hope you do manage to get it sorted.
Thanks a lot for the response mate.i have tried many different things in many garages. So unfortunately I need to get down the rabbit hole because I want it sorted out.

I am going to replay both inner and outer tie roads. As well both control arms with the bushings and the ball joints. The car has 90k miles so it needs fresh parts in the front system really. It will give me a nice tight feel like new. I wanted to change those parts anyway and I hope it will solve the vibrations issue as well. 340 for all of them from febi bilstein. In metcedest it would have costed at least twice. Let's see
 
Thanks a lot for the response mate.i have tried many different things in many garages. So unfortunately I need to get down the rabbit hole because I want it sorted out.

I am going to replace both inner and outer tie roads. As well both control arms in each front corner with the bushings and their ball joints. The car has 90k miles so it needs fresh parts in the front system really. It will give me a nice tight feel like new. I wanted to change those parts anyway and I hope it will solve the vibrations issue as well. 340 for all of them from febi bilstein. In Mercedescedes it would have costed at least twice. Let's see.
in one of my threads you can see the pics from doing mine, they really needed doing, I also went with Febi parts too, they are OE parts and theres nothing wrong with them. Used them on my last merc with no issues. The work I am getting ready to do in the engine is using all new merc parts but the turbo was done at an turbo specialist that has been going for well in excess of 25 years, used them before for other cars, they did me a new turbo and had it to me within 48 hours.

keep us updated as to how things go.

Regards

UB
 
in one of my threads you can see the pics from doing mine, they really needed doing, I also went with Febi parts too, they are OE parts and theres nothing wrong with them. Used them on my last merc with no issues. The work I am getting ready to do in the engine is using all new merc parts but the turbo was done at an turbo specialist that has been going for well in excess of 25 years, used them before for other cars, they did me a new turbo and had it to me within 48 hours.

keep us updated as to how things go.

Regards

UB
I have now changed all four front control arms with their ball joints and thet tied rods (inner+outer). Unfortunately the vibrations still remain!! So far I have changed tyres, fixed slight buckles and of course balance all four wheels 3 times!!, all control arms, tie rods, and propshaft donuts and propshaft centre bearing. Plenty of those have been replaced for different reasons not only for the vibrations issue. But I am just going down the rabbit hole.

I don't think I will ever be able to find it. It will really really dissapointing if I find another set of wheels+tyres and I put them in the car and the vibrations stop. I think the only thinks not been replaced are disc brakes, wheel bearing and wheels. If I find a set of wheels I can then focus on the discs and bearings. There is nothing more that can create vibrations really. Drop links and engine mounts are very very unlikely.
 
I have now changed all four front control arms with their ball joints and thet tied rods (inner+outer). Unfortunately the vibrations still remain!! So far I have changed tyres, fixed slight buckles and of course balance all four wheels 3 times!!, all control arms, tie rods, and propshaft donuts and propshaft centre bearing. Plenty of those have been replaced for different reasons not only for the vibrations issue. But I am just going down the rabbit hole.

I don't think I will ever be able to find it. It will really really dissapointing if I find another set of wheels+tyres and I put them in the car and the vibrations stop. I think the only thinks not been replaced are disc brakes, wheel bearing and wheels. If I find a set of wheels I can then focus on the discs and bearings. There is nothing more that can create vibrations really. Drop links and engine mounts are very very unlikely.
OK can I suggest something as I don't know if it has been done already.

Jack the front of the car up and put both sides on jack standsonce both wheels are off the ground grab the top and bottom of a wheel and see if it rocks in and out, if so then there is something loose ( a ball joint still) or play with the bearings possibly, the fronts are easy to replace, perhaps if they haven't been done do them and then check again.

I am sorry i do not know what else to suggest, I am having enough of a headache with my car as it is.
 
in one of my threads you can see the pics from doing mine, they really needed doing, I also went with Febi parts too, they are OE parts and theres nothing wrong with them. Used them on my last merc with no issues. The work I am getting ready to do in the engine is using all new merc parts but the turbo was done at an turbo specialist that has been going for well in excess of 25 years, used them before for other cars, they did me a new turbo and had it to me within 48 hours.

keep us updated as to how things go.

Regards

UB
I have finally changed wheels and the steering vibration issue problem remains.

So to summarize what I have done so far. I have changed wheels and tyres and I have balanced them plenty of times. I have changed the control arms and tie rods (inner and outer) and of course I have aligned the 4 wheels. I have finally changed brake discs. It only remains to check wheel bearings, shock absorbers, strut mount bearing and anti-roll bar links. To be fair I have changed a few parts because I wanted to put better quality parts and fresh parts not just to solve this issue.

Does anyone else have any other suggestion?

If nothing from the above works, I think a visit to a psychiatrist might do the trick..
 
Fault with a drive shaft or prop shaft
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom