M113K Chain Tensioner Leaking

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Najam

New Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2018
Messages
29
Location
Canada
Car
CLS55
Hi everyone....

A bit of background! I have a CLS55 that I bought a year back and the head gasket blew on the passenger side.....

My knowledge of engine repairs before the blown head gasket incident only applied to changing brakes.

I successfully managed to replace the Head Gaskets and got the car to fire up no problems. But....there was an oil leak above the alternator where the Chain Tensioner resides.

I remember distinctly when putting the engine back together that the chain tensioner was a pain in the **** to put back in but managed to do it and get the right torque spec once I got it in by hand.

Now 2 scenarios await me:

1. I didn’t tighten it correctly and i can have a go again by taking it out and replacing the Tensioner gasket and then putting it back in.

Or

2. I screwed the thread up as I tightened up the tensioner.....

My question is...if it is Scenario 2...do you guys have any idea of how to fix the threads if that is at all possible??

One silver lining is that the Tensioner is not on the main body of the lower block...maybe I can replace the front cover of the engine as a worst case??
 
Hi everyone....

A bit of background! I have a CLS55 that I bought a year back and the head gasket blew on the passenger side.....

My knowledge of engine repairs before the blown head gasket incident only applied to changing brakes.

I successfully managed to replace the Head Gaskets and got the car to fire up no problems. But....there was an oil leak above the alternator where the Chain Tensioner resides.

I remember distinctly when putting the engine back together that the chain tensioner was a pain in the **** to put back in but managed to do it and get the right torque spec once I got it in by hand.

Now 2 scenarios await me:

1. I didn’t tighten it correctly and i can have a go again by taking it out and replacing the Tensioner gasket and then putting it back in.

Or

2. I screwed the thread up as I tightened up the tensioner.....

My question is...if it is Scenario 2...do you guys have any idea of how to fix the threads if that is at all possible??

One silver lining is that the Tensioner is not on the main body of the lower block...maybe I can replace the front cover of the engine as a worst case??

the front cover can be replaced but it involves both heads coming off, it’s not too bad of a job.
 
If the thread had gone and there is space to manoeuvre maybe try a helicoil?
 
Without space to manoeuvre it will be impossible to fit a Helicoil (other brands of thread repair are available :p) as the hole needs to be drilled and tapped out. For that you will need quite a lot of space even if you use a cut off drill bit and an angle drill. Photos ?
 
Just an update...turns out it was the washer that got mangled and didn’t create the correct seal for the tensioner.

Not a problem, bought another washer and replaced it...I also replaced the intercooler pump with a new bosch unit while I was at it.

Put everything back together and hey presto! The car broke down again with another problem!

After firing up the engine and then shutting it down I jumped out and went to check the engine bay. I’m staring at the engine bay and right before my very eyes the coolant expansion fluid is disappearing to the sounds of glug glug glug...

I check under the engine and it’s bone dry. Opened up the sump bolt and lo and behold blue coolant and then crap oil comes out.

Turns out there are 2 seals in the timing case that can fail. It’s mostly likely that. I attempted a pressure test on the coolant system just for shits and giggles (after removing the oil sump bolt) any coolant I had in the system would come flying out through the sump.

Oh well...time to open the timing case ...what a pain in the ****!
 
Ouch... painful.

If you have the facility, just pull the whole engine out to work on. I think it’s easier to take out compared to a Jap. car.
 
Unfortunately I work out of my driveway...but my buddy has a car lift and he rebuilt a couple of M113K engines.

We won’t be able to pull the engine out but turns out another way is to take the front subframe off, the oil pan, all the accessory’s and then the timing case.

Gonna buy new timing chain, oil pump chain, guides, front crank seal, the 2 seals that caused the leak and also hoping to replace the rubber seal for the oil pump......while I’m in there...

honestly after this...the only thing left is to change rear seal....then I will have refreshed seals on the entire engine.
 
A car lift will be handy.

Do the rear main seal while you are at, it’s such a cheap part not to replace.
 
I’ve got no problems...just my buddy doesn’t seem to keen!

I’m gonna check the back and give it a year and then do it myself.

Want to drive the damn thing! It’s been 2 years and I’ve barely driven the thing for more than 50 miles!
 
A question for you guys:

My buddy won’t be ready for a month....

I’m wondering if I should drain the car of whatever coolant I can squeeze out of it, fill her up with oil and fire her up to at least get oil in all the nooks and crannies a couple of minutes every hour?

just worried that the car is full of water mixed with the oil and I might end up with a rust bucket if I do nothing now....thoughts?
 

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