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300CE
MB Enthusiast
Not a bad price for the kit evdok, although, if your looking about i'd be inclined to go with the Bilt Hamber clay as you only need water as a lubricant (costs about a tenner) 
Chrishazle
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2008
- Messages
- 5,453
- Location
- Nr Ashford, Kent
- Car
- 2008 S204 C220CDI Elegance Estate Auto, 2008 R171 facelift SLK280 Auto.
+1 for Bilt Hamber - 1/4 of the bar will do the glass, body and wheels of a car - I've done 3 so far and still have 1/4 of the bar left!
Do you divide the bar up and dedicate each section to doing, body, glass or wheels, several times over before throwing away. Or just use one section for the glass then the body then wheels - then throw the section away.
Or am I thinking about it too hard?
Or am I thinking about it too hard?
I've never clayed my car...
I did however last summer buy a Bilt Hamber with the intention while on holiday to clay my car...never did Since then though its been in the boot of my car in its little plastic box it came in, will it be ok still and work?
Will give it ago one day when I have the time. I ike the fact the one I bought you can just use water as the 'lube'
I did however last summer buy a Bilt Hamber with the intention while on holiday to clay my car...never did
Since then though its been in the boot of my car in its little plastic box it came in, will it be ok still and work?Will give it ago one day when I have the time. I ike the fact the one I bought you can just use water as the 'lube'
I have only ever clayed the body (never occurred to me to do the glass and wheels)
So I just keep on reusing the clay until it looks passed its best. So far 1 bar has done 4 cars and to my eye at least looks good for a few more
So I just keep on reusing the clay until it looks passed its best. So far 1 bar has done 4 cars and to my eye at least looks good for a few more
Chrishazle
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2008
- Messages
- 5,453
- Location
- Nr Ashford, Kent
- Car
- 2008 S204 C220CDI Elegance Estate Auto, 2008 R171 facelift SLK280 Auto.
I use 1/4 of a Bilt Hamber bar at a time - do the glass first, then the car, then the wheels - then bin it. Also, if you're unlucky enough to drop it on the ground, bin it as for sure it will have picked up grit - just what you don't need to rub over the car.
I guess if the car is really clean and you don't do the wheels, you could probably re-use the piece until it looks really mucky, but I've not tried that - I onlt clay my cars once a year, so for the small amount of money involved I just use a piece once.
I guess if the car is really clean and you don't do the wheels, you could probably re-use the piece until it looks really mucky, but I've not tried that - I onlt clay my cars once a year, so for the small amount of money involved I just use a piece once.
300CE
MB Enthusiast
Chris' advice is spot on. It's deffo worth giving your car clay as you'll be surprised by the results. This is the the link to my post when i cleaned and clayed my car:
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/detailing/111702-started-clean-300ce.html
The contaminants that have clung to the piece of clay you see in the picture is from the boot only (about a foot square) although bear in mind it would have been 20 years worth of grime!!
There are plenty of 'how-to' you tube links on the subject, just make sure you use plenty of lubricant as your rubbing the clay over:
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/decontaminating-paint.html
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/detailing/111702-started-clean-300ce.html
The contaminants that have clung to the piece of clay you see in the picture is from the boot only (about a foot square) although bear in mind it would have been 20 years worth of grime!!
There are plenty of 'how-to' you tube links on the subject, just make sure you use plenty of lubricant as your rubbing the clay over:
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/decontaminating-paint.html
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Chrishazle
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2008
- Messages
- 5,453
- Location
- Nr Ashford, Kent
- Car
- 2008 S204 C220CDI Elegance Estate Auto, 2008 R171 facelift SLK280 Auto.
Using a "normal" yellow cellulose sponge is a definite no-no - just look at it, the face is full of little holes that trap grit and scratch your paint. This is how I put a load of swirl marks in my 968 coupe.
Using a merino mitt for the top half, microfibre mitt for the bottom half, and 2 buckets, reads like a real pfaff, but once you try it you quickly realise it's no more difficult than using a sponge, but gives far better result with little chance of damage. I learnt the lessons 4 years ago and would not go back now - my cars are testament to the success of the method.
Using a merino mitt for the top half, microfibre mitt for the bottom half, and 2 buckets, reads like a real pfaff, but once you try it you quickly realise it's no more difficult than using a sponge, but gives far better result with little chance of damage. I learnt the lessons 4 years ago and would not go back now - my cars are testament to the success of the method.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 2,901
- Location
- Woodford Green
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- W140 S-Class, Porsche Cayenne and Porsche Boxster
If it ever stops raining... I will try and clay mine..
Surely the rain will saving you having to use water with it
millo777
MB Enthusiast
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- Mar 9, 2011
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- Swansea, Dubai, Riyadh
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- 1997 W140 S600L/2003 S211 320cdi
Dodo Juice clay is £5.50 a bar on ebay and any cheapo car shine type stuff is fine as a lubricant. Astonish show shine is £1 for a 500ml a bottle at The Range, or triple wax waterless wash is £1.50 for a 1l bottle in Tesco. Both are fine for use a clay lubricant.
Get some cheap Auto Smart fallout remover (same as iron-x) and use that first, then very fine clay is all you'll need. The grade of clay in most kits (megiuars and AG at least) seems to be quite aggressive and leave marks that need to be polished out, buying the extra fine seperately was a better option for me.
After using on the car paint I keep the old clay to use on the wheels, or if it's really grotty it's still handy for cleaning the inside of the wheels when they're off the car.
Get some cheap Auto Smart fallout remover (same as iron-x) and use that first, then very fine clay is all you'll need. The grade of clay in most kits (megiuars and AG at least) seems to be quite aggressive and leave marks that need to be polished out, buying the extra fine seperately was a better option for me.
After using on the car paint I keep the old clay to use on the wheels, or if it's really grotty it's still handy for cleaning the inside of the wheels when they're off the car.
neilz
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2009
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- 1,533
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- London
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- W140 S320L, 1997, Black with Black Bird's Eye Maple trim
I used Meguiars kit - cheapest on Amazon - when I used up my Autoglym clay bar kit, worked brilliantly and excellent value I thought. Bilt Hamber are superb though, used their cleanser-polish and rust products on my old C124 and they were all good so I think their clay bar kit must be as good though never used it
+1 for Bilt Hamber and 4 cars sounds spot on as I have used mine 3 times (split into pieces) and still have some left, once being an X5.
I notice there are 3 grades now so I am not sure which to buy when I need some more.
I notice there are 3 grades now so I am not sure which to buy when I need some more.
Maybe but Bilt-Hamber isn't expensive and you get quite a lot. I would be surprised if blu-tac were any cheaper (or significantly) for the same amount and, as has been said before, you use it with water too.
