Mercedes-Benz CLC Class (things to know before I buy)

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Dexy

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2021
Messages
3
Location
London
Car
Mercedes-Benz CLC Class
Hi,

I am looking to buy a CLC Class 1.8 CLC180 Kompressor SE 2d PETROL; Year 2009 or 2008. Mileage from (approx.) 48,000 to 65,000.

Could you please give me some insight, whether around this mileage there are major issues, certain parts that need to be changed, particular service required etc, so I can confirm whether they have been carried out, or be aware that they are pending and need to budget for?

Would very much appreciate it.

Many thanks!
D
 
The CLC (CL203) is based on the W203 (2000-2007) and was produced during 2008-2010 as a stop-gap coupe until the C204 (facelift) was released in 2011.

The W203 are solid cars (I had one for 9 years), BUT the 1.8L M271 Kompressor engine (143bhp) can suffer from premature timing gear failure. So ideally buy a low mileage car, with FSH, and listen for any rattles at startup and at idle. And, some owners have replaced the camshaft sprocket wheels preemptively, which is a plus.

Other common issues with this engine are split vacuum hose under the air cleaner box (causing rough idle), blocked crankcase breather (causing EML), and failed thermostat (engine not reaching 80+ degrees quickly). None are particularly expensive to fix.

One more think to look for is oil leaks from the two camshaft position sensors at the front of the engine. Disconnect the electric plug and check that its dry. The presence of oil in the plug could mean a new ECU, since the oil will travel inside the wire up to the ECU.

As for the car, common faults are failed front passenger seat occupancy sensor mat (causing SRS fault light on the dash), and failed steering wheel angle sensor (causing ESP fault light). These can be more pricey to fix.

The suspension is reasonably solid, although rear dampers can wear, as well as all the usual rubber boots and bushes. Broken springs are also a common issue. Listen for any thuds or knocks when driving over speed bumps.

There were two types of infotainment systems, the basic Audio20 (radio+CD), and COMAND NTG2.5 (radio+CD+SatNav). COMAND is the better unit, has better sound and other audio capabilities, and has built-in Bluetooth for hands-free phone. COMAND also looks nicer due to the SatNav screen, but ultimately the SatNav system itself is now outdated. Either can be replaced with a cheap but modern Chinese Android unit, they kind of spoil the original look of the car but they are packed with functionality including Apple CarPlay / Android Auto.

Good luck with your search.
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much @markjay . A bit overwhelming (for a rookie), but certainly helpful. Very much appreciated!
 
And, if I am not mistaken, then the SE is the 'comfort' variant, with higher and softer suspension, 16" wheels, no extra spoilers, and comfy seats, while the Sport will have lower and stiffer suspension, larger 17" staggered wheels (possibly also larger drilled front discs), sport seats, and various external and internal sporty-design trim bits. The drivetrain (engine and transmission) though is the same for the SE and Sport.
 
The 5g automatic transmission is pretty bulletproof, only issue is leaking pilot bush (the electrical connector). The manual 6 speed is less popular.

As for other options: HID/Xenon, real leather, and sunroof/panoramic roof are obviously nice, but rare.

Most cars had cloth fabric or Artico (fake leather), and H7 Halogens, though panoramic sunroof isn't as rare.
 
Servicing...

Every 12 months or 9,000 miles (from memory), alternatiing between Service A ('small') and Service B ('big'). Both include engine oil and filter change. The correct engine oil is MB229.5 (important).

Also:

Dust/Cabin filter change - included with service B.

Breake fluid change - every two years.

Air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and ATF+filter change - every 4 years or ~40,000 miles.

Coolant - every 15 years (if the car still has the original factory-filled long life coolant).
 
I would also add when you first turn on the ignition listen for a clicking noise from the dashboard area which may last for about 15 seconds, hopefully you won't hear the noise 🤞🤞. If that noise is present then it'll indicate a problem with the 'stepper motors' at the air vents, this repair can be expensive at the dealership as it generally means that he dashboard has to be removed. Your local independent garage may be cheaper, my indy has small hands & managed to repair after takin out the radio so was cheaper. Hope that you enjoy your car Mrs Dave has kept her baby for 11 years
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom