Mk1 Vito door rust repair.

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vito stan

Active Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
66
Location
Bristol
Car
police vito
Just incase anyone is interested, I'm just finishing off my doors
on my 02 vito front and back both sides with galvanised steel
sheets, it came out a lot better than what I thought it would.
The cost for both sides all in all £100 ish, although that will
still sit in primer until the rest of the van is de-rusted. If
anyone needs to know how to do the job let me know and I
Can help with the quickest way of doing it, I learnt the hard way
 
I have just brought a 1998 mk1 vito 108d to do up into a day van camper, i am in the process of de-rusting mine so i would be very interested mate.
I have started sanding my scabs down and treating with rust killer and coating with zinc primer, but after couple days i can see slight rust coming through one repair.
I think the only way to beat it is cut out and replace with new metal, i might after buy a mig welder and learn how to weld, so any help and tips most welcome. Thanks
 
Hi bud, I did the same as you 3 months down the line it looked worse than before. Sanding rust will just aggravate it you need to grind out rust until clean metal shows then fill it the same day to stop any moisture getting in.

I not sure how much rust you need to cut out I was quite lucky with my arches so I didn't need a mig. The most important procedure to carry out on arches is removing the mud from the back of them in the lip. I did this and repaired the rust and so far it's not come back.

I didn't weld galvanised panels I screwed and stuck on with filler then removed the screws, you can't weld galvanised steel the fumes are extremely poisonous. The tip is to drill the sheet panel, grind around the drill holes not to much though because you'll grind through the zinc coating. Then grind an inch wide strip around the whole panel be careful again, make sure the panel that you are fitting is rough half an inch smaller around the edges so its easier to repair to level out with filler. Do the same to the panel your fitting regarding the grinding, grind an inch above galv panel and an inch below. Apply the filler to the panel your screwing back, when you screw back make sure you don't over tighten because you will dent the panel. Once all screwed back just blend filler level to panel. You can now do the same to the other doors then concentrate on the filler repairs. The advantage to using galv is that it doesn't have to be primered to re-use van again in the rain.

Hope this helps
 
Thats quite interesting vito stan, and no welding, did you take any photos you could post.Thanks
 
I have, but I don't know how to post them. Do you?
 
I have, but I don't know how to post them. Do you?
Open a photobucket account its free, then you can download them to that site where you can copy the link to post on your forum threads. Hope that helps.
 
How and where do I open that too
Once you have opened the photobucket account and downloaded your photos to it, each photo will have a link which you just click on which will then say copied, then you right click on your forum thread press copy which will copy the link.Sounds hard but once you open the account all info on there, and its really easy.
 
Sorry, what I meant was where do I find the photo bucket to download it
 
Fuppin rust is a terror !. Mine was resprayed before i got it about 4 yrs ago. Now the arches are started, behind the doors. under the drivers door. Under the boot door, around the boot lock. a spot on the bonnet, the wind. the panel below the 1/4 panel window. Its just awful !
 
Nightmare isn't it. I had a lot also, im nearly done prep working now so looking forward to choosing a colour to paint him in. I haven't a clue what colour to go for, I am swaying towards silver though, but there is already 3 of them around my way
 
Mine has been sprayed over before, it will always come back unless its totally cut out and replaced with new metal. Find it very strange that u can not get repair panels for sills, doors act. these things rust like mad there must be a high demand for it, and a proper workshop manual.
 
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I thought I was being stupid that I couldn't buy a manual for it I looked everywhere trying to get one.
I did think that must be why that they don't make one, I also wondered why Haynes dont make one, must be a stitch up going on somewhere.
 
Give me email address i'll pass on some info lads. in disguise some how multi post maybe. or
 
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