ML fuel gauge stuck on full

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Smiffy212

New Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2020
Messages
7
Location
Brigton
Car
Mercedes ML 280 CDI
Hi hope someone can help please. I’ve a 2008 ML. The fuel gauge is stuck on full. It’s not been a problem as I just make sure it’s got diesel in it but I need to drive to Spain later this year so I need to get it fixed. I looked on here and some people have said it could be a fuse or to try another simple thing with the odometer or it could be a faulty resistor.

I’m not very good with things like this so I went to my usual garage to see if they can find the fault. Having told them what I had found on here.

He has come back saying it’s the fuel feed unit and I need to buy a new fuel pump. With fitting it’s over £1000. I questioned it but he was certain I needed a new pump. Can someone tell me if this is correct or am I being stitched up?

Would be very grateful for help.
 
What is the chance of 2 people having the same problem...

 
Maybe it’s common. How you getting on with yours and any investigations - are you being told new pump?
 
Dont know if this is any use:
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On EPC it looks like the pump and the level sensor are all in one, and like your mechanic says, it would all want replacing if the reset doesnt work.
It doesnt look a hard job to do, but apparently you have to drain the tank, so best to let a garage do it.
Most likely he is quoting dealer prices for the pump, he would probably be happy to let you source one, and let him fit it.
I have attached the WIS instructions for replacing the unit.
Bear in mind that these instructions are for a ML WDB 164120, which is the ML280 fourmatic, but shouldnt be different for any of the ML series of that age.
You will also need a fitting kit.

As far as the part numbers are concerned, there should be a sticky label on top of the old pump with the number on it, it should be A1644700394, if it is then:
Brand new £255, which is a lot less than a dealer would charge.
But dont buy it until you are certain you are getting the correct one.
See how much a fitting kit is from a main dealer, if they want telephone numbers, then get the part number and look online.
 

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What is the chance of 2 people having the same problem...


It's the same Post! :rolleyes: 🤔
 
Thank you so much for replying. This is really helpful. Much appreciated
 
Dont know if this is any use:
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For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

On EPC it looks like the pump and the level sensor are all in one, and like your mechanic says, it would all want replacing if the reset doesnt work.
It doesnt look a hard job to do, but apparently you have to drain the tank, so best to let a garage do it.
Most likely he is quoting dealer prices for the pump, he would probably be happy to let you source one, and let him fit it.
I have attached the WIS instructions for replacing the unit.
Bear in mind that these instructions are for a ML WDB 164120, which is the ML280 fourmatic, but shouldnt be different for any of the ML series of that age.
You will also need a fitting kit.

As far as the part numbers are concerned, there should be a sticky label on top of the old pump with the number on it, it should be A1644700394, if it is then:
Brand new £255, which is a lot less than a dealer would charge.
But dont buy it until you are certain you are getting the correct one.
See how much a fitting kit is from a main dealer, if they want telephone numbers, then get the part number and look online.
 
Thanks so much for you’re detailed reply. It’s really helpful.

I’m trying to do the fuse reset as per you’re utube video (something I asked the mechanic to do but I’m not sure he did.)

I’ve found the correct fuse No 57 as attached pic. My model is a bit later than the one on you’re video. It does the pump and the gauge. I just can’t tell from you’re u tube video if the guy had the ignition on when he took it out and replaced it.
It looks like it was on but I didn’t want to try it in case it shorts or something.

Also as the pump works fine I’m s bit nervous of playing about with it.
 

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Seeing as how the circuit only has power when the ignition is on, then turning it off then doing the reset wouldnt do anything.
Use a fuse puller, or a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the fuse, take it out, wait 20 seconds, then push it back in again.
The pump and the level sensor are two different circuits in one unit, the power will be split inside the unit.
It used to be two seperate units, a pump, and a seperate level sensor, whichever one conked out, you replaced.
But then some genius had the idea of putting them into one unit, progress says they, greedy bastards grabbing more money says I.
So, the pump can be working fine, but if the level sensor is knackered, you have to replace the whole lot, fifty quid level sensor against five hundred quid tandem unit (Which probably cost 25 quid to make), thats modern motoring for you!
 
You know, sometimes people can make a mistake, and post the same question twice, especially if they are a new member.
If they do it again, try politely pointing out to them that they only have to post once.
If they continue, then get all snarky with them.
 
Thanks for you’re help. Unfortunately it hasn’t worked so I’ll have to either live with it and carry a can or shell out.

I’m glad I know it’s been tried...

And yes as a new member I mistakenly posted the same msg twice and concur with you’re comment.

Thanks for trying for me. Much appreciated!!
 

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