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ML270 (w163) 2003 alarm unit

more bad news, daughter number 1 failed her driving test today (2nd attempt) got to fork out for another one now.
A driving test is nearly the cost of a new alarm unit !!!!!
 
just a thought, is there any work a round to get the indicators to flash on lock ?
Every thing works as it should on car, one flash on unlock, doors and tailgate all lock, just no visual indication on lock.
I suspect the alarm unit controls that function as well.
 
The PCB is probably damaged, should be 3 flashes to lock and 1 to unlock, that tow-away switch in my picture below has a LED that flashes every second when the car is locked to show the alarm is armed.

attachment.php


Is it possible to get your hand in to unplug the siren without having to take everything apart?

You could first try removing the fuse that is assigned to the alarm; it might be referred to as the ATA in the fuse chart. Check that the alarm fuse is not shared with anything else.

If the alarm fuse is removed, it could be several days for the rechargeable batteries to become depleted; this may or may not fix the flashing hazard issue.


This lad has the same idea as you, about moving the siren, see… Problem with anti-theft alarm. - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum


Dec
 
just a thought, is there any work a round to get the indicators to flash on lock ?
Every thing works as it should on car, one flash on unlock, doors and tailgate all lock, just no visual indication on lock.
I suspect the alarm unit controls that function as well.

A new siren will flash and beep 3 times on locking. Still once on unlocking.
 
Oh dam, will despite all the advice, and good advice, i have reverted to type and bought a cheap used unit. Its from a 2011 car.
My thoughts are, i will strip out old unit, re run the wiring to somewhere under the bonnet, connect it all up again and see if still works the same, then try the cheap unit i have bought, if all works correctly, will then buy a new unit. It will be in a place where i can change it in 2 mins flat.
One of the reasons i bought this cheap unit is that it has the bracket attached to it which i can modify to fit somewhere, the other reason was because it cost me £15 !!!!!!!!

I Know, i know cheap skate !!!!!!!
 
if i remember when i do this, will be some weeks, i will dig this thread out again and try to attach some pictures, might help someone else in future
 
Just an update.
I CAN CONFIRM THE ALARM UNIT LOCATION ON FACELIFT ML270 IS UNDER WIPER MOTOR.
To Access unit.
1) remove wiper blade arms (they may be very tight, if so stop them in direct up position, this will allow a removal tool to be used)
2) remove rubber trim along front of scuttle (in engine compartment) remove all three washer jets, remove six spring clips that retain scuttle.
remove scuttle, lift up left hand side, then fiddle off right hand side, it can be done but is tight.
3) remove two plastic nuts either end of under tray and remove plastic shield.
4) remove wiper assembly, 4 10mm nuts, two in middle, one at either end, disconnect wiring.

directly under the wiper motor is a plate with 4 10mm nuts, remove the two left hand side ones, and a 10mm bolt in scuttle panel, the alarm unit will now lift out of its hiding place, disconnect wiring.

I temp connected up me £15 second hand unit, result, worked as it should. Tomorrow i will extend wiring and fit unit in engine compartment, and again test. I will then put it all back together, but it needs a good clean, and i bit of paint on bonnet hinges first, i have also found another culprit that could be my water leak, the grommet that the wiper motor wiring goes through has lifted slightly, so will also seal that as well.

If i can, photo will follow at some point.
 
above are some pictures, I really struggle to upload pictures !!!!!!
First is of my 37,000 mile ML270.
second is alarm re installation done
I do not know why the other two are small, but one again is of the alarm finished, the other is the place where alarm is installed on build, the two inner nuts hold the alarm plate, you cannot even see the alarm until you remove it.
New £15 alarm works, one flash on unlock, three flashes on lock. Set alarm and opened door with valet key, alarm sounded ok, and stopped when key put in ignition.
I will have it armed over night just to make sure it does not false alarm in any way. No "chirps" on lock or unlock, but not worried as now have a visual indication its locked.
If I have also cured my water leak whilst there, which I will not know for a while, then car is now 100% at last.
Thanks for every ones comments and input, you are a great helpful bunch on here.
 
If the siren is ok for 24 hours you should be ok.

You did well, that’s a 7 year old alarm, that’s worth £30 so you made a profit of £15 plus a bracket, Put the £15 into Bitcoin and this time next year you can buy a new siren.

You cant beat a low mileage car at that age.

It’s too late now, to edit your post, but when you uploaded an image, you have the option to select the Full Image button, this shows the full image instead of a thumbnail, viewers can still click on the thumbnail to see the full image.

Dec

tip.jpg
 
Thanks Dec, I understand that, not really a computer buff.
The one and only issue I could see with my work today is that it covers the air con port, but 30 secs with a 11 mm spanner is all it would take. That's next job, air con recharge.
I am slowly starting to like this car as beginning cc to understand it, after so many years working on old landrovers it's a bit of a challenge, but getting there. Looking forward to summer so that I can do the small bits of paintwork and repaint wheels properly. And it will be warmer, I hope. At the age now that I do not like getting cold working on a car
 
Dec, 36 odd hours, no problems, no false alarms, all working well, thanks for advice.
NOW
Mini club door stuck, will not open. To get at the lock, two screws in top of door, guess what, cannot access screws without door open !!!!!
Managed to get a long 10mm ratchet spanner on lock bolts, took about 1/2 hour but got them out, able to open door enough to get screws out.
Either, lock has gone faulty inside, or cable has stretched, as when fully locked, cannot be released without forcing hook.
New 2nd hand one on the way.
 

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