Mopping wax

[ChrisEdu]

Probably a stupid question, but as I'm considering buying a machine I thought I'd ask. How does waxing work with an electric mop? Do you still apply the wax by hand and then buff with the machine, or do you both apply and buff with a mop?

If you do apply with the mop, how do you get the wax onto it? I struggle enough getting g the Collinite out of the tin on a sponge!

 

[Chrishazle]

Chris, I've had a Kestrel DAS6 for a while now but have never tried waxing with it, just paint correction and polishing. IMHO attempting to put wax on with it would be futile. As for buffing off, I've tried a machine with a sheepskin type head before, and found that the head quickly clags with wax and is a swine to clean, so I stick to old fashioned microfibre cloth and elbow grease.

 

[flango]

Yep I use a rotary polisher and put wax on by hand and take off with the polisher with pad designed for the job ones I have at the minute are called something like Xeo 10

 

[Lit91]

You can get a dodo juice supernatural wax stick if you wanted to apply that by machine, I've never tried doing that - but have seen many doing so.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqA4K4JCUlw

 

[ChrisEdu]

Maybe I'm getting confused between wax and polish?
Can anyone point me in the direction of a good guide? I know that I want to use a machine to take out blemishes from paintwork, mainly on my wife's car, but I'm also wanting to get my car ad lustrous as I can. I was hoping that I could use a machine to help with the waxing, after my efforts the other day doing it by hand.

 

[MancMike]

Wax adds a sheen and a protective coating.

Polish is a very fine cutting compound, most have waxes in too, as they're designed to be used regularly as a one stop shop of a Sunday afternoon..

For "blemishes" you probably want to start with a cutting compound, then a finishing compound, then polish, then wax.

If you do use a mop with a cutting compound, keep it wet and cool and go slowly. If it starts to thicken into a paste you'll cause more harm than good.

I went to the scrap yard and got a big dull faded fuel filler cover to practice on first.

 

[Lit91]

Compound/polish is to remove the imperfections in the paintwork, wax is to protect the paintwork (ideally after it has been polished), therefore locking in the shine that you've achieved through polishing.

Junkman2000 has a great youtube channel to get you started on everything that you will need: https://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000

Just before you go ahead with buying a machine polisher, make sure you choose the correct one for the job and not something that you will be likely to damage the paintwork with. DA: Dual Action polisher would be the be the best suited for a newbie.

You will also require polishing pads & compounds/polishers, therefore explore bundles where you can buy it all as one to get better value for money. Something like this would be a good start: DAS-6 PRO - Meguiars #105 #205 & Chemical Guys Hex Logic Kit - Clean Your Car

Junkman2000's videos will cover everything that you need to know from prep before polishing to the aftercare.

Hope this helps.

 

[ChrisEdu]

I went to the scrap yard and got a big dull faded fuel filler cover to practice on first.

That sounds like a good idea! I have volunteered to practice first on my mum's car and then my wife's.

 

[ChrisEdu]

Compound/polish is to remove the imperfections in the paintwork, wax is to protect the paintwork (ideally after it has been polished), therefore locking in the shine that you've achieved through polishing.

Junkman2000 has a great youtube channel to get you started on everything that you will need: https://www.youtube.com/user/Junkman2000

Just before you go ahead with buying a machine polisher, make sure you choose the correct one for the job and not something that you will be likely to damage the paintwork with. DA: Dual Action polisher would be the be the best suited for a newbie.

You will also require polishing pads & compounds/polishers, therefore explore bundles where you can buy it all as one to get better value for money. Something like this would be a good start: DAS-6 PRO - Meguiars #105 #205 & Chemical Guys Hex Logic Kit - Clean Your Car

Junkman2000's videos will cover everything that you need to know from prep before polishing to the aftercare.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for that - I'll have a look. Mr China always makes it look so easy, although I do remember that he always says about keeping it nice and wet to stop it from burning the paint.

 

[Chrishazle]

Don't be frightened of it Chris, just take it slow and easy, one panel at a time. Might be best to first wash and clay the car, maybe also give it a dose of decontaminant like Iron X to get rid of any metal or brake dist type particles before you start paint correcting.

The advice above about a DA polisher, pads etc is all good, especially having a water spray bottle while paint correcting. I used to use Autoglym Bodyshop 01/02/03B, but unfortunately it's NLA. 3M do some good products in the Perfectit range, I've seen a couple of high end bodyshops using their stuff and have tried the final polish myself, it's good.

Another thing you will need before paint correcting is 3M blue 25mm masking tape to cover panel joins, screenwash jets, glass edges etc before you use a machine on that panel.

I was going to get a scrapyard panel to practice, in the end I went straight after my 968 coupe - and transformed it! Took quite a while, but the difference - to what I thought was a well looked after car - was astounding, and lasted well. About 3 years later I sold the car, and it still looked superb.

Just take your time, start slow and easy, you'll soon get used to it and get quicker and better.

 

[ChrisEdu]

Don't be frightened of it Chris, just take it slow and easy, one panel at a time. Might be best to first wash and clay the car, maybe also give it a dose of decontaminant like Iron X to get rid of any metal or brake dist type particles before you start paint correcting.

The advice above about a DA polisher, pads etc is all good, especially having a water spray bottle while paint correcting. I used to use Autoglym Bodyshop 01/02/03B, but unfortunately it's NLA. 3M do some good products in the Perfectit range, I've seen a couple of high end bodyshops using their stuff and have tried the final polish myself, it's good.

Another thing you will need before paint correcting is 3M blue 25mm masking tape to cover panel joins, screenwash jets, glass edges etc before you use a machine on that panel.

I was going to get a scrapyard panel to practice, in the end I went straight after my 968 coupe - and transformed it! Took quite a while, but the difference - to what I thought was a well looked after car - was astounding, and lasted well. About 3 years later I sold the car, and it still looked superb.

Just take your time, start slow and easy, you'll soon get used to it and get quicker and better.

Thanks for the encouragement. I use 3m tape for masking when painting woodwork, etc.. What's the issue with panel joins? I can understand why you'd protect glass and wash jets.

 

[flango]

Great advice from Chris. I don't mask anything these days but been doing it 35 years now so think I got my eye in

 

[Chrishazle]

It's easy to get too heavy handed close to the panel joins - I've done it by hand on the A pillar of my 968 coupe! Better to put the 25mm tape over - for instance - the join between the bonnet and the wing, so you know you won't mess up.

 

[Lit91]

Thanks for the encouragement. I use 3m tape for masking when painting woodwork, etc.. What's the issue with panel joins? I can understand why you'd protect glass and wash jets.

You're going to get a lot of polishing dust, no matter how well lubricated the area is kept, this will stick in between of the panel joints. Cleaning all of the white polish dust from the joins isn't the easiest job, I'd rather spend time sticking the tape onto joins instead of cleaning them out, but it's everyone's personal choice at the end of the day

 

[ChrisEdu]

With the machines, what difference does the orbit size make, e.g 6mm vs 12mm? I understand that 12mm is more movement, but how does it affect performance?

 

[Chrishazle]

It's also rather too easy, when using paint correcting fluid, to cut through the paint at panel edges - which is why I tape all joins!

 

[MarkII]

Hi Chris(Edu),

IMHO, it's always best to polish with a machine and apply wax or sealants by hand.

If you take polishing slowly and methodically and learn your technique on loose panels (rather than your own), then there's little to worry about but do follow these important rules:

1) ALWAYS USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE POLISH
2) NEVER STAY IN ONE POSITION TOO LONG
3) BE CAREFUL AT SEAMS AND EDGES

Just remember, applying a 'bit more polish' is a LOT easier then applying a 'bit more paint'

For someone new to polishing, a Dual Action/Random Orbital Polisher is safer than a Rotary but best to get one with reasonable power and a range of speed settings.

I used to machine polish all my own and others cars for pleasure and shows and did it for years prior to my illness (though sadly I'm not up to it now).

When I started it was with the Porter Cable 7424, which served my needs very well (although it needed a transformer for UK use) - there are others available nowadays, like the DAS 6, which I'd probably go for if I was buying today.

You can spend more, on something like a Flex XC 3401 DA with positive drive and random orbit but unless you're using it professionally and need more cutting power I really don't see the point.

My approach was always the same: A thorough two bucket wash, clay all panels, tar remover where necessary, wax remover, mask off lights and plastic trim, and polish small sections (2ft x 2ft), roof downwards, using a hand-held fluorescent tube (old school) to check progress - there are better Xenon light units now.

In the old days I used to always use Sonus Pads (Yellow/White/Orange), a water spritz and wet bucket for pads, Farecla G3 for deeper swirls (depending on paint condition), followed by 3M Finesse-It, a through clean up, followed by 3M Hand Glaze and two coats of Zymol Atlantique by hand.

Times have changed however, so if I was doing it now I'd probably do the wash/decontaminate process above, check the paint thickness with a Paint Thickness Guage, then 3M Perfect-It (if the car had major marks), followed by 3M Finesse-It, a careful clean-up, then CarLack68 Nano (acrylic sealant) and finish with a couple of layers of Pinnacle Souveran Paste.

If you're looking for a good guide to polishing (and don't mind reading rather than watching) then I highly recommend this guide from Detailing World

Last but not least, enjoy the fruits of your labours!!

These pics are of my 54 plate Touareg back in 2006, after a good polish - in the side on pic I'm about 15 feet from the car. Happy days





Hope that's been some help.

Mark

 

[ChrisEdu]

Wow - thanks for taking the time to write that, Mark. There's certainly plenty to think about. I'll have a read of the guide and also watch plenty of videos before attempting anything.

 

[MarkII]

Wow - thanks for taking the time to write that, Mark. There's certainly plenty to think about. I'll have a read of the guide and also watch plenty of videos before attempting anything.

You're welcome

 

[ChrisEdu]

Any advice about the orbit length?