Multiple errors on car dash, refusing to let me go into gear

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Hus2k98

New Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
13
Location
London
Car
Mercedes E Class E220 Cabriolet
Hi all,
In my 2012 E class Cabriolet, I have been having a problem which was wondering if anyone could help with

When I put the key in, the engine starts fine but I get lots of errors on the dashboard
- Restraint Sys. malfunction consult workshop
- Cruise Control and SPEEDTRONIC inoperative
- Parking Guidance inoperative
- inoperative ABS/Traction see owners manual
- Front Left airbag malfunction, consult workshop
- Front right airbag malfunction, consult workshop
- PRE-SAFE inoperative See Owners Manual
- Active bonnet malfunction, See Owners Manual
- Run Flat indicator inoperative

My car was driving perfectly fine and has been, previously had a similar issue about a year ago, I would put the key in and turn the engine off 1/2 times and then it would just go back and drive perfectly fine. I had the car serviced and the problem went away. However, this time the problem isn't going away and I can't see what's wrong.

About 2 weeks ago, it said Engine Coolant low - but surely that can't be causing all of this? I can see there is still plenty of coolant left, its low but enough.

The car starts up fine, the fan comes on but the car won't let me change from Parking gear. It also doesn't let me turn on the computer function in the car etc.

Any advice? Doing my head in as I can't even take it to the mechanic as it won't let me drive.
 
Has the battery ever been changed? 7 years is pushing it especially as it gets colder

R
 
Has the battery ever been changed? 7 years is pushing it especially as it gets colder

R
Not recently. but could the battery be causing this problem even if the car turns on perfectly fine still?
 
Almost certainly low battery voltage even if it starts OK.
If you have Stop/Start, get the second battery checked too.
 
Almost certainly low battery voltage even if it starts OK.
If you have Stop/Start, get the second battery checked too.
Any advice on which company to call or something as car doesn't move
If I left the engine running - would the battery recharge it self?
I also have a battery charger which I bought ages ago for an old car, will see if I can try that
 
Its also start stop, so the battery in the back as well
 
Have you got a multimeter to read the battery voltages both at rest and with engine running?
Screwfix sell a reasonable one for under £10
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337


Both batteries should be reading at least 12.4v at rest and 13v+ upwards with the engine running.
If your Eco message on the dash has been turning green, you can probaby discount the small battery in the boot, but I'd suspect the main one in the engine bay, especially at 7 yrs old.

Tayna do a next day delivery and are very competitive on price.
019 Car Batteries - Wet, AGM or EFB?
The Varta 019 battery is a good price if you have an AGM type.
 
Any advice on which company to call or something as car doesn't move
If I left the engine running - would the battery recharge it self?
I also have a battery charger which I bought ages ago for an old car, will see if I can try that

If you need the car recovered, I don't know where in London you are located, but Wayne Gates in Harrow come well recommended.
https://www.mercservicing.co.uk/

Don't leave the car running. It will never put in enough charge.
If you use your battery charger, be sure to connect the neg terminal first, and take it off last
 
If you need the car recovered, I don't know where in London you are located, but Wayne Gates in Harrow come well recommended.
https://www.mercservicing.co.uk/

Don't leave the car running. It will never put in enough charge.
If you use your battery charger, be sure to connect the neg terminal first, and take it off last
Before I read this message, I left the car running for about 5-10 mins, turned it off and now its working perfectly fine. Guess your right ,I need a new battery.
Drove it around a bit, turned it on and off now and its working fine
 
Before I read this message, I left the car running for about 5-10 mins, turned it off and now its working perfectly fine. Guess your right ,I need a new battery.
Drove it around a bit, turned it on and off now and its working fine

As said, the mass of electronics in a modern car needs a very healthy battery for all systems to function. Once voltages become unstable under load then you can get corrupt CAN BUS signals and cause faults seemingly unrelated to appear.
 
Before I read this message, I left the car running for about 5-10 mins, turned it off and now its working perfectly fine. Guess your right ,I need a new battery.
Drove it around a bit, turned it on and off now and its working fine

Glad to hear the messages have disappeared after a short charge. Don't be surprised if they reappear when you next start the car. It needs a real long run to put plenty of charge in the battery, especially if its failing.
 
Before you purchase a new battery charge it overnight and see how that fares.
 
Before reading through the thread, my first thought was 'battery'. Many newer cars are susceptible to battery voltage falling, Jaguars and Astons being just two other marques suffering similar. If it was mine and it was still on the original battery, the first thing I would do would be to replace it.
 
I concur with the above, replace the battery. I've always found the dealer to be on the money with prices for a new battery.
 
Have you got a multimeter to read the battery voltages both at rest and with engine running?
Screwfix sell a reasonable one for under £10
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337


Both batteries should be reading at least 12.4v at rest and 13v+ upwards with the engine running.
If your Eco message on the dash has been turning green, you can probaby discount the small battery in the boot, but I'd suspect the main one in the engine bay, especially at 7 yrs old.

Tayna do a next day delivery and are very competitive on price.
019 Car Batteries - Wet, AGM or EFB?
The Varta 019 battery is a good price if you have an AGM type.

I got a diagnostic tool thing which showed my battery voltages are

Engine off - Min 13.00V, MAX 14.5 - usually was running 13.5
Engine on - Min 14.16V, MAX 14.51V - usually running 14.33

Is that ok?
Car is working fine now
 
I got a diagnostic tool thing which showed my battery voltages are

Engine off - Min 13.00V, MAX 14.5 - usually was running 13.5
Engine on - Min 14.16V, MAX 14.51V - usually running 14.33

Is that ok?

Running voltage is OK but the engine off voltage measurement is only of use if you measure it after a period of rest i.e. the engine hasn't run or the battery hasn't been charged for several hours or ideally overnight. The figures are high which suggests that it wasn't a rested voltage.
 
Well most E mercedes have two batteries,I would have a look in the boot and put your tester on that battery,my S mercedes threw up a few odd warnings and so I fitted a new rear battery and they all went away,I see you posted that the car has sorted itself,but this happens sometimes,if it comes back change the batteries.
 
The best test of a battery is a load test which can be done at Halfords or any local battery supplier.
Your battery will state a CCA (cold cranking amps) on the casing and a load test will reveal whether your battery reaches this figure.
If its too low, it will indicate the battery is failing despite it being fully charged.

Do this with both batteries but don't be pressurised into buying any new ones from Halfords.
Main dealer, Tayna or ECP will beat Halfords price.
 
Well most E mercedes have two batteries,I would have a look in the boot and put your tester on that battery,my S mercedes threw up a few odd warnings and so I fitted a new rear battery and they all went away,I see you posted that the car has sorted itself,but this happens sometimes,if it comes back change the batteries.

The post 2006 facelift E Class reverted to a single battery.
 

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