My balls are being a pain

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SLKNick

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Mar 1, 2015
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Location
Surrey
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SLK 230K
Anyone got any tips on how to split stubborn ball joints?

I am trying to replace the front lowers on my '03 R170 but so far have been unable to split the joint to the upright and broken a couple of tools in the process. The same double tapered joint is used on several other models but access on the R170 is a limited due to the unique layout of upright and suspension arms.

Any tips or suggestions for suitable tools would be appreciated.
 
One very large hammer! I have never needed anything else, i can change them is about 8 minutes a side. :)

When you have taken of the first nut smash the hell out of the ball joint with your hammer, then swing the entire suspension/hub out the way, remove second nut and hit with hammer.
 
[YOUTUBE HD]LDsci-izhhc[/YOUTUBE HD]

NOTICE- YOU SLACKEN THE NUT FIRST BUT LEAVE IT ON A FEW THREADS TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE THREADS AND SUSPENSION COMING APPART. WHEN YOU HIT THE ASSEMBLY NOTICE YOU ARE NOT HITTING THE BALL JOINT AT ALL JUST THE ARM/UPRIGHT THE TAPERED PART FITS INTO!
 
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I am full of admiration of the hammer method, but I don't understand the comment about not having to replace the boot.

Ball joints are often supplied with a new boot anyway, and where ball joints were not supplied with a new boot, I always bought one separately and replaced it as a matter of course.

You can get good quality boots simply based on the dimensions of the old boot, no need to buy from dealer.

But the logic of retaining the old boot escapes me.
 
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I always loosen of the retaining nut until level with the top of the thread and clump the nut /thread with a hammer, liking the video tho, may give that a try next time.
 
I am full of admiration of the hammer method, but I don't understand the comment about not having to replace the boot.

There are several jobs on the suspension which require the joints to be split but not necessarily replaced, hence you could end up re-using the old joint and boot. For example: spring replacement.
 
I will make another attempt with the hammer method, I didn't try hitting it from the side. However, access is limited and it might not be possible to either hit it in the right place or hard enough to work.
 
Anything that is going to get damaged is getting replace so hammer method on bottom ball joints is fine.

Good luck
 
If you can't get access to swing a hammer, see if you can use a long, heavy bar like a breaker bar to use as an extender. If it's heavy and strong it'll transfer the shock perfectly.
 
Hit what it goes through
 

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