my inlet manifold off job

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tpv01

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Jul 9, 2008
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173
this is for a 1994 W124 E300d Multivalve OM606 engine

started to do a full write up but was too long and would add nothing to what you can already find. Insted i will post up the pictures i took and questions and points i can raise.

3 pics per post though.

1. my engine bay

2. with manifold off. you can see the black plastic things that frequently get brittle and break along the right of the engine. more of them were broke than were ok on my engine so i was glad i bought a bag full of replacements.

3. an injector with no fuel leaks from the diesel leak of pipe [black pipes]. These need to be replaced by the stuff you buy by the meter from MB.
 

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4. injector port filled with liquid from the leak-off pipes leaking. aparently dramactically affects performance. i suspect the blanked off pipe was to blame and replaced with properly blanked off pipe. the leak off pipe runs from injector to injector and has a blank at the final injector.

5. the 5 replacement fuel pipes bought from MB. you will notice there are 2 with banjo type connections. however on my engine there was only one pipe that had a banjo connection (the longer one in the pic) so i dont know about the other one. There are 2 banjo types in the russian pic but Silversaloon has also said that he only has one banjo connection on his OM606 eninge.

6. the inlet manifold gasket. the black stuff is the rubber that covers the metal gasket. you can see the position of some of the GPs here.
 

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7. 5 of the 6 GP i was able to remove. GP #2 was stuck in hence the space. The others came out fine after multiple soakings with Plusgas as i got on with other jobs. I was not able to start up the engine to get it hot which is another method of shifting them becuase i had air in my new fuel lines and my battery was on the way out. I replaced these plug with Bosch Duraterm which are meant to be better for veg starts. I got rid of my "glowplug light staying on" problem which was a dead plug #3. All the plug test good for resistance now and starts really well. job worth doing.

looking at the removed plug for signs of problems.
#1 was quite carboned up at the tip but as with all the other plugs did not have a mass of carbon on the tip which stopped it coming out of the hole.
#2 didnt come out
#3 more carbonned up than #1. this was the dead plug.
#4 alot of white deposit on the shaft.
#5 was wet with something on the tip. could of been the plusgas?
#6 also had some whitening on the shaft and a bit carbonned on the tip.

8. new fuel line installed. no leaks experienced here

9. new fuel lines fixed to new fuel filter. however the middle line that was provided by MB was not long enough to reach the filter so reused old line with new seals. Should be easy to replace this line in situ when the correct pipe is found. need to know why the pipe MB provided did not fit??
 

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10. another pic of the fuel filter with new (and 1 old) attached fuel lines

11. new fuel line attached. no leaks here.

12. poor pic but at the very bottom there is the banjo connection that was replaced. the only banjo connection for the fuel system on my car even though the russian pic shows 2.
 

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13. better pic of the banjo connection

14. inlet manifold gasket.


hope this is of help to someone. not really sure what i can advise. the fuel clips were replaced. there must be about 7 of them. seemed in good condition on mine and pretty well made. all the torx bolts came off ok for me the only one i had a problem with is the single alan bolt connecting the crossover pipe to the manifold. it was jammed in pretty hard and rounded the hole using an alan key, i ended up by hammering a socket over it which worked well.

very obvious but remove the washer fluid bottle out of the way (1x10mm) to give yourself room to work.

glow plugs that came out came out suprisingly well. engine was cold but i used a good soaking of plusgas. all plugs went back in with copperslip on threads.

the amount of gunk that was in the manifold and crossover was disgusting. years of EGR i guess. i have blocked off the EGR now so hopefully that wont keep mounting up. It cleaned it out the best i can by soaking in diesel and then using carb cleaner and a babybottle brush. The carb cleaner was more effective than the diesel which makes me think soaking in proper degreaser might be more effective. i expect cleaning all the gunk out will help the engine run smoother and more efficiently by helping it "breath in" better, i see it like i have blown its nose for it!

looking at the type of gunk in the inlets it was all pretty similar but in the furtherest forward port the gunk seemed very dry and in the rear-most the build up was the most significant. im not sure what this means for the health of my engine.

had a bit of nightmare when putting it back together. got to the end and noticed that i had not pulled one the throttle rod that goes down the right side of the engine through the gap in the manifold and i couldnt get it through so i had to take apart again (undoing all those torx bolts is a work out!) and pull the rod through. make sure you check all these things as you are putting everything back. the other thing to watch out for is vac pipes falling off as you are working in this area. There is a vac pipe that connects to the underneath of the crossover pipe that need to be disconnected if you are removing the crossover pipe. same for the IM. make sure you reconnect them when you put the crossover and IM back. these ones are obvious but there are a multitude of other vac pipes in that area that disconnect very easily make a final check that they are all connected before you put everything back on.

pretty much all the bolts are 10mm and all the same length too.

leak wise i am hoping that it is all dried up now. if there is anything i have the feeling it will be the high pressure thick lines from the fuel pump.

i noticed the prefilter was leaking a bit with the silly bracket it uses to hold it down so i added a washer between the bracket and bolt which stopped it leaking.

i will add anything else if i think of it.

i would appreciate you comments and any advise on the questions i hav raised.
 

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excellent post - thanks.

i enquired about the 2nd banjo connection (as this is the only pipe i've not bought) and the parts guy says that they may have updated it and it will fit with both. I doubt it as the hole would need to be threaded, which i dont think it is.

i think you could get away with using the same pipe as the one to the left of it in your pic. OK, it would be slightly longer but the connections will be the same. This is probably what i will do if all else fails. I can confirm that all these pipes can be removed and refitted with the IM fully on, apart from the one with the banjo. This is the only one i've not done - but also seems to be the only one that isnt leaking! I did replace the o-ring on the other end though.

what size sockets etc did you use to remove the GPs? my tools are pretty rubbish so i want to buy the correct socket sizes in advance of doing the job.

Interesting about the leak off pipes - i bet mine are leaking. Is replacing these pipes easy? How and what do they fit onto? what is the part number for it?

did you re-use the IM gasket? i bought a new one but i've 2 cars to do and i've read it can be reused, and at £11 each it would be good to save it.
 
excellent post - thanks.

i enquired about the 2nd banjo connection (as this is the only pipe i've not bought) and the parts guy says that they may have updated it and it will fit with both. I doubt it as the hole would need to be threaded, which i dont think it is.

i did see a bolt that looked like it might take a banjo connection. it was bolted in an i didnt get round to undoing it to have a look but it is a bit of a mystery?? worked fine before without this 2nd banjo line so i thought it best not to mess. might need a bit more investigation.

i think you could get away with using the same pipe as the one to the left of it in your pic. OK, it would be slightly longer but the connections will be the same. This is probably what i will do if all else fails.

this is true but there must be a more resonable explanation.

I can confirm that all these pipes can be removed and refitted with the IM fully on, apart from the one with the banjo. This is the only one i've not done - but also seems to be the only one that isnt leaking! I did replace the o-ring on the other end though.

this is true but i would say that taking the IM off is no big deal espeacilly after you have done it the first time. I would have no qualms about taking it off again if i still had leaks. In fact i have already taken off the crossover to reconnect my vac lines.

what size sockets etc did you use to remove the GPs? my tools are pretty rubbish so i want to buy the correct socket sizes in advance of doing the job.

it is a deep socket 12mm

Interesting about the leak off pipes - i bet mine are leaking. Is replacing these pipes easy? How and what do they fit onto? what is the part number for it?

they are easy to replace. the old ones just pull off the nipple but they are bound to leave a bit of pipe around the nipple that will need to be yanked or cut off with smaller screwdriver and neddle nose pliers. not sure of the part number but it is standard diesel leak off pipe MB sells by the metre. it is rubber pipe with grey cotton covering (with orange stripe!) but the stuff on your car might be black. They will know what you are talking about.

did you re-use the IM gasket? i bought a new one but i've 2 cars to do and i've read it can be reused, and at £11 each it would be good to save it.

i got a new IM gasket. the one i took off didnt have a lot of its rubber covering left so im pleased i had a new one. this one should be good for a few years and i wont replace when i take the IM off in the future.
 
i'm definatly doing this job weekend after next. (planned to do it this weekend until wife informed me that we had visitors!!)

i'll make sure i have a 12mm socket. How deep does it need to be?

by 'copper slip' do you mean 'copper grease'? ie the stuff you would put on the back of brake pads?

what % of veg are you on now? where are you getting it from at the moment?
 
i'm definatly doing this job weekend after next. (planned to do it this weekend until wife informed me that we had visitors!!)

i'll make sure i have a 12mm socket. How deep does it need to be?

by 'copper slip' do you mean 'copper grease'? ie the stuff you would put on the back of brake pads?

what % of veg are you on now? where are you getting it from at the moment?

there is a standard one you get from halford which is fine. i think they are all the same. one tip though for when you put the plugs back is that the socket is too deep for the thread so when you push it on the threads wont quite touch the thread. so you need to put a screw into the socket to raise it out a bit. careful you dont let the screw fall somewhere you dont want it too.

are you replacing the plugs with duraterm. have noticed my starting is much better since this job but could be down to a number of things (new battery, warm mornings, etc) but i reckon they are decent.

yep copperslip / coppergrease. same stuff.

i reckon i am on a good 70-90%. not sure on the mpg of it the moment. please with how it is running and how it is starting since the weekend. Picking up my first WVO today but dont know when i will filter it etc.
still getting my SVO from the chinese supermarket. Looked in supermarkets and a local cash and carry (Bestplace, Park Royal) and it is much more expensive. I bought 20L of rapeseed for £20.39 and 20L of soybean (in a handy reuseable plastic container which will come in handy for my WVO) for £20.09. I know the soybean is thicker but hoping the mix and warm temps at the moment will mean it is ok.
 
Where the diesel supply pipe fits into the side of the pump, how does it fit in.?
This is where the second banjo fitting went but later cars with a shut-off valve use clip on pipes there as the shut-off bolts on.

The pipe behind the pump is the leak-off returns so won't affect running, and being a banjo fitting won't leak anyway.

My preference would be banjo fittings all the way through the system.
 
One of the diesel lines was changed by MB. The original was a clip fitting - it was then updated to a banjo fitting. I was very sceptical - but sure enough the body (I think of the pump) is threaded and the new pipe went straight in.
I agree these would all be better with banjo bolts all round.
 
i'm going to visit my local Bosch Service Counter to see if they have/can get duraterm plugs. if they can i'll use them.

agree a clear pipe used on a W210 is probably the best solution to sort the non-existant banjo fitting. on the 606 we have all the pipes are the horsehoe push/clip connectors apart from the 1 banjo on the left hand side of the engine.

i'm a bit wary of using soyabean to be honest. I've done about 1000 miles on the stuff 100% (used it on my trip to cornwall and back) for convience as it comes in 20L bottles. I assume its the KTC stuff you've got? comes in 20L bottles in a cardboard box? booker sells this for £17.99

i've updated the veg thread on my opinions on this as i dont want to hijack this informative thead with stuff about what veg to use. it would be good to hear other's thoughts....
 
One of the diesel lines was changed by MB. The original was a clip fitting - it was then updated to a banjo fitting. I was very sceptical - but sure enough the body (I think of the pump) is threaded and the new pipe went straight in.
I agree these would all be better with banjo bolts all round.

wow, parts guy was correct!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
wow, parts guy was correct!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:

yes it does happen. I drove my parts guy mad over this telling him he had got me the wrong pipe please try again. I was dreading disturbing the old pipe in case there was no thread in there to put the new pipe in....but eventually went for it and ten mins later all done.
 
there is a standard one you get from halford which is fine. i think they are all the same. one tip though for when you put the plugs back is that the socket is too deep for the thread so when you push it on the threads wont quite touch the thread. so you need to put a screw into the socket to raise it out a bit. careful you dont let the screw fall somewhere you dont want it too.

I would always start the threads by hand, that way there is no chance of cross threading.
The socket is deeper than a regular standard 12mm socket. Best to take a plug in with you to get the right one.
 
I would always start the threads by hand, that way there is no chance of cross threading.
The socket is deeper than a regular standard 12mm socket. Best to take a plug in with you to get the right one.

hhhmmmmm.....it was a long day in the sun when i started putting the new plugs back in but there must of been a reason why i didnt do this as it is so obvious. maybe a few of them are obscurred a bit...or i might just be dim.
 
hhhmmmmm.....it was a long day in the sun when i started putting the new plugs back in but there must of been a reason why i didnt do this as it is so obvious. maybe a few of them are obscurred a bit...or i might just be dim.

No sounds like you did a great job - good job the heat did not test your patience - well done.
 
dont suppose you know of the diameter of the diesel leak off pipe?

i assume i only need one blank? or do i need more?

can these pipes be bought elsewhere, or am i best going to merc? how much was the pipe and do i need more than 1 metre?

i dont know if mine are leaking, but i guess its worth replacing anyway.

Apparently (according to the veg forum) - on veg these standard braided pipes wont last long at all (6 months max) so a lot of people tend to use viton pipes. Hence my enquiry on the diameter/width etc... ;)

thanks

derek
 
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