Mystery blower motor issue - help please...

[MB094]

Hi guys,

I would like to write a new thread as I m looking at so many threads but don't really find a real answer to my question.., for the past days I have been into reading but nothing I can really go by..anyway my problem is the following ;

my car is a late W124 a 1994 E220 Coupe and what happened was the car sat for years I knew that when I got it so I expected problems, when I started using the car the fan was working, it squeaked but then it went away and thought its all good it worked on low and high speed normally as you expect it to, so it was good but then all of a sudden it stopped...well I checked the fuse and it wasn't blown, but the bottom of the fuse were it sits it was melted!, well I took it out strait away and I thought because the motor squeaked the bearing sized up..so I took out the fuse box and re-connected the wires on another empty spot so I can put the fuse back properly, anyway I changed the motor just recently and thought It will be all good, BUT motor didn't do nothing, while the wiper and everything was out, I put power directly on to the motor and it was blowing, so I put everything back together then tried another fan switch still nothing and the motor does not want to go. I pulled the socket off the fan switch and there is no power, on neither of the pins, I pulled the socket off the resistor just behind the booster, and there is no power either, on the fuse there is power, but nothing after the fuse!,...

guys, what do you think is causing my problem? Its winter coming here in Melbourne and need my fan really quick lol I think its the resistor, but just guessing and what about the regulator? were is it located?

Thanks guys

regards, Les

 

[Ted]

Les, you say that there is power to the fuse, but nothing after it?
That means either a faulty fuse, or more likely in your case that a connection on one side of the fuse isn't making contact with the fuse itself - not unusual if you have had the connection hot/melted
Test it all again but with a test light rather than a voltmeter as this will give the most accurate indication

 

[bolide]

Melted heater fuse holders are fairly common on the W124. The heater fan draws a lot of current and the ceramic fuses tend to corrode and go high-resistance over time. The heating effect in the fuseholder causes the base to melt & recede

I have seen cars where the wiring has been modified to have the fuse in a separate holder - a good idea IMHO

Nick Froome

 

[dinoy]

i have the same problem we wired it to the next slot avail from no 12 to no 11, but still no joy in working it, we have not yet at this stage tested the fan direct if it has melted the holder but unsure if the heater has blown.

it is easy to chane whole holder as local scrappy has a good one still in place i wondered if the wiring from the box goes to a connector, or is it the time consuming socket by socket replacement one by one.

if somebody can advise, and if displacement from no 12 to no 11 which i have seen work before but unsure where to go next, i am awaiting so sparky to return from holiday to sort it out, but any guidance would be be helpful

 

[ventech]

Melted heater fuse holders are fairly common on the W124. The heater fan draws a lot of current and the ceramic fuses tend to corrode and go high-resistance over time. The heating effect in the fuseholder causes the base to melt & recede

I have seen cars where the wiring has been modified to have the fuse in a separate holder - a good idea IMHO

Nick Froome

The W124 fusebox is a disaster. The fuseholder contacs are bare unplated copper, and the currently available fuses are marked ceramic which is a lie, with the result that as the copper corrodes, the contact resistance increases causing the plastic to melt. If it really was ceramic it would probably be OK. Also most of the fuses sold are alloy material not copper. I have connstant problemw with my fusebox with the fansm & I am going to try unbolting the useholders, turning them upside down & immersing in a bowl of battery acid to remove corrosion, then tinning the contacts with a soldering iron. I have been trying to source real ceramic fuses without success.
If this fails, I am going to design a replacement fuseboard than would drop into the original fuse box and use ATO fuses which have become a standard & are inherently more reliable. If anyone is interested in buying one, if they contact me I will keep them posted. I haven't pruced it yet, but if people have the same problems with fuses constantly blowing that I have had they will pay any reasonable price. For those who are non technical, please be assured it is not a faulty motor or fan causing the fuse to blow, it is the rubbish design of the fuseholders & cheap poor quality fuses causing the problem.