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New brake pads - which grease to use for what?

GLK

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I'm replacing the front brake pads tomorrow, all by myself :eek:

Printed WIS pages, watched YouTube video(s), borrowed a piston pushing tool - I think I'm ready!

However a question remains: which lubricant(s) do I use for:

1. Areas, marked on WIS page AR42.10-P-0161-01B for "Never Seeze Gray" (sic) paste for single piston floating TRW caliper - picture P42.-10-2737-04.

2. Back of pads, where it comes to contact with caliper / piston

3. Pins

Also, WIS says do not grease metal clips, but a number of online sources insist you must.
Whom to believe, that is the question ;)

The choice I have is somewhat limited though:

49317817971_c1f7cd5fe8_o.jpg


I presume I start from the left and go 1,2,3? :rolleyes:
 
On my bikes I used copaslip on the pad / piston interface and pins. You don't mess with your brakes on 2 wheels.
 
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I always used copper grease on the back of the pads, but I understand that MB actually has it own-brand pads paste and this is what should be used.

I'd still use copper grease (very very thinly applied) on the hub mating surfaces both sides of the new disc, and on the thread on the small disc retaining screw (but not any of the larger caliper bolts), and on the sliding bits.
 
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Mintex, Pagid and Textar are all owned by TMD friction and all sport their own branded version of the German made CERATEC ceramic based lubricant-That's the after market one I would go for if not sticking with MB. It may be helpfull to use a new tube/ sachet of whatever you use- no sense in using stuff if its been sat for years on a shelf?
 
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I thought the CeraTEC would be better for where Mercedes advises a non-metal paste ... and I remember reading somewhere that, lithium grease was better for sliding pins if they get hot (which I've no idea if they actually do in a caliper haha).

Tomorrow I might get a set of rear pads I ordered from MB - this will come with a sachet. I don't have any old stuff, as I never done it myself before :rolleyes:
 
Ceratec is shit, don't use it, it comes off the contact areas and you will get brake squeal
 
I think the issue with greasing the metal clips is the grease globs up with dust and stops everything sliding as it should. I clean out the grooves on the caliper carrier where the pads slide and make sure the clips are clean if re-using.
 
I used new clips and Mercedes grey paste - came in this morning.
Will monitor for squealing / ease of operating for the next couple of weeks, to make sure everything is okay.

Thanks everyone, appreciate your advice!
 
I thought using Copper Grease can possibly interfere with ABS sensors ? Those using it have you had any faults later on once fitted ? I bought CeraTec copper free stuff.
 

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Slider pins are white silicone grease
 
I think some MB’s have an odd sized caliper pin hex key size (can’t remember is it 7mm) , check you have one . It has probably changed to a torx on your newer car .
Small wire brush to clean the caliper channels .
Brake cleaner spray
Spare pad sensor in case you break the old one
syringe to remove excess brake fluid from the reservoir when you push the pistons back
Second car to drive to get another of something that breaks ;)
Plasters for skinned knuckles
Tea and biscuits (and someone to make them )
 
I think some MB’s have an odd sized caliper pin hex key size (can’t remember is it 7mm) , check you have one . It has probably changed to a torx on your newer car .
Small wire brush to clean the caliper channels .
Brake cleaner spray
Spare pad sensor in case you break the old one
syringe to remove excess brake fluid from the reservoir when you push the pistons back
Second car to drive to get another of something that breaks ;)
Plasters for skinned knuckles
Tea and biscuits (and someone to make them )
Yes think it's a T30 but a socket also fits and pads come with new bolts with blue locktite on. Can caliper have just one bolt removed and 2nd loose, so it can be moved up or down to access pads I wonder rather than full removal if just doing the pads as the carrier stays where it is unless removing to fit disks also or deep cleaning etc.
 
Yes think it's a T30 but a socket also fits and pads come with new bolts with blue locktite on. Can caliper have just one bolt removed and 2nd loose, so it can be moved up or down to access pads I wonder rather than full removal if just doing the pads as the carrier stays where it is unless removing to fit disks also or deep cleaning etc.
I’ve always removed both slider pins , but I think some people just remove the top one and swivel it down ?
 

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