- Joined
- Jul 12, 2011
- Messages
- 15,211
- Location
- Near Salisbury
- Car
- MX5 1.8 Sport, Range Rover 5.0 SC, BMW X1
What do you mean?
New CLS350 owner - A hello and some questions :-)
- Thread starter bluejmc2005
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2008
- Messages
- 48,639
- Location
- London
- Car
- 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 RWD / 2016 Suzuki Vitara AWD
I have no issue with the first part.
However, I am curious to understand how a car that has full main dealer service history up to a year-and-a-half ago has such a long list of issues (admittedly some being minor).
Either it has been severly abused over the past 10,000 miles, or the previous owner(s) somehow managed to get only the scheduled serving done to preserve FSH, but rejected and avoided fixing anything else that went wrong.
But, again, for a car with main dealer service history up to 18 months and 10k miles ago, the list of outstanding issues seems unreasonable to me.
That said, at £5k you have bagged yourself a deal
Numair Aidroos
Active Member
Previous owner could have driven it rough, avoided servicing costs, and paid up a tech to change the odometer reading. I almost got an A35 Limo Amg badged last year, the kid said it had 27K KM, upon checks from the dealership on the last service he had 55K KM this was 8 months apart from when he tried to sell it, and the odo read 27K KM plus a few. I backed out. Hard to tell, but thanks to Star and Xentry after each scan everything is uploaded on to MB database.I have no issue with the first part.
However, I am curious to understand how a car that has full main dealer service history up to a year-and-a-half ago has such a long list of issues (admittedly some being minor).
Either it has been severly abused over the past 10,000 miles, or the previous owner(s) somehow managed to get only the scheduled serving done to preserve FSH, but rejected and avoided fixing anything else that went wrong.
But, again, for a car with main dealer service history up to 18 months and 10k miles ago, the list of outstanding issues seems unreasonable to me.
That said, at £5k you have bagged yourself a deal
sigh
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bluejmc2005
Member
OK new engine mounts installed, and transmission mount. Garage said the transmission mount was easy, the engine mounts a little tougher especially one side. Sound from before no longer present. Had new transmission fluid and filter, and new oil and filter just in case the last owner was economical with the truth! So she has had all that, four new quality tyres, ac recharge which so far is fine and a brand new proper battery. Hopefully I'll be OK for a while now! garage said brakes and suspension all seemed fine. Genuinely cant thank all of you for your help with my entry into the world of MB!
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bluejmc2005
Member
just seen the pages of other replies - most of which went over my head!
if you still get vibration from the front get the Wheel bearings checked, they can be adjusted but it must be done properly with the float checked, mine needed it doing and tbh I did it once 3 Weeks later i had the same ( I do huge miles) so I replaced them and its been fine since.
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bluejmc2005
Member
No it's gone now, will remember this for future though!
Numair Aidroos
Active Member
Bravo. Does your car have 2 or 3 batteries?
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bluejmc2005
Member
Two, I've only changed the main one not the auxiliary yet
Numair Aidroos
Active Member
MB offers an option to opt for 1 huge battery or split. There is a way to program the car to have 1 single big battery and you may have to get another alternator as well. The single battery pack does come with a higher dyno alternator. This car will have water leaks in the trunk, the rubber lining around the trunk and tail lamps let rain water in. Have those water channels regularly air sprayed. Not related to this leak, but have all the water channels around the sunroof, and hood, and doors and windows air cleaned.
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bluejmc2005
Member
Thank you 
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bluejmc2005
Member
Few more issues. Took it for its first long drive to London today. The good first off - AC ice cold the whole way! The bad, well the shakimg/vibration came back, worse around 40mph and 50mph. So I guess the ball joint/s maybe? Worse than that, about an hour in the esp inoperative and run flat indicator o operative with orange engine light appeared. No discernable difference to the drive. Pulled over as soon as I could, turned wheel three times in each direction, turned engine off, back on, both lights gone. Started driving again, 40 mins later same thing. Stopped, same routine, this time minutes before my destination it happened again. Don't have code reader with me :-/ driving back home tomorrow I'll take it very steady then hook the code reader up, could the vibrations/shake be related? Must they be?
Oh that is bad luck and a bit depressing after getting it fixed! But saying that all the work you had done needed doing and as such is good progress. Ball joints are either worn or they are not. The vibration they cause is not likely to come and go. Fist thing first is to check the garage has put everything thing back together properly. Something could be loose which is causing the vibration and the esp to freak out.
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bluejmc2005
Member
Just got back from London, stopped 4 tikes, it drives for roughly 30 minutes before the esp and run flat indicator lights come on, regardless of driving style and road conditions. Going to have some breakfast and stick the code reader to it
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bluejmc2005
Member
Did the engine mount test again and there is still a little movement but nothing compared to how it was before the mounts were changed,wheels all seem tight
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bluejmc2005
Member
Getting P0030, P0130 and P0135 codes,can't get the esp fault to show now to check lolon historical I can see 4D30 steering angle sensor and 4B1E rotary speed and lateral acceleration sensor
ChrisEdu
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2005
- Messages
- 8,326
- Location
- By the southern sea
- Car
- E320CDi Estate - gone E320CDi Saloon - written off CLS 350CDi Coupé
My W211 had an issue with ESP warning, etc... similar to what you've described. Turned out to be a faulty steering sensor.
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bluejmc2005
Member
Tightened the wheels (only 1 could be tightened by hand with standard tool) and been out for an hour's drive and it's not come back. O want to put redstuff brake pads on so in going to get them done front and back see what difference that makes, if any. Thanks for the reply ref the wheel sensor, if it comes back I think that may be the culprit
