new fella need really honest advice on e55

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steeldonkey

New Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
15
hello guys, just want to thanks in advance for any info given!

here is the situation, i am i guess lucky enough to be looking at an e55 AMG, as my current/previous M3 has met its demise through a profound mechanical failure and is now beeng sold off for some jusy bits before being binned :(

either way a couple of cars are in the running but i wont mention those as it will confuse any one as to what im after.

what i could do with knowing is

is the e55 going to be a pain? m3 m3 spent alot of time on ramps whilst i swore at it and fixed it time after time, i have no problem with doing work on my cars but i would like it to spend more time ON the road rather than off it.

are parts insanely expensive?

what are the key area's of concern?

will insurance be a joke (i am 26) in a low risk area no points/convictions 8yr ncb

will it handle like a jelly?

just how good is the auto box?

is it better to buy at the slightly cheaper end of the market (6k 80k on clock) and have plenty in reserve for remedial work or spend more (8-9k 50k) and not worry so much about failures?

please be honest with me about this car, i have been a BMW man for as long as i can remember so Mercs are not my area, i could really do with sme warts and all info before i waste peoples time test driving them.

please be cruel but fair!!:D
 
Which model E55 are you after??
The W210 series ( older shape) or the current W211
 
Which model E55 are you after??
The W210 series ( older shape) or the current W211

At that money, it'll be the W210, and an early one at that. Look out for rust. Lots of it.
 
is the e55 going to be a pain?

are parts insanely expensive?

what are the key area's of concern?

will insurance be a joke (i am 26) in a low risk area no points/convictions 8yr ncb

will it handle like a jelly?

just how good is the auto box?

is it better to buy at the slightly cheaper end of the market (6k 80k on clock) and have plenty in reserve for remedial work or spend more (8-9k 50k) and not worry so much about failures?

Welcome to the forum and sorry to hear the M3 is no more.

I'm guessing that you're looking at a W210 E55 (previous shape without the kompressor)? If so, I think the biggest thing you should be aware of is rust. Do a search to find out more about the hotspots to look out for.

AMG parts are expensive, but there are plenty of parts that are shared with regular MBs that are more reasonable.

If you can insure an M3, I can't see why the E55 would pose a problem. Might be cheaper if anything. I think I was 29 when I had my AMG and I was surprised at the cost of insurance. I always put it down to the risk profile, as younger drivers probably go for M3s rather than AMGs, and there are ery few of them, so probably present a relatively smaller risk for the insurer. Get a quote - you may be surprised.

It won't handle like jelly, but it won't be quite as good as your M3 in the handling department.

MB make some of the finest auto boxes around, and autos compliment big V8s nicely!!

I would be inclined to buy the nicest one you can afford, and avoid cheaper cars. Try to get one which has lots and lots of history/receipts, as it's not the sort of car you'd want if it had been run on a tight budget. You may not find out where corners were cut until it's in your ownership.

All the best and let us know how you get on...
 
yes you guys are bang on its the older twin light shape w210? non supercharged 5.5l

why is rust such an issue? the car would at most be 9-10 years old seems odd that merc should have such a basic issue?

are bushings suspension components realatively robust or should i budget for replacement?

are the engines garboxes and drivline components strong? the car will most probably be used on the IOM where speed limits are not such an issue so chances are it will get driven hard, will it stand up to it?

is the rust contained to the chasis or is it mostly body peripherals?

chasis would be a bit of a concern to be honest

EDIT: also although i fully understand it will get through some petrol, what sort of consumption figures should i expect to see in mixed driving conditions?
 
Mine costs £412 to insure fully comp. That's with 65% NCD.
Rear tyres won't last you long though and make sure you put decent rubber on. The rear can be rather lively round corners, especially in the wet;)
 
the 55 engines are pretty much bomb proof if looked after properly, same with transmissions.

I don't think that there is any general recurring problems with 55 engines and transmissions


are the engines garboxes and drivline components strong? the car will most probably be used on the IOM where speed limits are not such an issue so chances are it will get driven hard, will it stand up to it?
 
Mine costs £412 to insure fully comp. That's with 65% NCD.
Rear tyres won't last you long though and make sure you put decent rubber on. The rear can be rather lively round corners, especially in the wet;)

hmm thats pretty reasonable insurance!

im used to the tyre issue! m3 = 300bhp manual no tc no acs no yaw 6 throttles= sidways in a blink of an eye!

i used to get about 6k out of 245/45/17 pilot sports

i assume about the same rate of wear?
 
yes you guys are bang on its the older twin light shape w210? non supercharged 5.5l

why is rust such an issue? the car would at most be 9-10 years old seems odd that merc should have such a basic issue?

are bushings suspension components realatively robust or should i budget for replacement?

are the engines garboxes and drivline components strong? the car will most probably be used on the IOM where speed limits are not such an issue so chances are it will get driven hard, will it stand up to it?

is the rust contained to the chasis or is it mostly body peripherals?

chasis would be a bit of a concern to be honest

EDIT: also although i fully understand it will get through some petrol, what sort of consumption figures should i expect to see in mixed driving conditions?

Look for rust under the back seat, by the battery, under the bonnet on the inner wings and on the front cross member and under door rubbers.
Apart from that, any rust should be easily noticeable.
MPG.
Mmmmmm.:rolleyes:
I can get mine from single figures if I drive it hard, to around high 20's on a run, but mine has been played with;)

MB had a rust problem with most W210's, but if it has FMBSH, it should be covered under the Mobilo warranty for 30yrs.

I've just had a complete set of rear bushes put on mine at the dealers and that is the 2nd set in 4 years.
£500 in all.
 
hmm thats pretty reasonable insurance!

im used to the tyre issue! m3 = 300bhp manual no tc no acs no yaw 6 throttles= sidways in a blink of an eye!

i used to get about 6k out of 245/45/17 pilot sports

i assume about the same rate of wear?
Mine can do anywhere between 1000 miles (ask Ian B Walker or R2D2:devil: ) or 6000 miles if driven sedately.
I use Goodyear F1's all round.
Good in the dry and the wet once you warm them up a bit.
 
Sorry did not see your budget in your in my first reply.
Look out for rust its well known in w210 series.

Other things to look out for.

1) Failing MAS/MAF.
2) Failing CATS. Very expensive to replace.

If you can afford it try get the 2000 onwards model facelift version as these are more desirable and have alot of updates in the interior.

Handling wont be as good as an M3 as it is a 4 door family car. But its pretty good for a car its size.
Insurance will be expensive as its cat 19/20 but its a 4 door car but if you can insure an M3 I dont think this will be an issue for you as well.

I agree with Bobby Dazzler get the best one you can afford and if possible 2000 onwards. Make sure you get a full service history and ensure the car was serviced at the correct intervals.
I have had mine for about 2.5 years now. They are very good cars if you can avoid the rust.

Mine has been very very reliable so far.
 
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im not keen on this one but just as an example what would you guys point out? click me

i think a very salient point has been raised above, so if i get a car with FMBSH then rust shouldnt be a problem as it would covered by the dealer?

or is it not so simple in practice?
 
im not keen on this one but just as an example what would you guys point out? click me

i think a very salient point has been raised above, so if i get a car with FMBSH then rust shouldnt be a problem as it would covered by the dealer?

or is it not so simple in practice?
It can be a pain getting it sorted out.
I'll try and find the link to the thread when I had mine done.
Makes interesting reading and will show you all the places to look for the dreaded tinworm:crazy:
Mine got sorted in the end though.
 
Here you go

If that doesn't put you off, nothing will.
I have been very happy with my car and even though I had the rust problem, it has never broken down on me.
Sure, things go wrong, but touch wood, they have all been minor and cheap to repair.
 
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**** me, thats rubbish.

so basically as per usual, dealer do everything in there power to escape paying up.

to be frank that has really put me off. i can take a bit of rust on the wings etc on the chin. but most of what was pictured there was on structural seams, and thats just not good enough seeing as any car i would be buying would have incurred more time on the road than your example it will most probably be worse.

the e55 is off the cards, i just dont want to have to deal with those kinds of issues, its just so poor.

words fail me.

thanks for all you help guys, the information has been invaluable but the honda s2000 just moved solidly into first place.

i have no intention of chasing rust in a perpetual and unwinnable battle.

thanks all for your help.
 
I have to say GRAV888 rust is pretty bad and probably one of the more extreme cases you will see. My car is ok ( touch wood), but I can understand if you are put off by it.

Good luck with whatever decision you make.
 
If you're after trouble free, fun motoring, an S2000 is a good choice. One of my friends has had one for two years, totally problem free in that time. It's not rusty either. ;)
 
an S2000 is nothing like an E55 ..

the power is weedy by comparison, and you have to rev it to bits to go anywhere fast. plus it's noisy at speed.

apples and oranges
 
an S2000 is nothing like an E55 ..

the power is weedy by comparison, and you have to rev it to bits to go anywhere fast. plus it's noisy at speed.

apples and oranges

i am well aware of that which is why i didnt mention what cars were on my list in my first point.

i will justify why they are there though although why i should im not sure.

clearly you have never been to the IOM, otherwise you would maybe understand.

there are no motorways on the IOM, just lots of twisty de-restricted roads over a mountain, clearly s2000 teritory.

however the IOM is small so when i go back home i to the mainland its loads of Mway miles this is more e55 teritory where comfort and power are a factor.

for the above reason both cars make good options but for different reasons.

i was not comparing the two as that would be stupid, both have merits, but one now has one more (not rusting).

im not a fool whn it comes to fixing cars in the mechanical sense however gaping holes developing in structural area's would not give me cause to smile, or provide me with confidence in a car which in all honesty will be driven hard (but with love).
 
It's vital you check the front spring mounts before parting with money.
A failure here at speed will require new underpants...

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=226173&postcount=4

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