New Member! W203 / C180/C200 Coupe Advice!

[0161Ste]

Hi all

New member here and hopefully a soon to be first time MB owner posting.

I have few questions in relation to the W203 coupe before I buy. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Having owned a VW Bora for the last 3 years and admired the C class coupe for a while I’ve recently been getting new car itchy feet. Now bored of the Bora and wanting a change to a smaller, more efficient* car – I’ve decided the C class coupe is the direction I want to head.

*I currently drive a diesel but cover very little mileage to the point where owning a diesel just isn’t beneficial since a lot of my miles are short journeys.

So after that slightly pointless introduction; I guess I have a few questions! And yes, a search was done but there were so many different threads with random things that I didn’t know what was common and what was something specific to that car.

I’m looking to buy a C180K or a C200K, under 10 years old, under 100k on the clock with toys and extras such as air con, cruise control, leather interior etc. In everyones experience, what would the price range be? My budget I guess would be around 4k

Is there much difference, reliability wise, between the C180 and the C200? Across the Bora range the main differences between the PD130 and PD150 is that the PD150 is famous for it’s ‘chocolate cams’, clutch problems and faces slightly more issues than the PD130 – which is the model favoured. Both are 1.9 TDI but the PD130 is definitely the one forum members most prefer. Is there anything like this with the C180 and C200?

In fact, other than horsepower, what are the differences between the 180 and 200 coupe?

Owning a VW has it’s bad points as with every other manufacturer and one of the things I noticed was common faults and issues especially across the Mk4 platform. With Golf Mk4’s and Boras, the issues were things like window regulators snapping, door locks malfunctioning, MAF sensor issues, issues with relays – and those are just the issues I had!

Are there any such problems or common problems with the 180/200? I believe there is a rust issue? Simple problems I don’t have an issue with – I do most of my own fixes on the Bora.

When viewing, what should I be looking for in particular to those 2 models?

Am I weird for preferring a manual over an automatic?!

Sorry for such a boring, long winded and no doubt repeat first post!

Any further advice and help will be appreciated!

Cheers!

:bannana:

 

[0161Ste]

I've seen this on Pistonheads... would this be a fair price? Bearing in mind I'm aware it's a trade price!

2007 07 MERCEDES-BENZ C CLASS C180 KOMPRESSOR SE SPORT AUTO (2007)

65k on the clock

Silver.
FREE 3 YEAR MOT & SERVICE PACKAGE
Central Door Locking - Remote ,Immobiliser,Alarm ,ABS,PAS,Head Air Bags - Front,Front Fog Lights,Headrests - Front/Rear,ESP,TCS,Air Bag Driver,Air Bag Passenger,Air Bag Side - Driver/Pass,Cruise Control,Adjustable Steering Column/Wheel ,Electric Windows - Front,Speakers - Six,ICE - Radio/CD,Armrest - Front,Seat Height Adjustment - Electric Driver,Seating Capacity - Five Seats,Upholstery Cloth,Computer ,Auto Dipping Rear View Mirror,Power Socket ,Body Coloured Bumpers,Mirrors External - Electric Heated/Foldi,Paint Metallic,Spare Wheel - Spacesaver,Alloy Wheels - 16in .

Used 2007 MERCEDES-BENZ C CLASS C180 KOMPRESSOR SE SPORT AUTO for sale in Greater Manchester | Pistonheads

 

[DSM10000]

Hi and welcome

The link you posted is for an automatic and you said you prefered manual transmission but I would suggest trying the automatic as they are very good gearboxes.

Post 2004 the cars had a facelift with much better interiors, revised suspension and other improvements. Rust proofing was also improved from this point so cars from 2004 onwards really should not have any problems but always check them carefully.

A coupe with leather and the panoramic roof will sell on more easily and automatics are also more popular in terms of moving the car on.

Engines have chain driven camshafts so no belt changes, like any car buy on history and condition and you should hopefully have few if any problems!

 

[pjcrypto]

I have a CLC 200K Sport Automatic and am very pleased with it.

I would seriously consider an automatic as I would not want to be bothered with the foot-on/hand-off parking-brake and a clutch and a manual shift on a hill start - must be do-able but no hands left for the steering wheel?

 

[DSM10000]

I have a CLC 200K Sport Automatic and am very pleased with it.

I would seriously consider an automatic as I would not want to be bothered with the foot-on/hand-off parking-brake and a clutch and a manual shift on a hill start - must be do-able but no hands left for the steering wheel?

Put car into gear with parking brake applied, hold wheel with left hand and release parking brake with right hand and operate pedals as normal, not sure I see your problem??

 

[0161Ste]

Thanks for the replies so far

In regards to transmission, I think automatic will be the choice. Manuals are few and far between with trim levels being sparse. I suppose when you start driving MB's you have to make that switch to automatic for comfort.

Hi and welcome

The link you posted is for an automatic and you said you prefered manual transmission but I would suggest trying the automatic as they are very good gearboxes.

Post 2004 the cars had a facelift with much better interiors, revised suspension and other improvements. Rust proofing was also improved from this point so cars from 2004 onwards really should not have any problems but always check them carefully.

A coupe with leather and the panoramic roof will sell on more easily and automatics are also more popular in terms of moving the car on.

Engines have chain driven camshafts so no belt changes, like any car buy on history and condition and you should hopefully have few if any problems!

Cheers DSM. I read shortly after posting that 2004 and after were less likely to suffer rust issues.

Chain driven is a bonus - the first thing I did when buying the car I drive now is cambelt and waterpump as a precaution. An expensive precaution at that.

What's the rear wheel drive like? Is the transition from front to rear hugely different?

 

[DSM10000]

I came from a front wheel drive Saab 9-5 with a 3 litre turbocharged petrol engine and my C320 was my first rear wheel drive car for quite some time, I admit to being rather cautious at first as I was used to the Saab and previous Audi A6 understeering when grip was diminishing and wondered if the MB would be as benign.

I have to say that after over two years driving in all conditions including snow ( on standard i.e. not winter tyres) I have not found it a problem. The car is very stable and the ESP system seems to be very good, another bonus of rear wheel drive is better steering lock and genrally more responsive steering with better feel.

 

[0161Ste]

Brilliant, thanks DSM. I'll definitely look to be taking it easy for a while once buying.

Just need to decide between 180/200 and look at the common faults now!

 

[DSM10000]

Brilliant, thanks DSM. I'll definitely look to be taking it easy for a while once buying.

Just need to decide between 180/200 and look at the common faults now!

Just make sure you drive a few, I find the handling very neutral, I imagine the 200 would be a more relaxed drive, the extra power and more importantly the extra torque would be welcome especially if driving the car loaded.

There is no shortage of cars out there so just take your time and enjoy the search!

 

[0161Ste]

Uh oh... I just started looking at CLC's...

 

[mersum1es]

I'll draw 'M271 timing chain - card' here dk:
(I know it's often overreaction, but if one knows that changing the chain 'which is not needed to change' at 60k interval, there is no problems.)

If automatic transmission, also there oils should been/need to be changed regularly. But automatic 'belongs' to MB.

Door lock actuator also has tendency to fail - not expensive DIY repair.

 

[0161Ste]

I'll draw 'M271 timing chain - card' here dk:
(I know it's often overreaction, but if one knows that changing the chain 'which is not needed to change' at 60k interval, there is no problems.)

If automatic transmission, also there oils should been/need to be changed regularly. But automatic 'belongs' to MB.

Door lock actuator also has tendency to fail - not expensive DIY repair.

Thanks for this!

I suppose there's no harm in changing the chain every 60k

 

[DSM10000]

Thanks for this!

I suppose there's no harm in changing the chain every 60k

You simply do not need to change the chain at this mileage. I am not even sure that MB specify a change interval for the chain. As long as the car is serviced regularly with good quality oil and filters meeting the correct speciifcation then chain wear should be minimal at far higher mileages

 

[mersum1es]

You simply do not need to change the chain at this mileage. I am not even sure that MB specify a change interval for the chain. As long as the car is serviced regularly with good quality oil and filters meeting the correct speciifcation then chain wear should be minimal at far higher mileages

Yes there is NO change interval for chain, as well as tranny oils are changed only once according MB. And everyone here can guess what happens how well 300k driven box works...

Generally chains are very reliable, but M271 engine chain is single row type (and if I recall right also tensioner was renewed at some point, and overall later engines last better than first ones. Different part supplier?), which really do stretch. I've posted this picture before, where chains are from left: new one, 127000km (no issues but timing offset about 5 deg), 147000km (jumped --> broken inlet valves)
http://www.mese.fi/forum/userpix/5180_IMAG1455_1.jpg

Only other MB timing chain trouble was 400CDI engines, where tensioner caused chain damages.

 

[DSM10000]

Yes there is NO change interval for chain, as well as tranny oils are changed only once according MB. And everyone here can guess what happens how well 300k driven box works...

.

I thought that Mercedes now specified transmission fluid changes every 37,000 miles on the automatic gearboxes of this era and not just a one off change?

Frankly if you did get 300,000 miles or km out of an automatic without problems then you would be doing well.

 

[mersum1es]

Yep, first 5G boxes had 'sealed for life', then MB changed it to one change at 37k (60k km), but no further. For some reasons taxis in Finland has service program where they are changes every 60k km... But they have been reluctant to change it later even asked. Luckily attitude and knowledge has been changed... and now even indies knows flushing method!

My W210 has 380k km behind, and box works like charm (knocking wood).

 

[DSM10000]

I am sure MB recommend regular changes of ATF now?

Most independants are better at changing the fluid than delers and at around £180 every 37,000 miles it is a small investment. I believe that the "sealed fo life" scenario came about to please fleet managers and to reduce the cost of maintenance during 3 years or so of fleet use as the cars were often then passed onto the secondhand market.

Your gearbox is doing incredibly well, have you had regular fluid changes? I wonder if taxis are recommended to have regular changes because of the short journeys and lots of stopping and starting with consequently more gear changing?

 

[WOODYTHEWISE]

Auto box fluid change.
I had a 40k service in July of this year. The service was carried out by the local MB main dealer. I specifically asked about the auto box fluid change. I was informed that if I was to request one, then of course they would do one, however, they further stated that ' The System' did not request one. The car in question is a CL600 2005.
The car is under Tier1 Warranty, and as such requires that servicing is carried out by a main MB dealer. I reiterated my concerns about fluid changes to the service manager. He again said "it's a matter of choice ". At the slightest sign of any problem with the box, it will be returned. I feel sure others will have different views, at this moment in time I will listen to the dealer.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK

 

[WOODYTHEWISE]

I do however change the engine oil every 3k miles. The dealer also says this is not required

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK

 

[0161Ste]

Haha thanks for the replies everybody but can we get back on topic?

Other than watching for the usual when buying i.e. service history, receipts, mechanical and bodywork etc as well as looking to change the camchain every (let's agree on) 100k and the automatic gearbox oil at around the same... are there any specific things I need to look for in regards to the C180/C200K?

Saying that I definitely have been looking at CLC's :bannana: