New sprah paint darker than surrounding area

[Tamoshanter]

Repaired a rust spot and resprayed it, however I think maybe I went a littlemover thd top and the freshly painted bit is darker/thicker than the surrounding area.

Is there a way of fixing this so it all blends in?

 

[maska]

Repaired a rust spot and resprayed it, however I think maybe I went a littlemover thd top and the freshly painted bit is darker/thicker than the surrounding area.

Is there a way of fixing this so it all blends in?

Pardon ! Please repeat !! :fail

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Is it silver? If so then this is not uncommon.

You could try again with a fresh batch of paint, and shake the can harder for longer.

Or you could try machine polishing in the hope that it softens the edges of the dark spot.

 

[dikdik]

So sanding is no good and wont "lighten" the dark patch?

@ Bobby Dazzler the colour is light blue

 

[DSM10000]

Pardon ! Please repeat !! :fail

The original post was perfectly clear except for two minor typo's that did not distract from the meaning, was there really a need to post as you did?

If you wish to be picky then "Pardon" is, in the context of your post , surely a question and therefore a question mark rather than an exclamation mark should be used?

 

[grober]

Aerosol painting [ assuming this is what you used] is a bit of an art with lots of factors effecting the end result. Light metallics especially silver are very difficult -- even for the pros with top equipment. First thing is an accurate paint match- on light metallics this means a custom mixed can with a colour mix selected from swatch sheets of colour shades. You can land lucky with an off the shelf can but the older the car/more aged the paint the less likely this is. These are not that expensive from an autopaint shop who offer this service-- Say £15 for a large can mixed to your spec. Next is surface preparation---- vital to a good result. Next a good spray environment not too humid or dusty and a warm panel will take paint better than a cold one. Then a dry run on a practice car panel[ best] or similar smooth metal surface before tackling the real thing.

 

[maska]

:

The original post was perfectly clear except for two minor typo's that did not distract from the meaning, was there really a need to post as you did?

If you wish to be picky then "Pardon" is, in the context of your post , surely a question and therefore a question mark rather than an exclamation mark should be used?

As there Isn't one on my key-board

 

[Marku]

If it is an aerosol used then I know from experience that it never really matches. I have watched them being mixed and it really is hit and miss. Manually adding ingredients visually by weight, as most retailers do, is never is never going to fully match. On the other hand just had a litre professionally mixed and the match was perfect.

 

[poormansporsche]

Ditto. When I had some paint made up recently the paint shop chopped a bit out of my old wing and sprayed it a few times to get a perfect colour match !!

 

[grober]

I think we are talking at cross purposes here. Don't think anyone is disputing a professional paint shop won't make the best job with the right equipment. It's really a question of cost V quality of result. The guy is repairing a rust spot on a W202- is he wanting to spend £150, £50 or £15 on a car that may be worth less than £1000? Depending on the colour involved a prefectly adequate finish can be achieved with a bit of practice on the darker metallics- particularly on a part of the car below eye level.
What I would say is there is a break point in cost/quality of finish above which its best to get the professionals with experience and facilities/equipment to do the job and pay the higher cost. The other end of the scale is the cheap and cheerful approach where an "adequate" finish can be achieved with minimal outlay with a little trial and error.

 

[Dieselman]

A well matched aerosol will be OK, but the O/p needs to blend it into the surrounding paint by spraying very light coats over the edge of the new paint, then lacquer over it all.

 

[Tamoshanter]

How about if I want to strip the paint I put on so as to respray. What can I use to remove the paint

 

[leicschris]

Hi

we really need to know how you repaired the area, did you use any fillers, stoppers and primer.

Then with the painting, what did you use, and how much did you spray. Did you respray the whole panel, or just the area around the repair. did you use a can, and any laquer.

I am a car sprayer, and it sounds like the repair area was not feathered to the surrounding area. Really this should be done and the whole panel resprayed and blended into the surrounding panels.

A good sprayer may decide to respray the repair area with the basecoat and then laquer the whole panel to blend the repair in, but they need to be a great sprayer as this does not always produce the best match.

Give more info on what you are repairing, where it is, colour etc and more advise can be given.

regards

Chris

 

[Tamoshanter]

I used a rust treatment product then sanded it to metal. I then applied a primer then put I think three coats I used an aerosol can that I got mixed for me at Halfords and i must say its a perfect match. I think I got it almost right had it not been for my partner brjshing against it before it was dry. I then tried to rectify this by applying an extra coat on affected area and it ended darker than surrounding area

 

[leicschris]

ok.

To remove the current repair paint, dry sand with p80 sandpaper on a block, or a DA sander if you are lucky to have one.

As I said earlier, in order to get a good match the repair area has to be feathered to the surrounding paintwork. This means you need to sand the repair edges so that it is a smooth join between the repaired area and the surrounding paint. use the flat of your hand to feel the joins and remember the rule, "if you can feel it, you will see it when sprayed" I would use 240 followed by 320 grit to feather/smooth the area.

You may need a small amount of stoppers over the repair area if it is slightly concave. stoppers is very fine filler.

One flatted and repaired, clean and degrease the area with a solvent cleaner, not water and dry. You can then spray with a high build primer, also available in a can from halfords, Upol is a good brand. Allow to dry and the area needs to be wet flatted. high build primer is thicker and helps fill any pin holes etc.

using soapy water and a rubber block, flatten the repair with P800 followed by P1200, remembering the above rule. Again, clean, degrease and dry with solvent based cleaner.

You are now ready for top coat, and here it gets harder. nearly all cars are sprayed when built using a clear over base top coat, some very old cars cellulose but i doubt yours is that old, and rarely Solid, but this is usually HGVs/buses etc so we can discount that.

Solid over base is where the colour basecoat is sprayed on the primer, followed by a clear gloss laquer to give the finish its shine. It is my guess the halfords can is either a colour with laquer finish mixed, or just the basecoat only. neither will give you a good match.

My advise would be to use the latter, ie basecoat only, spray it on, leave it to 'flash', meaning the solvent to evaporate and then spray again a clearcoat laquer, all available in can form.

The other issue in matching is to key the whole panel and laquer the whole panel so the shine is uniform. just laquering the repair area will not be as good where new laquer joins with old laquer.

with 2k paint jobs, it is possible to laquer only the repair area and blend the 'joins' by spraying a light coat of thinners at the joins, but I would leave this technique to the pro's as its not easy

Hope this helps

Chris