No ESP or Run-flat indicator: Code P2687(13)

[MilesWFB]

Good evening everyone, hope you are all doing well

This is a repost from the engine thread as I got a little confused with the topics, sorry about that...

Got a small electrical problem in my car. The ESP and the Run-flat indicator system are both inoperative.

I have a really cheap knock off OBDII scanner, plugged that in and gave me the following code:

P2687(13)
Archive (inactive)
Control unit:Engine control unit
Status: Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Fuel heater - open circuit

There is no engine management light or ABS light as I have seen similar problems with this as mine but I do not have these. Could this just be a fuse?

Thanks for any advice and help.

 

[steveq]

Hi,

I had a similar fault on my 2011 W204 C220 showing the ESP & runflat indicator were inoperative.
It showed that the ABS was inoperative too.

Mine proved to be a speed sensor on one of the front wheels had gone faulty.
It is a cable that bolts into the hub and attaches to the wiring loom.

This is the fault I could see -- C11202 "L6/1 Left Front axle RPM Sensor is unreasonable"

If it is the same fault you will need a good OBD II reader to identify the wheel.
I would recommend the iCarsoft MB V2.0 -- I ended up buying it to help for this issue. Of course it will help for other problems too.
Don't buy the older iCarsoft i980 as it doesn't cover the facelift W204 in this specific area -- I have one and found out when I tried to diagnose the issue.

That error you list above (P2687) is something to do with the fuel supply heater so not related to ESP or Runflat.

It might be worth checking you battery too as low voltage can cause spurious errors.

 

[MilesWFB]

Hi,

I had a similar fault on my 2011 W204 C220 showing the ESP & runflat indicator were inoperative.
It showed that the ABS was inoperative too.

Mine proved to be a speed sensor on one of the front wheels had gone faulty.
It is a cable that bolts into the hub and attaches to the wiring loom.

This is the fault I could see -- C11202 "L6/1 Left Front axle RPM Sensor is unreasonable"

If it is the same fault you will need a good OBD II reader to identify the wheel.
I would recommend the iCarsoft MB V2.0 -- I ended up buying it to help for this issue. Of course it will help for other problems too.
Don't buy the older iCarsoft i980 as it doesn't cover the facelift W204 in this specific area -- I have one and found out when I tried to diagnose the issue.

That error you list above (P2687) is something to do with the fuel supply heater so not related to ESP or Runflat.

It might be worth checking you battery too as low voltage can cause spurious errors.

Hello,

Yes, we have the same car (estate).

I don't have the ABS fault which is weird.

I thought maybe the OBD reader I have would not do a great job as I don't see how a fuel heater would link to ESP

That sounds good, I'll have to have a look into those scanners.

I was thinking that it could just be a fuse that links to those problems that could be blown but I have no idea which fuse it could be and I don't really want to check every single one...

Is there a way to check the battery voltage in the central display if you hold 'OK' and 'pick up'/'end call' (one of those 2) as I saw there was an active voltage screen?

Thanks so much for the help.

 

[MilesWFB]

Hi,

I had a similar fault on my 2011 W204 C220 showing the ESP & runflat indicator were inoperative.
It showed that the ABS was inoperative too.

Mine proved to be a speed sensor on one of the front wheels had gone faulty.
It is a cable that bolts into the hub and attaches to the wiring loom.

This is the fault I could see -- C11202 "L6/1 Left Front axle RPM Sensor is unreasonable"

If it is the same fault you will need a good OBD II reader to identify the wheel.
I would recommend the iCarsoft MB V2.0 -- I ended up buying it to help for this issue. Of course it will help for other problems too.
Don't buy the older iCarsoft i980 as it doesn't cover the facelift W204 in this specific area -- I have one and found out when I tried to diagnose the issue.

That error you list above (P2687) is something to do with the fuel supply heater so not related to ESP or Runflat.

It might be worth checking you battery too as low voltage can cause spurious errors.

So an update...

Cruise control stopped working today along with the ECO Start/Stop.

I had not thought about this yet but I think it might be due to the alinement being off.
On Saturday I got a suspension arm replaced and this most likely caused the alinement to be off. (the plan was to get the alinement done this coming weekend.) also, the steering wheel is off at the moment.

I am only considering this since I saw a video with a similar issue and the cause of the problem was the alignment was off and the car just thought you were constantly sliding causing the Christmas tree to light up.

Please let me know if this could be the cause of the problems I'm experiencing?

 

[steveq]

I can't help you with the suspension arm replacement causing the car to think it was sliding. I would have thought that the handling would be pretty terrible if alignment was that far off.

I have a meter which I use to check the battery voltage - actually the MB V2.0 will also show the voltage too.
My main battery is still the original and is nearing the end of life (not bad considering it is almost 10 years old).Yours might be the same.
There are two batteries - the main battery is under the bonnet and the auxiliary battery is under the floor in the boot beside the spare wheel. I presume it is in the same location in your estate - it is in my E Class estate.

 

[MilesWFB]

I can't help you with the suspension arm replacement causing the car to think it was sliding. I would have thought that the handling would be pretty terrible if alignment was that far off.

I have a meter which I use to check the battery voltage - actually the MB V2.0 will also show the voltage too.
My main battery is still the original and is nearing the end of life (not bad considering it is almost 10 years old).Yours might be the same.
There are two batteries - the main battery is under the bonnet and the auxiliary battery is under the floor in the boot beside the spare wheel. I presume it is in the same location in your estate - it is in my E Class estate.

It was only a thought with the suspension arm as I saw a video that was relatable. I'm getting the alignment done this Saturday and we shall see if the problem goes away...

Yes, both batteries are still the original, which is really good for 215,000 miles especially.

I'll wait for the alignment to be done with the small chance that it fixes it. Fingers crossed . If it doesn't then ill look into the MB V2.0.

Thanks for the help and I will let you know how it goes.

 

[steveq]

I hope the alignment resolves your problem.

Coincidentally, I just checked the main battery (the one under the bonnet) on my C Class. Mine is an 80ah 800 CCA AGM battery -- I assume yours is the same if you car is the facelift S204 with Stop/Start.
It was down to around 11.9 volts -- not too bad I hear you say given that it is a 12 volt battery.
I googled AGM batteries and can see a table where a battery at 11.9 volts is only at about 35% state of charge.

I have mine on charge now (using a CTEK charger with an AGM option).
I don't have any issues with starting or any warning lights but I do think my battery is on its last legs.

If the alignment job doesn't fix the warning messages, I would suggest your next port of call is the battery.
A cheapo volt meter will show you the volts, although if it is low then you are also looking at needing a battery charger or ultimately changing one (or both) batteries.

 

[Stratman]

Adjusting the wheel alignment could easily disturb a wheel speed sensor. They need to be correctly seated in the wheel hub, even a slight error in positioning can stop it working correctly. Get the wheels off and closely inspect them, make certain they're pushed in as far as they'll go.

 

[Stratman]

^^^Of course I meant 'suspension arm' and not 'alignment'. Replacing a suspension arm would definitely increase the chances of disturbing a wheel speed sensor.

 

[MilesWFB]

^^^Of course I meant 'suspension arm' and not 'alignment'. Replacing a suspension arm would definitely increase the chances of disturbing a wheel speed sensor.

Adjusting the wheel alignment could easily disturb a wheel speed sensor. They need to be correctly seated in the wheel hub, even a slight error in positioning can stop it working correctly. Get the wheels off and closely inspect them, make certain they're pushed in as far as they'll go.

Ok, thank you for giving me hope . I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Thanks for the advice.

 

[MilesWFB]

I hope the alignment resolves your problem.

Coincidentally, I just checked the main battery (the one under the bonnet) on my C Class. Mine is an 80ah 800 CCA AGM battery -- I assume yours is the same if you car is the facelift S204 with Stop/Start.
It was down to around 11.9 volts -- not too bad I hear you say given that it is a 12 volt battery.
I googled AGM batteries and can see a table where a battery at 11.9 volts is only at about 35% state of charge.

I have mine on charge now (using a CTEK charger with an AGM option).
I don't have any issues with starting or any warning lights but I do think my battery is on its last legs.

If the alignment job doesn't fix the warning messages, I would suggest your next port of call is the battery.
A cheapo volt meter will show you the volts, although if it is low then you are also looking at needing a battery charger or ultimately changing one (or both) batteries.

For nearly 10 years that is amazing. Yes, it should be the same.

The appointment is tomorrow midday so fingers crossed it should be resolved.

Thanks for the info, Yes definitely will have a look at the battery.

Thanks again

 

[MilesWFB]

Adjusting the wheel alignment could easily disturb a wheel speed sensor. They need to be correctly seated in the wheel hub, even a slight error in positioning can stop it working correctly. Get the wheels off and closely inspect them, make certain they're pushed in as far as they'll go.

Hello,

sorry, the alinement did fix it. It just took a while for the error messages to go away

Thank you so much for your help!!!

 

[MilesWFB]

Alinement Fixed it!!!

 

[MilesWFB]

I hope the alignment resolves your problem.

Coincidentally, I just checked the main battery (the one under the bonnet) on my C Class. Mine is an 80ah 800 CCA AGM battery -- I assume yours is the same if you car is the facelift S204 with Stop/Start.
It was down to around 11.9 volts -- not too bad I hear you say given that it is a 12 volt battery.
I googled AGM batteries and can see a table where a battery at 11.9 volts is only at about 35% state of charge.

I have mine on charge now (using a CTEK charger with an AGM option).
I don't have any issues with starting or any warning lights but I do think my battery is on its last legs.

If the alignment job doesn't fix the warning messages, I would suggest your next port of call is the battery.
A cheapo volt meter will show you the volts, although if it is low then you are also looking at needing a battery charger or ultimately changing one (or both) batteries.

Hey,

So the alignment fixed it, messages were there for the 30 min but then when the car sat for a few min when off the error messages where gone!!!

Thank you so much for your help!

Also, the Central display was reading 12.4V (not sure if that is battery)

Thanks again

 

[DSM10000]

Hey,

So the alignment fixed it, messages were there for the 30 min but then when the car sat for a few min when off the error messages where gone!!!

Thank you so much for your help!

Also, the Central display was reading 12.4V (not sure if that is battery)

Thanks again

The central battery voltage will always be lower than the voltage measured at the battery terminals due to losses in the wiring. A fully charged 12v battery will read 13.2V (6 Cells each of 2,2 V ) with the engine off and no-load and should read well over 14 V with the engine running and no load.

 

[MilesWFB]

The central battery voltage will always be lower than the voltage measured at the battery terminals due to losses in the wiring. A fully charged 12v battery will read 13.2V (6 Cells each of 2,2 V ) with the engine off and no-load and should read well over 14 V with the engine running and no load.

Ok, thanks for the advice, Thought it might be lower due to something like wiring.
Hopefully, the 12.4V(not running) equates to a good health.

 

[Stratman]

Wow! How far out was the alignment?

 

[MilesWFB]

Wow! How far out was the alignment?

Here is the before and after.

Sadly they said they could not do rear camber as there was 'no manufacture guidance'

 

[DSM10000]

Ok, thanks for the advice, Thought it might be lower due to something like wiring.
Hopefully, the 12.4V(not running) equates to a good health.

Check at the battery terminals, it is the only way to be sure.

 

[MilesWFB]

Check at the battery terminals, it is the only way to be sure.

Ok thanks