Thanks for this answer! I have taken off all the trimmings on the sliding doors and tailgate. I have taken off the tailgate lock and thanks to a really useful video (
), took it apart and verified that the solenoid is working and the micro switch can function correctly you can see it in the photo with the sliding screw removed.
With a power probe, I can lock and unlock.
Is this a rod, like a screw driver, to manually push the lock levers?
I've used this method to see if the SAM recognises the lock to be closed, that is that the hasp may not be allowing a full travel of those levers within the lock mechanism.
If the lock isn't recognised as locked when using a screw driver to manipulate, then the micro switch is at fault.
I am replacing the connector to the lock as this seemed a bit dodgy (the lock would only unlock with the fob and one of the 2 power wires seems to have a loose connection, I'm pretty sure that this dodgy wire sends the locking pulse).
I have begun on the tailgate lock as I think I read somewhere that if the tailgate lock is not functioning correctly then the sliding doors won't either.
Afaik any of those 3 rear door not being recognised by the SAM as closed, then fob locking of all 3 will be inhibited.
So if the 3 rear doors fail to lock on the fob, I then look to identify which of the 3 rear doors isn't seen as locked.
You mention "There is a motor and controller within the rear trim", I'm not sure what you mean by this.
I'm not sure if you have said, but I have assumed that you have the electric side doors. As I seem to remember you talking of dash controls than you must have them.
With rear trim removed the motor and controller sits behind the rear speaker, if you have those. If not it is near as far forward of the rear side panel as can be. Well tucked in and awkward to remove, especially as the push / pull wire rope is through to the door. These can be popped off the balls on the middle door roller btw.
Water does find its way onto those door controllers. On mine, even after sealing the side window seals, I've fashioned extra protection above them.
I can operate the locking mechanism of the sliding doors with my power probe (when the doors are open)
"There are micro switches that send open / closed signals to the SAM" this is what I am concerned about. Is there any way of testing that the wires sending the signals to the SAM are working correctly? E6 is Haynes Autofix's name for the SAM module.
I really appreciate any return on this issue!
Within the motor mechanism there is a cogged wheel, with slots.
These slots are counted as they pass sensors during the door sliding. I theorise that if there is water bridging those slots, then the counter becomes confused.
If cleaned and then as should be, a couple of open / closed cycles and the system will be counting correctly again. Although there is a resetting of this on Star, I'm not sure it is really necessary to set the door up again.
So, micro switches are often the issue. Namely the micro switch that recognises full travel of the lock pwls.
Water ingress to the controller is worth consideration, and the condition of the controller if it has been wet.
Water on the cog slots upsetting the counting of those slots, just how relative this is is only a guess.
The SAM is very susceptible to water ingress, the drainage under the bonnet and security of the under bonnet fuse, relay, SAM, ECU, TCU enclosure all being critical.
When the SAM is affected I would expect other issues also though, like lights, alarm, wipers becoming erratic.