Number Plate Screws

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davidjpowell

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 8, 2007
Messages
4,923
Location
Doncaster
Car
E350 w212 and Ford Ranger
Number Plate Screws are evil little devils.

As per usual I can't shift 'em. These can't even have been in that long. Screwdriver just tearing the head up.

I've got some grips on order for tomorrow am. Any hints or tips?

Got to do this as the new plate has been swapped over by the DVLA....

I'd rather not look pathetic at the garage - again!:fail
 
On my C230K an aluminium? screw corroded sufficiently to weld itself into the plastic insert and othing could shift it. The whole assembly just started turning. The garage had to remove some internal bootlid trim to grip the insert steady from inside. No short cuts.
 
The alloy inserts on 202s and 210s turning are a problem.
Otherwise, an alternative to accessing from screw from the rear would be to 'snap' the plate off and use mole grips on the newly exposed screw head
 
WD40? I had one on the CLK where the mounting itself broke loose from the boot panel and just kept turning. I had to remove the lining and use a set of pliers.
 
Drill them out and either :

a) manage to save the thread and fit new bolts
b) destroy the thread and use slightly larger machine screws to bite into the plastic surround
c) sticky pads
 
Get some plate surrounds then its almost impossible for the plates to delaminate.
 
I replaced mine with (ex Aprillia scooter panel) chrome allen button headed bolts.
Looks nice and much easier to remove (with the right tool)
 
KillerHERTZ said:
Get some plate surrounds then its almost impossible for the plates to delaminate.

Have some but need to get existing plates off first. Shall try tonight again...
 
Perennial problem exacerbated by the two different metals issue.......the fixing screws ''welded'' to the insert and the insert spinning within the bodywork. I cannot recall exactly what I did on the SL but I think I cut off the heads and used the protruding threaded elements as locating pins to the backing plate of the number plate holder that I was introducing. I then applied CT1 (effectively gluing the holder in place) with a couple of panel pins dabbed transversely into the blob of CT1 to act as ''locks'' (belt and braces and probably unnecessary).
The holders have been there for a few years no problem.

Mic

PS I have just remembered that I also introduced a washer to give the CT1 more ''bite''.
 
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If it is an issue of the head getting ripped up by a screwdriver not the insert spinning inside the bumper then grip them with a pair of mole grips and wind them out with the mole-ies
 
Likely wont shift... dis similar metals welded together.

So normally the female threaded grommet has to be removed out and replaced with new, or just use double sided pads to stick the new plates directly to the metal.
Looks better that way.

This time of year you will need to heat the area with a hair dryer otherwise the pads just wont stick.


I do this every day unfortunately!
 
Pick out the plastic washer behind the screw head then get the head with pliers or similar - as I did last week! That was on a plastic panel though.
 
Well they came out - with the female gromet. We'll see if they fall off. What a faf!
 
the female Gromit.

:dk:

feb19wg1.jpg
 

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