Obsidian Black - how to shine and protect?

[developer]

Hello guys - here's the project:


The paint is only three years old, but I saw Lefry's super Obsidian Black CLK yesterday and his paint is great - much deeper and smoother than mine.

He's recommending a series of Poorboys products after a clay op.

Is there a way of treating the usual stone chips while I'm at it?

Any thoughts or alternative recommendations.

I've heard good stuff about Black Hole.

I need the process/application order too please.
I'm not keen on taking a mop to the car - my simple logic says it will polish the lacquer out and leave the paint vulnerable to needing regular sealing - is this correct?

Finally, if I take the wheels off to clean them (painted, with a diamond cut face) what should I use to clean and seal them against the winter salt?

Thanks guys,

EDIT -what should I use as a wash solution afterwards please?

 

[whitenemesis]

I've used Black Hole on my CLS. It's ok but no better than Collinite 915. the Collinite seems to give the metallic more *pop*, it sparkles much better.

I've not gone too much into correction on this car but have used a DA to apply Meg's Ultimate Compound, followed by Meg's Ultimate Polish and finished with Meg's Ultimate Wax. The compound certainly knocked out the swirls and light scratches. The polish and wax, again, looked ok but the polish was a bugger to work...

You'll not polish the lacquer out unless you go really aggressive with polishing compound.

I'm sticking with Collinite over Carlack69 sealant, seems to give the best look for the effort involved!!

Regarding the wheels, again I use Carlack69 topped off with Collinite. Crap just washes off easily and I "top-up" the protection by using Meg's Last Touch spray after each wash.

I always used Meg's Gold shampoo, it doesn't strip the wax coat. After washing and drying I always wipe over with Last Touch just to boost the slickness of the wax.

 

[baxlin]

Regarding the wheels, again I use Carlack69 topped off with Collinite. Crap just washes off easily and I "top-up" the protection by using Meg's Last Touch spray after each wash.

Would you clarify where you use Last Touch, please?

I too am a great fan of Last Touch, and use it after every wash, but I've never sprayed it on the wheels, because it contains, I understand silicone, which I believe is a lubricant? And if so, I don't want a lubricant oversprayed on the brake discs.

Am I totally wrong?

Thanks

Malcolm

 

[whitenemesis]

I spray it on the alloys, face and spokes. I'm sure some must get onto the discs but just as sure this would be removed instantly the brakes are applied. The quantities are negligible.

 

[baxlin]

this would be removed instantly the brakes are applied. The quantities are negligible.

Mmm, not so sure, but thanks for the reply, I think I'll spray it onto a sponge and wipe on rather than spray, just to be on the safe side.

 

[developer]

Any more guys?

 

[mikec32]

Just finished work, let me turn my PC on and I'll quickly go through some things for you......

 

[developer]

Just finished work, let me turn my PC on and I'll quickly go through some things for you......

It's late, but thank you very much - the next few would be fine.

With an 11.00pm finish I'd get some shuteye .

 

[mikec32]

Haha un fortunately in the world of detailing theres always a late evening in the studio.

We all know black paint can be notorious to keep in good order but when it is clean, it can truely look amazing. The problem is black will always show everything and hide nothing. So iots no suprise it can suddenly look alittle different to another deep glossy black vehicle. The first thing to do is irradicate the contaminants bonded to the paint. So to begin with use a decent ph neutral degreaser and a good quality shampoo. when you have washe the car the correct way (2bm) Then give the car a chemical bath. This will remove anyiron fillings that have bonded to the glass, paint and wheels over time. Re wash the car with shampoo and then dry the vehicle. Once dry, clay the car with a decent grey grade clay and lubricant such as last touch. Once completed give the vehicle a good ipa wipedown (30%ipa/70% water) This will remove the clay sling and will surprisingly leave the car very sharp looking alone. You then need to look at the paint under a quality light source such as direct sunlight or halogen/halide lights. If the paint has holograms, trails, light/heavy swirls then this is where your problems lie. Theres two options here, either mask what you can or remove the problem permanently. To mask the defects black hole is the strongest filler glaze on the market for dark paints. But due to the lacquer on mb's being concrete it will only mask up holograms and very light swirls. If you want to remove them completely then you need to paint correct your vehicle. This involves compunding and refining the lacquer using various compunds, polishes and pads in order to level the lacquer and bring back the life in your vehicle. As for your query regarding the paint needing sealing more is a total myth. You protect your vehicle the same amount weither its corrected of not, thats a personal preference. But to be fair all cars that I correct (which for 26 months has been every car ive touched) they all have crystal lacquer protections. This is for wheels, paint, glass, leather and fabric and comes in 3, 5 or 10 year protections. These are extreamely popular as they are the strongest againt uv rays, air pollution and high ph level chemicals. So back to correction you are essentially removing between 1-4 mircrons via machine polishing but this is not a problem especially with mbs. As they are known for having one of the hardest lacquers out there and generally have 70-90 microns of clear coat between the years of 2001 and today. Know I cnat show too much as this mbclub members car is having a full write up on here soon, but this Merecdes has done 141,000 miles. It came to be about 6 weeks ago with the same problem and looked super dull. This is what it looked like:

After the full decontamination process, it was obvious what was stopping that gloss.....

Under halogens, halides and natural light it was apparent that the lacquer was heavily swirled with straight deep scratches. A couple of shots during the process:

NOTE: RIGHT SIDE REFLECTION AND DEPTH IS BACK AFTER 2 MICRONS OF LACQUER IS REMOVED COMPARED TO THE LEFT SIDE WHICH IS WHAT THE CAR CAME LIKE:

And after its all said and done, this is the outcome:

So yes as you can see this is how to get that true clarity black back on your car and how to seal it all in with the strongest protection in the world. I hope this helps you with your quest for perfection and if you need anymore help, let me know.

Kind Regards
Michael

 

[mikec32]

Or it you would like to see what black can really look like at the edge of perfection, then remove your orange peel and you will ned up with paint like this 2013 Bentley mulsanne Ive just finished

Cheers

Michael

 

[developer]

That's very informative Michael, thanks - I know the E Class in your shots and what you've done is very impressive .

I look forward to the write up.

 

[jotter22]

Michael if that does not drum up some business i dont know what will....WOW nice work.
A true master at work!

Tony.

 

[seven]

Fantastic work as usual.
I'd like to see the Golf if possible!

 

[mikec32]

Fantastic work as usual.
I'd like to see the Golf if possible!

Golf? Ah the mk II! That's Alex's who owns Elite Car Care. It's very nice and tidy!

 

[Sp!ke]

Did you have to wet sand the Bently to get it like that?

 

[mikec32]

Did you have to wet sand the Bently to get it like that?

Definitely! Bentley paint is terrible from factory. To be fair they had d.a. Sanded the car to within an inch of its life. So there wasn't one square inch that had clear clarity patch of paint. It was full to the brim with pigtails. So 10 days later, all finished!

 

[Ian Donkin]

That Merc was (and is) amazing - I should know...

Thanks Michael

 

[AnilS]

John, there's been some fantastic guidance so far, it's humbling

Black cars for me look stunning when corrected but this takes time. I spend 3 days doing my BMW!

For an "enhancement" (not correction), I can do this in a day, but I tend to wash the car, clay and rewash. All the night before and stick it in the garage, hoping it'll be properly dry in the morning.

Claying (Bilt Hammer soft) can leave marks also.

Once the above is done, I go at the car with Megs correction compound (205) with a MF pad and DA polisher. I don't posses a rotary, nor have I tried one, but I know they work faster. With a DA, it just takes a bit longer and you have a big car

Once the haze has gone, I tend to sometimes refine with Menzerna Final Finish, but normally go with Megs Carnuba Wax, applied with a soft applicator.
I find this makes the paintwork "pop"

For a more durable finish (especially for winter), I tend to finish with FK1000P sealant instead of the Carnuba Wax.

As Detailed has stated, Merc's laquer (clearcoat?) is rock hard and I'd struggle to correct mine in a day. plus my mobility is not the best these days

That said, an enhancement (wash/clay/wash/compounding/wax) can be realistically be done.

I'll update you on things soon

 

[mikec32]

Ian I will finally have the write up to your Mercedes on here next Tuesday. I know you have waited a long time and I'm sure developer will enjoy it too. Till then gentleman.