om606 - delivery valves done... wont sart :(

[MostlyMonki]

I had a bad fuel leak on my e300td om606 (caused by me not connecting the clear lines properly when i changed them).... so i figured that as i had to take of the intake mani again to do it, i may as well do the seals on the delivery valves while there (trying to sort out a longstanding air leak issue).

I did the job fairly quickly this afternoon, but once reassembled i got it running lumpy as hell (as i expected it would while purging all the air), for about 30seconds - but then it dies and no ammount of cranking could get it started again (hooked up to my running van, cranking on and off for about half an hour).

there doesnt appear to be any fuel going from the heat exchanger into the prefilter - and therefore on to the IP.

can anyone thing of anything obvious before i pull it all apart tomorrow morning and start from scratch?

 

[horgantrevor]

you have a an air lock

bleed the air from the fuel filter

 

[MostlyMonki]

thanks, fingers crossed thats all it is! whats the best way to bleed off the air?

 

[SilverSaloon]

you just need to keep cranking. Disconnect the 6 pin glowplug plug from the relay to aid this until the casr starts to grumble when it gets fuel. this will save battery and you can avoid waiting until the light goes out before cranking.

make sure there are no air leaks on the main rubber fuel pipes going into the heat excahnger aswell.

it will never start until the fuel is there, keep cranking (with pauses to relieve strain on the starter) until the fuel starts to come through.

OM606 is self bleeding you need to just crank

 

[MostlyMonki]

last time i had the clear pipes off i got it started after about 5 min.... its struggling much more this time round. killed the car battery before i hooked it up to my van - which is why i was wondering if it was something else going on.

 

[Dieselman]

As silversaloon said you need to draw fuel. Have you had any pipes off today?

 

[Ian B Walker]

Check the pre filter beside the main filter. When blocked no amount of turning over will start it. Costs about £2.50 from a good motor factor (on Sundays) or Mb during the week.

 

[MostlyMonki]

yep had pipes off, and prefilter is about a week old and clean.... I've not put a new tank filter in yet but i've got one ready. surely it would have started after 30min of cranking though if it were just an airlock? only starting issue i had before i did the delivery valve seals was after sitting for a while parked uphill (aforementioned airleak). it certainly seems as though its drawing in air though as the clear pipes arent filling while cranking...

 

[MostlyMonki]

just a thought - I've still got the nsf corner lifted on a stand. could that make it too difficult for the lift pump to get fuel from the tank?

 

[Dieselman]

It shouldn't if the fuel pipes have good integrity.

 

[MostlyMonki]

ok, some progress - got it started by putting the feed pipe into a jerry can. so guess the combination of a lot of air in the lines and a probably past-it tank strainer meant it couldnt lift the fuel.

i do now appear to still have a pretty big fuel leak coming from under the sideif the pump (i think this is the lift pump?).... about where pipe 74 goes in in this pic

does this part of the pump unbolt? and hopefully contain some seals?

 

[MostlyMonki]

never mind, i took that bit off and its a stop solenoid by the looks of it.... anyway, i replaced the old squared off o ring with a generic slightly oversize one, squashed it in, and all now working perfectly!! (i've parked uphill to see if it starts in a couple of hours)