OM642 Turbo actuator fault or stuck Vanes?

[DSM10000]

Our W211 320CDi has now dropped into a permanent state of low boost and hence low power with reduced rpm available.

I have scanned it with my iCarsoft MB 2.0 and found the following code:

2510-1 Check component Y77/1 Boost pressure regulator Positioner signals fault

I was able to clear the fault and restore normal running over the last week but the intervals between the fault recurring became shorter until it now will not clear. Normally I would just take it to my MB Specialist but they are very busy and cannot take the car in for two weeks so I am looking at other possible avenues to repair this

Is there any way to be sure it is the actuator unit at fault? On starting the engine and increasing the rpm there is no movement of the actuator arm and I cannot move it by hand although moving an electrical motor and gear by hand is unlikely to work.

I have contacted TurboVanes on eBay who lists a fully reconditioned actuator but I am losing confidence because they have told me a unit they have in stock will fit but when looking at the listing the OM642 320 Cdi 165Kw is not listed, they list a w212 195Kw e350 engine amongst others.

I have asked twice for confirmation and they either did not answer the question directly or ask for the registration number which has already been provided to them although now they have answered and said it will fit and that due to lack of staff they have not updated their listings recently.

The part number from the eBay listing is: G-13 6NW009543 Hella #184909673337 and they say it does not need recoding

This is the item: Mercedes-Benz C, E, S, M-Class Electronic Turbo Actuator G-13 6NW009543 Hella | eBay

Another possible area to explore is having a rebuilt Turbocharger fitted as the car has covered 153,000 miles, There is a company fairly close to me that offer this service and I have emailed them to see if they can offer a diagnosis and also a quote for either supplying and fitting an Actuator or a fully rebuilt Turbocharger:

They are Turbo Specialist, Turbo Repair, Reconditioning & Rebuild

Has anyone used this company by any chance?

Any advice etc most welcome!

Thanks in advance.

 

[W1ghty]

If I were you buddy , take the actuator off and spray clean the inside with electrical contact cleaner to get the carbon gunk out , put a small dab of high temp grease on the worm gear and check that the 4 (?) contacts that leave the board inside the actuator don’t have breaks in them .
Maybe an hours work at no cost . Tie some cotton around the spring clip on the actuator arm first .
Check fuse F44 in the engine bay fuse box (15amp) that controls the actuator as well

 

[DSM10000]

If I were you buddy , take the actuator off and spray clean the inside with electrical contact cleaner to get the carbon gunk out , put a small dab of high temp grease on the worm gear and check that the 4 (?) contacts that leave the board inside the actuator don’t have breaks in them .
Maybe an hours work at no cost . Tie some cotton around the spring clip on the actuator arm first .
Check fuse F44 in the engine bay fuse box (15amp) that controls the actuator as well

It was getting dark when I had a look at the actuator earlier and I couldn't get a close look at the clip.

Is it a conventional circlip or something different?

 

[W1ghty]

It was getting dark when I had a look at the actuator earlier and I couldn't get a close look at the clip.

Is it a conventional circlip or something different?

Just a split ring thingy , it just might get dropped or ping off . Well now I’ve told you, you know you will drop it

 

[DSM10000]

Just a split ring thingy , it just might get dropped or ping off . Well now I’ve told you, you know you will drop it

That is the kiss of death then!

Do you need to remove the Batwing intake assembly or just the Turbo heatshield to remove it and, does the car still run if it is removed?

 

[W1ghty]

That is the kiss of death then!

Hence the cotton ! If you have a small magnet tool that might work instead . Or I suppose a piece of duct tape might work instead ?

 

[Accused]

Its fiddly, from memory 3x 10mm, the plug and flying circlip. I doubt it will run unplugged.
They are a common failure and recon ones about £100 on ebay, I used to use Essex recons, very good

 

[W1ghty]

That is the kiss of death then!

Do you need to remove the Batwing intake assembly or just the Turbo heatshield to remove it and, does the car still run if it is removed?

Car won’t run , yes to batwing removal, no (I think) to turbo heat shield removal

 

[W1ghty]

This was my thread on my actuator issue

Wighty's E320cdi limp mode , turbo problem ?

Hi Folks , just had a pleasant drive in good weather for 200 miles back from Sheffield and the Peak District . Only problem was that the car was in limp mode , a situation which has shattered my long held belief that a shiny car is a healthy car . The problem started on the drive up , the car...

forums.mercedesclub.org.uk

 

[W1ghty]

There is a lot on YouTube for the om642 actuator as well buddy

 

[Larkone]

Turbo Vanes supplied my recon actuator - no issues with what was supplied and a 2 year warranty. I did the cleaning thing for a couple of years but at 150,000 decided to go with a recon actuator - massive improvement in drivability - smoother, quicker pick up and a significant improvement in consumption, especially on short runs 3-4mpg better.

Your actuator should activate on switching on - move the arm connected to the turbo. If it is not then disconnect the arm (don't lose the circlip) and see if the the turbo vanes move. If they are jammed then its a recon turbo/actuator. If they move freely then it is likely just the actuator.

 

[DSM10000]

Turbo Vanes supplied my recon actuator - no issues with what was supplied and a 2 year warranty. I did the cleaning thing for a couple of years but at 150,000 decided to go with a recon actuator - massive improvement in drivability - smoother, quicker pick up and a significant improvement in consumption, especially on short runs 3-4mpg better.

Your actuator should activate on switching on - move the arm connected to the turbo. If it is not then disconnect the arm (don't lose the circlip) and see if the the turbo vanes move. If they are jammed then its a recon turbo/actuator. If they move freely then it is likely just the actuator.

I tried to check the fuse for the Actuator (I know that's not the problem but was curious to see if it was intact or not.) but could not get the cover off the fuse box.

I released the sliding catch and the lid was free on the right but it wouldn't come off so I have left that for a time with better light!

 

[BlackC55]

Re-built actuators are on the whole a waste of time. Been there and got the t shirt. We ONLY fit brand new Garett turbos now. Never ever had an issue with them. We have to warrant the work so its the best or nothing. New MB turbos are silly expensive but new Garretts are not.

 

[DSM10000]

Re-built actuators are on the whole a waste of time. Been there and got the t shirt. We ONLY fit brand new Garett turbos now. Never ever had an issue with them. We have to warrant the work so its the best or nothing. New MB turbos are silly expensive but new Garretts are not.

£1871.46 for a replacement Turbo from MB plus fitting kit of gaskets etc!

How much are the new Turbochargers from the manufacturer?

 

[MBCLKsport]

I had the same issue years ago, told by various garages to replace turbo.

Did some research, opened up actuator, quick clean, put it back on - issue gone. Took less than 20 mins (didn't need to remove the bat wing or anything else). Some people reported issue of broken electrical contacts inside the actuator - check yours.

I had the issue again 2 years later - bought a kit to replace the clogs inside the actuator for about £35 at the time - been good as gold since roughly 4 years.

No gurantee this will solve your problem but a quick clean and inspection of the actuator may save you some money on a turbo.

 

[W1ghty]

I think there is a difference here between the Specialist route who absolutely have to do proper guaranteed work that won’t come back to bite them and the diy route to maybe take something apart and try and get it working for no cost and a bit of time (assuming some diy skills/time/tools of course) .

If the diy route doesn’t work then you take the next step to new whatever after that but you have lost/cost nothing by trying .
At least that’s my thinking with an older car that’s worth £2-3k . I would try everything free I could first

 

[colinallcars]

I think there is a difference here between the Specialist route who absolutely have to do proper guaranteed work that won’t come back to bite them and the diy route to maybe take something apart and try and get it working for no cost and a bit of time (assuming some diy skills/time/tools of course) .

If the diy route doesn’t work then you take the next step to new whatever after that but you have lost/cost nothing by trying .
At least that’s my thinking with an older car that’s worth £2-3k . I would try everything free I could first

That’s a very good general point which I feel is often missed in the “take it to MB” replies we often see.

 

[DSM10000]

I think there is a difference here between the Specialist route who absolutely have to do proper guaranteed work that won’t come back to bite them and the diy route to maybe take something apart and try and get it working for no cost and a bit of time (assuming some diy skills/time/tools of course) .

If the diy route doesn’t work then you take the next step to new whatever after that but you have lost/cost nothing by trying .
At least that’s my thinking with an older car that’s worth £2-3k . I would try everything free I could first

I agree but I am not spending nearly 3k to fix the car. A properly reconditioned Turbocharger is perfectly acceptable.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

Look on ebay for a used unit ,turbo with actuator , few hundred quid tbh

for eg Mercedes CLS320 turbocharger OM642 3.0 V6 | eBay

 

[clk320x]

I agree but I am not spending nearly 3k to fix the car. A properly reconditioned Turbocharger is perfectly acceptable.

Try the Actuator David I had this on my W211 and £90 on a recon actuator solved it. I remember them saying to make sure the actuator had the same ‘G’ number on it.