Oops, I think I broke it changing the ATF!

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Matt's Dad

Active Member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
168
Location
Norfolk
Car
E320CDI W211
To cut a long story short - my E320 CDI (W211) should have been going in to get the ATF and filter changed tomorrow, but is now not the case, so I bought the filter, gasket and oil from my local MB dealer for me to carry out the oil and filter change today - then the plan was to drive it to the dealer tomorrow for them to check the oil level and put it on STAR to check for any problems and carry out any resets, if needed.

I warmed the engine and gearbox, drained the ATF, and whilst it was draining I changed the transmission mount. I then removed the pan and cleaned fully, put on the new filter, put on the clean pan and new gasket, tightened to 8nm, filled with 3.5ltrs of new ATF (this is the amount the dealer told me to put in), started the engine and left to idle while I cleared up, and checked for any leaks.

When I went to take the car out of the workshop, it wouldn’t rev past 1,oorpm:confused:

Does anyone have any ideas? As I can’t drive it to the dealer as it will barely rev above idle?
 
To cut a long story short - my E320 CDI (W211) should have been going in to get the ATF and filter changed tomorrow, but is now not the case, so I bought the filter, gasket and oil from my local MB dealer for me to carry out the oil and filter change today - then the plan was to drive it to the dealer tomorrow for them to check the oil level and put it on STAR to check for any problems and carry out any resets, if needed.

I warmed the engine and gearbox, drained the ATF, and whilst it was draining I changed the transmission mount. I then removed the pan and cleaned fully, put on the new filter, put on the clean pan and new gasket, tightened to 8nm, filled with 3.5ltrs of new ATF (this is the amount the dealer told me to put in), started the engine and left to idle while I cleared up, and checked for any leaks.

When I went to take the car out of the workshop, it wouldn’t rev past 1,oorpm:confused:

Does anyone have any ideas? As I can’t drive it to the dealer as it will barely rev above idle?


Have a look at THIS thread Olly posted today.
 
Have a look at THIS thread Olly posted today.

I had a look when I came in from the workshop - I didn't pull the pipe off, like Olly did, as I was going for the 'safer':rolleyes: option of changing 3.5lts at a time - Everything seemed fairly straight forward, and went quite well:confused:

One thing I did do, which I forgot to mention was turn the flywheel to check if I had a drain bolt on the Torque converter. There wasn't one, just a blank.
 
You put 3.5 litres in. Did you measure how much came out???
 
How did you turn the flywheel ??

Used a screwdriver to turn the splines, as on the How to of Parrot of Doom

You put 3.5 litres in. Did you measure how much came out???

No, as the gearbox had had a leak, and it looked like it had been leaking for a while. I changed the Pilot Bushing the other night, then topped up with ATF and it's been fine for the last few days. As the leak was cured I wanted new oil and filter, then the level check and altered, and for any restets carried out.
 
I had a look when I came in from the workshop - I didn't pull the pipe off, like Olly did, as I was going for the 'safer':rolleyes: option of changing 3.5lts at a time - Everything seemed fairly straight forward, and went quite well:confused:

I have to say that I think you have gone about this all wrong. Why change 3.5 litres at a time? You are merely contaminating the 3.5 litres of new atf with the other 4 litres of old stuff. You would have been much better off doing it as Olly showed and cleaning everything out properly as you went along. Then you would know exactly where you were with it.

Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh, but Olly's post, alluded to above, was the way to go.

I don't really know how to help. I suspect there is not enough atf in the transmission for it to function properly, but as the levels are critical and you don't know how much is in there anyway, then you also risk putting in too much.
 
I have to say that I think you have gone about this all wrong. Why change 3.5 litres at a time? You are merely contaminating the 3.5 litres of new atf with the other 4 litres of old stuff. You would have been much better off doing it as Olly showed and cleaning everything out properly as you went along. Then you would know exactly where you were with it.

Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh, but Olly's post, alluded to above, was the way to go.

I don't really know how to help. I suspect there is not enough atf in the transmission for it to function properly, but as the levels are critical and you don't know how much is in there anyway, then you also risk putting in too much.

Olly’s post wasn’t on there yesterday when I did the oil change, so I followed the HOWTO created by Parrot of Doom. On that HOWTO there was a drain bung on the Torque Converter, but as mine is the newer version, there is no drain bung.

My local Mercedes dealer said all they do is drop the oil, change filter and add 3.5lts of ATF - I had read on other vehicles about pulling off a line and basically running the Torque Converter out of oil, but I didn’t feel happy about doing this. My dealer didn’t have time to do the oil change, but offered to check the level when I had completed it.
 
Did the gearbox move[e.g. droop] at all when you changed the transmission mount? Wonder if some electrical connector got moved?
 
Still confused! I’ve borrowed a dipstick from my local dealer, used an infrared thermometer, got the transmission to 80oc, checked with engine running, and the level is correct.

I put another filter on, and changed the fluid again to re-check what I did yesterday - before getting a final fluid level. I also put the old Transmission mount back on, incase it was something to do with the angle, but it was still the same.

The car still won’t rev past 1,000rpm - but oddly when the engine is warm, it will be rough upto 1200rpm, then will be clear upto 3000rpm. I managed to drive it for a short distance, it was horrible pulling away as it was trying to cut out, but if revved harder it could get the revs up and pull away. It then came up on the screen with ‘ESP Defective’ and the check engine light came on.

The guys that work on my trucks seem to think it could be a crankshaft position sensor (or similar), and they think it is just pure coincidence that it has happened after I changed the fluid (I’m not so sure though, as it was running fine before)

I going to take back the dipstick, and I’ll see when the dealer can look at it
 
In the area you were working, so that you flush your auto tranny you may have accidentally pulled a connection of the λ sensor or caused a damage to that!
You shoulf get it on Star or with an OBD reader get the codes!
I hope it will be a simple and quick solution!
 
Used a screwdriver to turn the splines, as on the How to of Parrot of Doom

check to make sure that you have not moved any of the splines out of alignment. they are used by the CPS for timing and will stop the engine from revving if not where they should be
 
Thanks for all the replies, it’s good to get some ideas!

I’ve checked an re-checked any plugs or connectors that are near to where I was working, and I’ve looked around the area of the transmission mount, and can’t see any sensors or plugs nearby.

I also checked all the splines, as when the guys in my workshop said it sounded like a crankshaft sensor (only guessing, while holding their cup of Tea!) I had a horrible thought that I’d damaged a spline, so checked every one, and all were ok (I thought they would have been, as it didn’t take too much effort to turn)

I might try calling some independent companies tomorrow, as my local dealer cant look at until Thursday:(

Also, my Wife only mentioned to me about an hour ago:rolleyes: - that a few times yesterday (before I changed fluid) the car took a while to start, she said it turned over a lot longer than usual?
 
^ maybe problem is completly un related to the oil change and more to do with sods law. I'm guessing you need any codes read and the problem should hopefully be an easy fix.
 
I had the car plugged into a diagnostic system today at a car mechanic place that is about 2 minutes from my house (I had to drive the car there at 900 rpm!) - I still have the car booked into my local MB dealer later this week, as I want it on the STAR machine.

It read that the Crank sensor is faulty, and also the Turbo boost sensor. I was thinking of replacing the crank sensor before it goes over to MB, to see if it is that or not - and it will be easier to drive it there, rather than trailer it there!

I think I’ve found the CPS near the starter motor, going into the side of the engine/transmission bell housing , with a square looking cap or end, and one screw holding it in place - Is this the right one? And is it just a case of undoing the screw, unplugging the old one, and replacing with the new one (obviously while taking most of the skin off my hand!)
 
yes thats the one. .but normally the car will not even start if this is faulty.

when my CPS failed, the car would start and run as normal - until it got hot (at tickover or slow moving traffic) when the engine would cut out and not restart until the engine had cooled a bit.
 
I fitted the new CPS today, and we have lift off!:bannana:


The car starts and runs perfect, it was a pain in the backside to change, and my hands are now sore, but worth it in the end.

It’s still going into MB to get plugged in, and they are going to reset any old faults, and call me if any new or active faults are present.

Thanks for all the input, this site has been a great help - It did give me a real feeling of satisfaction when I took it out for a drive, the car felt so good, I didn’t want to come home!
 

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