part number needed for 1994 (facelift W124) E300D balljoint

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

SilverSaloon

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
7,758
Car
1994 W124 E300D Estate, 1985 R107 280SL
Hi

Does anyone know the MB part numbers for:

- W124 lower balljoint
- nut that goes on the balljoint (unless its included?)
- nut and bolt that secures the balljoint by passing through the notch in it

Thanks in advance!!

Derek

p.s. guess what gawd awful job i have planned for this weekend after MOT faliure :( - both sides! :wallbash:
 
Just had the originals changed on my e300d after 280k miles - made a big difference to the feel of the steering - much smoother now and made the car much nicer to drive - mine must have been slowly deteriorating over time and I had not noticed. I did not do them myself but understand it was a "bit of a job". I think you will need to remove the lower arm complete - and they may need to be pressed out on the bench.
 
find a good Indie with the correct tool and the job can be done in situ in a jiff.

much lower labour cost with the correct tool, and the geometry will not be disturbed.
 
thanks, poss going to garage but will try myself 1st via the various DIY tutorials on the internet.

but I need to order the parts, whether garage does or not (as want genuine MB parts) hence the need for the part numbers.

cheers

derek
 
its OK i ended up phoning the $tealer with the reg number for the parts.

£75 for 2 balljoints and 2 new securing bolts. :eek:

£8 each or so buys non-genuine ones on ebay - but I think genuine MB balljoints are worth fitting
 
Sorry didn't have access to the paperwork earlier in the week.
Just checked my invoice - part number 124 333 03 27 £25.40 +VAT for the pair - genuine MB in march 2010.
Thats inflation.
 
Hi

I got them from MB dealer - x2 balljoints and x2 securing nut and bolt. a shade under £70 with "club" discount applied.

The job went pretty well, no press or anything either.

I took the springs out as wanted to fit new ones (one spring was sagging anyway and found the other spring had broke at the top) as I wanted to try my new telescopic spring compressor anyway.

Then I moved the hub out the way and hacksawed the bottom of the balljoint and after a blow with a hammer, the innards fell out. I then carefully hacksawed a cut in the shell which allowed the balljoint shell to be hammered out.

I then pressed in the new (frozen overnight) balljoint back into the cleaned up LCA using my trolley jack and one of those BMW foot stud things which was a good size to push in the joint and worked well. Several blows with the hammer onto the top of the LCA gradually knocked it in.

I got the above DIY from "the other side" forum and it worked a treat.
 
Hats off to you Derek. How goes the house conversion?

CHEERS

Good thanks - living in it now as we continue to renovate, but plenty still to do. Busy year ahead.

My SL and mini are currently in a derelict barn under a gazebo! Still, better than out in the rain!
 
by "BMW foot stud thing" I meant BMX as in the bike. No BMW parts on my Merc!!! The things a kid would stand on as you give him a "backie" on your BMX. Alternative is a 32mm or a few mm bigger socket, which I also started to use but the BMX stud thing was strong and fitted well.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom