Pitting and peeling lacquer on my red one

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You need to click to page one buddy. :p
 
What was the importance of having the door shuts done pondman?
Was this because the problem was there or just to ensure it doesn't happen ?
I'm pretty sure mine will not be getting done, all I know is it's a 80% respray and it will look like brand new (not that it was bad before the blisters)
Because I'm a perfectionist and don't take bad or poor workmanship lying down, I explicitly said from the start that I'd not be happy unless it was a "full respray". That, in my books includes all of the external panels to the internal seams, i.e. where the seal goes around the door openings and the bonnet/boot seal. It then has no raw edges and or difference between original colour and respray, and you'd be hard pushed to see that it has been resprayed as the the whole of the exterior of the vehicle is ONE colour and age of paint.
In other words "a proper job!" :thumb:
 
Because I'm a perfectionist and don't take bad or poor workmanship lying down, I explicitly said from the start that I'd not be happy unless it was a "full respray". That, in my books includes all of the external panels to the internal seams, i.e. where the seal goes around the door openings and the bonnet/boot seal. It then has no raw edges and or difference between original colour and respray, and you'd be hard pushed to see that it has been resprayed as the the whole of the exterior of the vehicle is ONE colour and age of paint.
In other words "a proper job!" :thumb:

Shouldn't a good body shop do that anyway ?
If I can tell mines been painted when I collect it they can keep it.
 
Shouldn't a good body shop do that anyway ?
If I can tell mines been painted when I collect it they can keep it.
No! As when I discussed the "other" Mercedes they had in, they had been told to blend the spray/clear coat, them mop out the join :crazy:
Also because it is a back to bare metal process, there is more time involved the more paint is removed, so the less paint removed, the less time spent/charged.
It would seem that if you take it "in house" they are more likely to want to do as little to keep costs for the company down, simple business sense realy! Also all parts/seals are sourced at MB to dealership prices not trade to trade prices, therefore a further saving QED......
 
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Mine did that too, but not the actual door shuts, as that's a doors off job, they'd have had to remove the wiring loom, etc.

You can't see or feel any 'lip' at the edges, and the paint on the sealed off inner parts when you open the door is still perfect from the factory as whatever causes the peeling lacquer hasn't touched those parts.

Not that many of you are around my way, but if you are, you're welcome to come and inspect their work on my car, especially if you're using the same bodyshop.
 
You can tell if you have a "Ceramiclear" top coat if the letter "C" is in addition to the paint code number on the vehicle detail sticker on the driver's door opening. I think it was a more modern finish though. And only applied to to top end models above the C-Class. (Having now read the 12 pages of detailing forum chat on the subject) :rolleyes:

Now I'm a tad confused, is the most part of this thread discussing a w204 'c' class ??

So not a "top end" model but has the issue ?

so a 590 on its own paint code no letter 'c' on a fire opal red facelift 2011 car should not have said iffy paint ??

Sorry written bit tongue in cheek but am really confused now, how many different fire opal paints and finishes are there ? :crazy:
 
That's very generous of you. :D

I think I'm allowed a sense of humour failure as im now at the point where half the duration of my c class ownership it's been sat at the dealer having the paint rectified.

If it's not perfect I don't want it, that's why I chopped in my 180k old 530d as it was starting to get tired.
 
I cant believe that 'orange peel' on the boot came out of the factory? I would not have accepted that on a £10k car, let alone a Merc...
 
Now I'm a tad confused, is the most part of this thread discussing a w204 'c' class ??

Yes, it seems to the worst effected model + some SLK's

So not a "top end" model but has the issue ?

"Top end" models were offered the Ceramiclear clear coat as an option, as to which exact models it depends on the country of supply

so a 590 on its own paint code no letter 'c' on a fire opal red facelift 2011 car should not have said iffy paint ??

No "C", No Ceramiclear.
There is no link that I can see with a Ceramiclear clear coat and micro blisters. Personally, I think, after doing a lot of reading into this issue, it is (the blistering) caused by a reaction between the red paint and the clear coat when exposed to harmful UV light from the sun. I also think that if the car has been "prepared" for sale by mopping the paint, that it thins the UV defence of the lacquer top coat therefore allowing more harmful UV to penetrate the surface and cause a reaction between the two applied coatings. This is all supasition and only has grounds of understanding in other peoples experiance/knowledge and good old fashioned logic ;)


Sorry written bit tongue in cheek but am really confused now, how many different fire opal paints and finishes are there ? :crazy:

One, that I know of

Please read here for further interest > http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/47152-ceramiclear-paints-careful.html

I can see no link in the argument/suggestion of "moisture in the paint shop application process" being the reason for micro blistering. The coralation of the effected vehicles is too scattered in model type, age of vehicle effected and location of cars with this issue (global). I could understand it if all of the vehicles effected were made during a set run from one factory, at one time. But this is clearly NOT the case. The issue is too scattered in pattern to be that (in my opinion). I think it has a lot to do with vehicle bodywork preparation, maintenance, UV exposure and atmospheric moisture levels.

Happy to listen to others opinions, just using that other rare commodity, common sense ;)
 
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^ Probably not. Although I read it as a rhetorical exasperated statement rather than a serious question, hence my jokey reply... :confused:

Good News!

The dacia sa..

I went to the dealership on my lunch break. Martin the bodyshop manager came and fitted my shiny new wing badges, then I raise the concern over my cills having not been painted. I shown him the peeling lacquer on one, and it's starting on the other.

He did the cello tape test (as can't do paint depth check on plastic parts) and took pictures. He's going to do another warranty claim for the cills to be painted too. Also I'm getting a tour of the bodyshop when I take it in.

He was very open and honest, and can't understand why other dealerships are faffing around with customers. "It's all part of the care process" he said.

I think he's a credit to that dealership. Unfortunately all of them aren't like that.
 
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^ Probably not. Although I read it as a rhetorical exasperated statement rather than a serious question, hence my jokey reply...

He was very open and honest, and can't understand why other dealerships are faffing around with customers. "It's all part of the care process" he said.

I think he's a credit to that dealership. Unfortunately all of them aren't like that.
We'll soon see if he is......?
Good news on your semi completed car ;)
As your bodyshop guy says, there are some garages out there who simply don't understand....!
It would certainly be a body shop to recomend to others if they're "up norf" ;)
"Down saff", as it's now know, we seem to have a lack of understanding of customer service :doh:
Although I have to say that Paul at Dartford Mercedes is fighting my corner for me and achieved the remaining car spray work funding through MB UK.
 
Read through all of this and the linked articles , thanks guys info on this is never ending but you have helped to point me in the right direction and put my mind somewhat to rest.

My car it seems should not develop this fault in the paint as being a 'lesser model' :D (can't believe for once I am happy about that) it according to what I have gleamed has not been painted with the Ceramiclear coating on top as my paint code 590 does not have the dreaded 'C' any where to be seen before or after the 590 ;)

So I am hoping that with the love and attention I am going to shower my 'pre enjoyed' Mercedes with (already brought new wheels and reverse camera) I should have many years of happy shiny inya face bright red non pealing enjoyment :bannana:
 
Our SLK is going back to mb finance monday 11th so I've given it a. good clean and had to t-cut a load of tar spots off & touch up same paint chips. The t-cut left some dull patches so I gave it a quick wax this morning. In doing that I noticed the boot lid is covered with the micro-bubbles.............
 
I didn't realise there might be a difference in the paint and or lacquer between 220 and a 280? Will have to look into it. Either way, I've got a 10 day old paint job, with a full new warranty and can alleviate any future potential buyers' concerns over the issue with the receipts etc I now have, so in all, it's the best thing that could have happened to the car. :D
 
Read through all of this and the linked articles , thanks guys info on this is never ending but you have helped to point me in the right direction and put my mind somewhat to rest.

My car it seems should not develop this fault in the paint as being a 'lesser model' :D (can't believe for once I am happy about that) it according to what I have gleamed has not been painted with the Ceramiclear coating on top as my paint code 590 does not have the dreaded 'C' any where to be seen before or after the 590 ;)

Sorry to burst your bubble Mickey, but Ceramiclear is probably a better coating than the "standard" lacquer clear coat on our UK spec C-class' :(
Ceramiclear, if you read is a nightmare for the detailing community as it is very difficult to get a good result from TLC. But as a showroom finish and going forward it seems to have no relavence to the micro blister issue that Opal Fire/Mars Red suffer from. So I would still treat your paint with care and keep it out of much strong direct sunlight where possible.
You could protect the paint with a paintwork sealant that helps to shield the UV from your car such as this: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
It would seem to be the best for red cars as it has had excellent reviews and "jets" the light. Which is the bending of light to give red the best looking luster :cool:
 
Our SLK is going back to mb finance monday 11th so I've given it a. good clean and had to t-cut a load of tar spots off & touch up same paint chips. The t-cut left some dull patches so I gave it a quick wax this morning. In doing that I noticed the boot lid is covered with the micro-bubbles.............

Now noticed it on the bonnet & wings - glad it's going back soon:crazy:
 

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