Please help with my W124, REALLY DESPERATE!

[peg0r]

Hi everybody

got a few problems with my 1994 (facelift) W124 e220.

I got the car very cheap after it spent a couple of years sat in a damp field covered in mould.

A - I have a problem with starting. Sometimes, when you turn on the ignition, you get that buzz noise, then turn the key,

start, fires. Other times, no buzz, wont start.

What is this, a bad fuel pump?

B - I have a problem with the transmission. Basically, the box works great, smooth, perfect. BUT, last night it wouldnt shift

out of park, nothing would make it move, like when you dont have your foot on the brake or what not. So what I did was try

and free of the shifter, to no avail. Then, I disconnected the linkage, and then fiddled some more and it seemed to loosen

off. I think there is a problem with the shift lock. Its locked again tonight, and i've tried removing the linkage and

freeing it, no joy. Am I missing somthing obvious? the key wont realease either but it will still start, somthing it should

only do in P. I am so lost.

Has anyone removed this or had a similar problem? Very grateful for any advice you can give.

Regards

Michael

 

[Brabus3.6]

Hi Michael,

As far as A is concerned it sounds more like a faulty fuel pump relay to me. Either that or damp has set into some wires, likely to be the ones at the fuel pump under the car and so most exposed to it. Such testing maybe done with a multimeter and a little thought although with any luck it's the relay.
As for B I'm not so sure. As I understand it yo must have your foot on the break and the ignition to be at least in the accessory position to move the gearbox out of park. I'm not sure exactly how this system works as I've never had a problem with it but I'd guess that it's electronic and that once again it's some bad connections due to damp.
Regards

 

[Asif Kazani]

As stated, in the first situation, it could be the connections to the fuel pump, the fuel pump relay or just a thought, as I am sure you changed the fuel filter before putting the car back in service, you might want to do it again since residue starts to build up in the fuel tank if fuel sits in there for a while. The second situation is your neutral safety switch or shift lock solenoid at the brake pedal, which could be faulty or damp wiring as mentioned by Brabus3.6.

Regards,
Asif.

 

[grober]

If its as bad as you say I would be inclined to partially strip the interior. remove the seats carpets some trim especially below the dash. get the car out in the sun when the weather is hot ( this is the right time of year to do this) bonnet up vertical, boot open, doors open, give it a good "cooking" to dry it out. In other words give air a chance to circulate to all the potential damp traps. Make notes (digital camera pics invaluable here)as you go along so you can put it all back again. All the suggestions so far are on the money for the immediate faults. Replace all fluids and filters engine oil ,transmission fluid ,ESPECIALLY brake fluid and power steering fluid. Drain the petrol tank of old petrol also. Now you know why it was cheap!

 

[Sp!ke]

Fuel pump relay as stated above and potentially it could be something as simple as your brake light switch which triggers the mechanoism for getting it out of Park.

 

[stats007]

I'm not sure if these diagrams will help - they are of 722.6 and 722.3 transmissions. The reverse / park solenoid could be tested first? Not sure if it is reliant on the vacuum system?

 

[MDMB69]

Problem A may also be the throttle accuator, mine buzzes with igintion on, I know its faulty cos the cruise surges.

 

[Gollom]

Or have a few days in sunny Blackpool and get Ian B Walker (of 124Works and member of this esteemed forum) to maybe work some magic. At the very least you will get an honest and informed opinion as to if it is worth fighting for or if you should cut your losses now

Hope this helps

 

[Ian B Walker]

I would go with fuel pump relay too. Good advice offered in drying it out. As for the locked gearbox. I can only think of the cable that goes from the ignition switch to the change mechanism that has siezed.

 

[peg0r]

Okay, any idea how I should unsieze the wire?

The box is fine, I can manually change gears on it

the brake pedal cable Is ok as when I push the brake I hear it move within the cable shroud

I see the other ignition to shifter cable you mention, how would I unsieze it or gain access to adjust it?

Kind regards in advance

Michael

 

[big x]

I'm not sure if these diagrams will help - they are of 722.6 and 722.3 transmissions. The reverse / park solenoid could be tested first? Not sure if it is reliant on the vacuum system?

No,the electronic 722.6 was not fitted to the W124.It was introduced mid 96 on.

adam

 

[big x]

Could be the starter lockout relay K38 which is often behind the instrument pod.
http://www.190revolution.net/prem/skiier3_9/E320/94 E320 Ignition Schematic.pdf
To test short pins 30 and 87 and see if it starts.
Check fuse no.5 in the engine fusebox and also for cracked insulation on the wiring harness that runs from the bulkhead to the starter solenoid which can often perish.

adam

 

[Dieselman]

Okay, any idea how I should unsieze the wire?

The box is fine, I can manually change gears on it

the brake pedal cable Is ok as when I push the brake I hear it move within the cable shroud

I see the other ignition to shifter cable you mention, how would I unsieze it or gain access to adjust it?

Kind regards in advance

Michael

The boolean cable runs from the brake pedal via a crank mechanism and to the gearbox.

This is what I would check as it is the mechanical lock to hold the car in park.

Just a thought, you are pressing the brake when trying to move the stick from P aren't you?