Poor, poor battery - Mercedes Me adaptor drain?

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LXA

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Dec 2, 2019
Messages
271
Location
Cornwall
Car
ML500
Over the last 4 months I have done minimal mileage in me ML500 (W164, 55).
All journeys have been mostly single mileage - 5-10 miles, couple of times a week.
Checked the charging via my Mercedes Me adaptor a couple of times and shows 14+v, so I'm assuming charging ok.

Today, various messages and general unwillingness to work correctly. ABS unavailable, see owners manual, ESP unavailable, see owners manual, ABS defective! Visit Workshop!, ESP defective! Visit Workshop!, Run Flat Indicator unavailable!, Active light system inoperative.
I managed to bravely (gently, gently) drive home after another sub 10 mile journey to collect strawberries & cream (clotted)

Initially suspecting fuses I had a look around and came across threads about low battery voltage causing randoms.
Found out how to check battery voltage via 3 x resets against mileage display on console, only to find it flickering between 11.7 - 11.8v - this seems to be recognised as a totally discharged battery. Strongly suspect the battery may need replacing anyway but attempting a recharge to see what happens.

Now while I'm happy to put my hands up and say yup, I'm at fault for not getting a few longer runs in over the last few months, I was wondering if the Mercedes Me adapter I had installed f.o.c. last December would take anything off the top of the battery during prolonged periods of minimal hard usage ? - I have noticed, when checking the app in the house that it shows the adaptor being investigated at a time when I'm neither in the car, nor interrogating the app, via a timestamp of last communication.
 
Had a battery drain on my 2008 ml, it was a faulty auxiliary battery, replaced it and all is good
 
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I have the Mercedes me Adapter, fitted it 3 years ago, it lives under the dash (connecting to the OBDII port via flat extension cable), and never had an issue with battery drain, not even during the lockdown.

This is not to say that your adapter isn't faulty and consumes to much power... just that a healthy adapter shouldn't affect the battery.
 
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Starting a big battery for short runs will take it’s toll. Try a battery conditioner before splashing out on a new battery. You may be surprised by the result.

The CTEK MX5.0 is well regarded (I use one on my W164 ML) at around £70 but prices vary up and down. It reconditioned my dead battery (lack of use in lockdown).

Lidl and Aldi have similar units which are also well regarded. I had one but I found it lacked the oomph to charge a couple of standby batteries (the CTEK managed).
 
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Starting a big battery for short runs will take it’s toll. Try a battery conditioner before splashing out on a new battery. You may be surprised by the result.

The CTEK MX5.0 is well regarded (I use one on my W164 ML) at around £70 but prices vary up and down. It reconditioned my dead battery (lack of use in lockdown).

Lidl and Aldi have similar units which are also well regarded. I had one but I found it lacked the oomph to charge a couple of standby batteries (the CTEK managed).
Thanks for that - I've decided to give this a go - Got one from Amazon as I had a £10 gift voucher sitting in my account with nothing to do so £58, delivered on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes - cheers
 
Thanks for that - I've decided to give this a go - Got one from Amazon as I had a £10 gift voucher sitting in my account with nothing to do so £58, delivered on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes - cheers
I’m sure it will be worthwhile. I don’t leave my cars permanently hooked up but it’s handy when they’re not being used 👍🏻
 
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Over the last 4 months I have done minimal mileage in me ML500 (W164, 55).
All journeys have been mostly single mileage - 5-10 miles, couple of times a week.
Checked the charging via my Mercedes Me adaptor a couple of times and shows 14+v, so I'm assuming charging ok.

Today, various messages and general unwillingness to work correctly. ABS unavailable, see owners manual, ESP unavailable, see owners manual, ABS defective! Visit Workshop!, ESP defective! Visit Workshop!, Run Flat Indicator unavailable!, Active light system inoperative.
I managed to bravely (gently, gently) drive home after another sub 10 mile journey to collect strawberries & cream (clotted)

Initially suspecting fuses I had a look around and came across threads about low battery voltage causing randoms.
Found out how to check battery voltage via 3 x resets against mileage display on console, only to find it flickering between 11.7 - 11.8v - this seems to be recognised as a totally discharged battery. Strongly suspect the battery may need replacing anyway but attempting a recharge to see what happens.

Now while I'm happy to put my hands up and say yup, I'm at fault for not getting a few longer runs in over the last few months, I was wondering if the Mercedes Me adapter I had installed f.o.c. last December would take anything off the top of the battery during prolonged periods of minimal hard usage ? - I have noticed, when checking the app in the house that it shows the adaptor being investigated at a time when I'm neither in the car, nor interrogating the app, via a timestamp of last communication.
I had a similar experience with my X3 when I forgot to put my smart charger on during lockdown. A useful discovery was that the battery on that and the SL discharge more slowly when the cars are not locked in the garage with alarms etc. running. Since the garage is always locked I no longer lock the cars when they are not being used often.
 
I had a similar experience with my X3 when I forgot to put my smart charger on during lockdown. A useful discovery was that the battery on that and the SL discharge more slowly when the cars are not locked in the garage with alarms etc. running. Since the garage is always locked I no longer lock the cars when they are not being used often.
Good point. Unfortunately I can't fit this monster in my teeny-tiny 70's garage (built when cars were a reasonable size) - I must admit every time I climb in this one, lights come on, seats and steering column move into position, air conditioning blats out and half a dozen other things, all before the engines running and I'm thinking there goes a little more of the battery each and every time.
 
I’m sure it will be worthwhile. I don’t leave my cars permanently hooked up but it’s handy when they’re not being used 👍🏻
I'm assuming I can connect it to the charging / jump points under the bonnet and don't have to access the inaccessible battery under the drivers seat ?
 
Good point. Unfortunately I can't fit this monster in my teeny-tiny 70's garage (built when cars were a reasonable size) - I must admit every time I climb in this one, lights come on, seats and steering column move into position, air conditioning blats out and half a dozen other things, all before the engines running and I'm thinking there goes a little more of the battery each and every time.
You can disable the lights show in the Settings/Lights menu and turn off the aircon before you press start but would not want to turn off the comfort settings every time. The charger can be connected to the terminals under the bonnet.
 
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I'm assuming I can connect it to the charging / jump points under the bonnet and don't have to access the inaccessible battery under the drivers seat ?
Spot on. The live post beneath the red cap on The far left of your engine bay (drivers side) and the earth post a foot or so forward of that.
 
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Spot on. The live post beneath the red cap on The far left of your engine bay (drivers side) and the earth post a foot or so forward of that.
Brilliant!! Fantastic!! - worked a treat - many thanks for the heads up for the CTEK - Arrived at 1245, read manual - on car for 1315.
Went through 1,2 &3 in seconds, then worked its way through the rest up to 6 over the next couple of hours. Left it on trying to get to full charge but had to go shopping (no food in house, I'm starving, time for weekly 'big shop'!!) so switched off at 1900, by which time it was at 12.2V.
No problem at all - error codes from yesterday were in the log but disappeared by the time I got back home.
I will drop it on again tomorrow to get to full charge and see how I go from there.
Discovered something I hadn't seen in the menus before when I was checking the battery voltage out - battery voltage real time(!!), VIN, Service schedule and a couple of other things I can't remember, all under the mileage page - every day's a school day!!
BUT, thanks again - battery seemed to respond really well to the CTEK and I can now regularly condition the battery and keep it topped up when necessary.
 
Which CTEK would be the right one for a CLS500 4.7 V8 TT?
 
I used the MX 5.0 as recommended.
Cars a 5l V8 and I believe the battery is 850cca ( whatever that is?) - I imagine it's more about the battery rather than the car. No doubt someone'll be along in a mo' that knows what they're talking about 😁👍
 
Cold cranking amps.
An indication of how it will perform under load when it is chilly out there (when battery performance is at its worst).
that should be sufficient to start a small nuclear generator so plenty of ooomph for what you need :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
 
Which CTEK would be the right one for a CLS500 4.7 V8 TT?
If your battery is either lead acid or AGM (a fancy lead acid) then then the MX5.0 the one to go for. Yours is probably AGM but worth checking.

As long as it’s not a lithium battery (very unlikely) then the MX5.0 is the one to go for.

CTEK sell a 7 and a 10 which would charge your battery a little quicker but they’re quite a lot more expensive and for occasional home use you’re unlikely to see the benefit.
 
Brilliant!! Fantastic!! - worked a treat - many thanks for the heads up for the CTEK - Arrived at 1245, read manual - on car for 1315.
Went through 1,2 &3 in seconds, then worked its way through the rest up to 6 over the next couple of hours. Left it on trying to get to full charge but had to go shopping (no food in house, I'm starving, time for weekly 'big shop'!!) so switched off at 1900, by which time it was at 12.2V.
No problem at all - error codes from yesterday were in the log but disappeared by the time I got back home.
I will drop it on again tomorrow to get to full charge and see how I go from there.
Discovered something I hadn't seen in the menus before when I was checking the battery voltage out - battery voltage real time(!!), VIN, Service schedule and a couple of other things I can't remember, all under the mileage page - every day's a school day!!
BUT, thanks again - battery seemed to respond really well to the CTEK and I can now regularly condition the battery and keep it topped up when necessary.
Sounds promising 👍🏻
 
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Sounds promising 👍🏻
It was/is, just one query.
Reconnected it this morning and got all the way up to 7 (green) on the pretty lights.
I checked the voltage on the dash reading and came up as 11.9v - checked it across the posts under the bonnet and showing 12v.
As I got a green light on the CTEK I'm assuming it's all good as far as the clever box is concerned but thought that a good fully charged battery would sit around 12.2v and 11.9 is discharged. Am I getting these readings because of the background drains pulling it down and the battery disconnected would be fine (never recharged one in-situ before)?
Alternately is it a sign of a battery on the way out and if so why wouldn't the CTEK have picked it up ?

I'm guessing I'll have to go with a suck it and see....

cheers
 
It was/is, just one query.
Reconnected it this morning and got all the way up to 7 (green) on the pretty lights.
I checked the voltage on the dash reading and came up as 11.9v - checked it across the posts under the bonnet and showing 12v.
As I got a green light on the CTEK I'm assuming it's all good as far as the clever box is concerned but thought that a good fully charged battery would sit around 12.2v and 11.9 is discharged. Am I getting these readings because of the background drains pulling it down and the battery disconnected would be fine (never recharged one in-situ before)?
Alternately is it a sign of a battery on the way out and if so why wouldn't the CTEK have picked it up ?

I'm guessing I'll have to go with a suck it and see....

cheers

See posts #9 and #10 on the thread below:

 
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This explains what all the lights mean. They're not a top-up gauge, they indicate different fucntions.

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