Power steering bleed c200 cdi

[Petrol Pete]

OP , you must have the old pump. What do you think was wrong with it , can you feel if its broken ? How does it feel when you turn it etc. You say new pump " not identical but same.." What do you mean by that , part number/size of pulley/mounting points ??

 

[whitefang]

Hi good morning...

Petrol Pete, how doing...

If you turn the old pump belt wheel you feel a grinding / wobble.
It's the same part number pump but a different brand. (think last part of part number is 2601, & the new brand I'd have to check for it for you). But it's all compatible.

How much fluid from empty pump.. pipes.. rack.. all empty, how much to fill it.?
If I do another total flush would I use a litre or ....?

The o ring on the pipe that goes onto the pump.... you think this could of / be failing.?

We got the air out if it (my dad did with mother's help) again yesterday, then engine on & air back in system.

Can't be rack can it.....

Thanks all....

 

[Petrol Pete]

It only holds a total of about one litre give or take a 100ml or so of fluid depending on the rack.

A proper mystery , if it was leaking on the pressure side you would know about it pretty quickly. I do not know the system intimately but it would appear that it is drawing in air somehow from somewhere. But that (in my mind) would show as a leak when the car is turned off as the whole system is gravity fed (reservoir higher that the pump) so a leak on the return side (to the pump) should be visible.

Does this steering rack have a cooling radiator and have you replaced the fluid with the correct MB spec stuff since post #8 ?

 

[Bellow]

Is the reservoir remote from the pump - or integral to it?

 

[whitefang]

Yeah, Pete, a cooler, like wave-y pipe.
The oil is same as link, was told by reliable shop were we get most of our stuf, & the mb345.0 on the can.

Hi bellow, the tank, the pump came as complete unit, ,(new).

Thanks for help.

https://static.winparts.net/filters-fluids/fluids/power-steering-fluid/c1634/eurol-powersteering-fluid-c-1l/p6378749_900_900.jpg

 

[Petrol Pete]

Are we assuming ( NEVER assume anything ! ) the pump died because it ran dry and if so there was (is) there a leak ? have you had the boots off the end of the rack to see if they are filled with oil ? clutching at straws here I'm afraid.

 

[whitefang]

Yeah... Yeah boots checked mate.
May / more than likely order a o ring

A023 997 70 45

The change it & try again flush / re prime.

Think dad is sort a place to see if rack can be checked.

I read this last night....on another site.

Power Steering Fluid 236.3 or 345.0? - MBWorld.org Forums

CLK-Class (W209) - Power Steering Fluid 236.3 or 345.0? - Hello everyone. I have a Mercedes-Benz W209 CLK320 VIN: WDB2093651F112333 (M112 engine / year: 2004) mileage 50 000 km . I bought it in Japan (it has a left side steering wheel from the factory). I need your advice please. Recently I...

mbworld.org

 

[Bellow]

Hi bellow, the tank, the pump came as complete unit, ,(new).

OK. It will help if we firm up the terminology here. The pump should have two pipes, one to the rack, the other the return from the rack (via the cooler). The first is at high pressure (call it the HP one) the second at lower pressure (call it the LP one).

There are two distinct processes involved - flushing and bleeding. They are done separately.

this weekend (yesturday). we took the feed pipe off the resovior, (put a blanked end pipe on the resovior in the feed place),
we put the feed pipe into a clear coke bottle, then bleed the system to flush & remove any air in the system without it going into the resovior.
as dad was turning the wheel (engine off) i watched the fluid level & the fluid going into the bottle.
dad said he full locked the wheel about 10 times, & in this time the fluid that came into the coke bottle never spluttered, it flowed in,. i did keep the resovior topped up, used a litre.
we put the feed pipe back to the resovior.
used about few mouth fulls to make sure all is ok.
then started the engine, then found out it was screaming again a bit. so did bleed for few turns. the turned off the engine.

I can't make out what you were doing there. Flushing requires the engine running (no mention of that) and bleeding is done with all hoses connected and by swinging the steering wheel.

The procedure that worked for me was:
Remove LP pipe from reservoir (and blank exposed reservoir stub). Place end of LP pipe in receptacle and start engine. Within 5 seconds the pump will swallow all the oil from the reservoir and have displaced it into the drain receptacle. Fill reservoir and repeat until clean fluid is seen at the drain receptacle and/or there is the system volume in the drain receptacle. This does not require the steering wheel be moved.
I flushed through around 3 litres on a system with a quoted volume of 2 litres. On mine, there was no possibility of doing the above continuously as the pump circulates so fast it is physically impossible to replenish the reservoir fast enough to keep up. Accept then, that air enters the system. The system is now flushed.

Reconnect the LP pipe to the reservoir and without the engine running swing the steering wheel lock to lock (40 times in my case). That should accomplish the bleeding (the subsequent engine start is merely a check that the system is working). Ensure the level is correct and check a few days later as any remaining trapped air will find its way out and drop the level (very very slightly only).

If you are confident that you got close enough to the above (especially the engine off bleeding with the system (other than the cap) closed) then there should be very little air to expel and if there is air still emerging we can explore why. The source of the scream needs to be ascertained also.

 

[DSM10000]

OK. It will help if we firm up the terminology here. The pump should have two pipes, one to the rack, the other the return from the rack (via the cooler). The first is at high pressure (call it the HP one) the second at lower pressure (call it the LP one).

There are two distinct processes involved - flushing and bleeding. They are done separately.

I can't make out what you were doing there. Flushing requires the engine running (no mention of that) and bleeding is done with all hoses connected and by swinging the steering wheel.

The procedure that worked for me was:
Remove LP pipe from reservoir (and blank exposed reservoir stub). Place end of LP pipe in receptacle and start engine. Within 5 seconds the pump will swallow all the oil from the reservoir and have displaced it into the drain receptacle. Fill reservoir and repeat until clean fluid is seen at the drain receptacle and/or there is the system volume in the drain receptacle. This does not require the steering wheel be moved.
I flushed through around 3 litres on a system with a quoted volume of 2 litres. On mine, there was no possibility of doing the above continuously as the pump circulates so fast it is physically impossible to replenish the reservoir fast enough to keep up. Accept then, that air enters the system. The system is now flushed.

Reconnect the LP pipe to the reservoir and without the engine running swing the steering wheel lock to lock (40 times in my case). That should accomplish the bleeding (the subsequent engine start is merely a check that the system is working). Ensure the level is correct and check a few days later as any remaining trapped air will find its way out and drop the level (very very slightly only).

If you are confident that you got close enough to the above (especially the engine off bleeding with the system (other than the cap) closed) then there should be very little air to expel and if there is air still emerging we can explore why. The source of the scream needs to be ascertained also.

A very clear and helpful description of the process.

 

[whitefang]

Thanks bellow,
I will reply to you again soon, I'm at work at mo' now. I will report back to you.
Thanks a lot.

 

[Bellow]

A very clear and helpful description of the process.

I did all of that in May. Not for the faint hearted - the pump shifts 15litres/minute at idle speed. One litre every four seconds.

 

[whitefang]

hi all / bellow.
how you doing....

im looking over my post #....
& im sorry i made a mistake in post #6
i wrote ....

this weekend (yesturday). we took the feed pipe off the resovior, (put a blanked end pipe on the resovior in the feed place),
we put the feed pipe into a clear coke bottle, then bleed the system to flush & remove any air in the system without it going into the resovior.
as dad was turning the wheel (engine off) i watched the fluid level & the fluid going into the bottle.
dad said he full locked the wheel about 10 times, & in this time the fluid that came into the coke bottle never spluttered, it flowed in,. i did keep the resovior topped up, used a litre.
we put the feed pipe back to the resovior.
used about few mouth fulls to make sure all is ok.
then started the engine, then found out it was screaming again a bit. so did bleed for few turns. the turned off the engine.

..... it was not the feed pipe we took off it was the return pipe we took off ,.... sorry......

..
we did this, to get as much froth out of the system & with out it going back into the resovior.
we put back the pipe to the resovior & did the full lock to lock again (not for long) & it seemed ok.

then engine on, then froth again.

at 1st the noise im told was a bearing kind of noise, & you can feel play on the belt wheel.

new pump on the car & bleed with the mb345.0 oil that we were told to use by the shop were we get a good lot of parts / oils.
now the screaming i mean sounds lot like the youtube video. (the time frame on the video = 1.10 - 1.20)
& its only doing the sound when the car is near full lock, not on the slight turn.

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dad, phone a rack repair place & the guy said 98% not the rack issue, but cant tell without looking.
the guy.. its his job (how he makes his money) fixing racks, so if he as said i dont want your money & the rack is 98 % ok then il go along with that.

so we are going to get onto mb & order a o ring .... its the only o ring i see on the pump.
& do an fluid change, & bleed.

the pump we got was a stark SKHP-0540125.

thanks all.

30

A 023 997 70 45

O-RING

 

[Bellow]

..... it was not the feed pipe we took off it was the return pipe we took off ,.... sorry......

..

No problem - now I know.
Thing is, that's only required for flushing the system. It will bleed back through the filler neck without any additional aeration.

we did this, to get as much froth out of the system & with out it going back into the resovior.
we put back the pipe to the resovior & did the full lock to lock again (not for long) & it seemed ok.

then engine on, then froth again.

at 1st the noise im told was a bearing kind of noise, & you can feel play on the belt wheel.

I can't be sure, but that is possibly just the air being expelled - the bleeding process.
I can't easily see how air can get into the system (other than during flushing if the reservoir can't be kept full - as mine was) as the system is under constant pressure. Even the return line is at pressure - albeit lower. I think the rack is the same as when one ram is under high pressure, the other one (or side) is being forced by the operating one to expel fluid so pressurised.

new pump on the car & bleed with the mb345.0 oil that we were told to use by the shop were we get a good lot of parts / oils.
now the screaming i mean sounds lot like the youtube video. (the time frame on the video = 1.10 - 1.20)

I just dipped into the video - seems his squealing is a slipping belt....

& its only doing the sound when the car is near full lock, not on the slight turn.

At full lock is where the pressure goes sky high and the pump is really working hard. A belt that is not tensioned 100% correctly, is contaminated, worn, etc will squeal. If this becomes your only symptom then you don't have too much of a problem. To give you an idea of just how savage on the system full lock is I don't allow mine to spend time there. As soon as I hit a lock stop I relax the wheel a touch to release some pressure.

so we are going to get onto mb & order a o ring .... its the only o ring i see on the pump.
& do an fluid change, & bleed.

Going back to the assumption that it is drawing air - between the reservoir and the pump is the only real suction area it could occur. If that is where that O ring is situated then it is worth changing.
Given that entails breaking back into the system, consider fitting an in-line filter in the LP return line. I fitted two on mine (I have two return lines) and they are cheap and easy to do. They have filtration media and magnets in them. If there's any debris floating about from the previous pump, it's your best chance of catching it before it does damage. Principally though, they are to catch any break up of the rubber hose's internals that can jam a valve open. If you're interested I'll try and find a link to the ones I bought.

 

[whitefang]

thanks a lot bellow & you folks.
appreciate the help.
see what happens on o ring re-new & new fluid, & il be back.

have a good night (whats left of it).

thanks ...

 

[DSM10000]

thanks a lot bellow & you folks.
appreciate the help.
see what happens on o ring re-new & new fluid, & il be back.

have a good night (whats left of it).

thanks ...

KBO!

 

[optimusprime]

Pumps in good condition will scream when put on on to full lock , you are not supposed to stay in full lock above 5 seconds original pump was most likely ok . The other pump you fitted must be of the same number as the one removed ..Dont fit just because it looks the same .

 

[whitefang]

Hi all good mornin.
Hope you enjoying the weather..may it last bit longer.

Well...thanks all for your help on the above.

We changed the little o ring on the pipe going into the pump. It's about the size of ... Less / smaller than the 1/2 penny sterling coin, you probably get a peti pod pea through it.
Then bleed the it again, still took 6 - 7 hours, stopping every 10 minutes for a quick breather & every time we went back to it, it bubble like if there was a gold fish or scuba diver in there with the size of bubble burp.
But yeah day after I was told like new now, so must of been either a nightmare to bleed or the o ring.

Thanks all, this was done last weekend, I'm late to reply to you.
Thanks a lot for the help / info.

Good luck with your things & hope I can put some info your way.

Talk soon.

 

[Petrol Pete]

Thanks for getting back to us . What a pain in the butt that was for you !