Pre Wash Debate.... Do you pre wash your Pre wash? What Say You??

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As we have discussed it seems people are getting better results apply to dry vehicles.View attachment 106069

That's direct from the BH retailer Group, and Majority also voted for the same method.

I've also spoke to my Detailer that Coated My car, he too doesn't rinse prior to SF OR Prewash

Water and oil dont mix so wetting the panel with water on a panel with Traffic film prior to prewash is a total waste of time. It's just leaves a watery oily residue that means a higher concentration or prewash

NOT only is this a waste of time, but also a waste of water.
 
Plenty water here, :mad:rained every day this month, except today. From memory November was the same:(
 
Hey Guys.

More testing done today in a different method as mentioned previously.
This is a courtesy car that I've been using for 2 weeks, it has no protection LSP what so ever, In order to try and make the test as fair as possible I Dried the car off with my warm air blower to remove any existing water and left for 2 hours to warm in the sunlight.

I've not managed to cover every base of testing asked for yet. So pls bare with me.

Rear of car beforehand
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This was rinsed with a JW 40°nozzle, treated with BH Korrosol 10/1, allowed to dwell for as long as possible then rinsed again, then swab tested.
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As you can see there is still a large amount of soiling still present. I then tested the panel with BH Korrosol 5/1, coated in foam PH7 SF allowed to dwell then rinse.
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Still soiling remains despite upping the concentration and foaming. This shows that despite rinsing first and using APC then washing again at twice the concentration soiling remains. This Is due to the amount of water laying on the panel and not allowing the APC to fully bond correctly.

Next up drivers side beforehand
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Rinsed with JW, treated with Citrus prewash 10/1, allowed to dwell then rinsed.
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Again very similar results as APC.


Next drivers side wing, rinsed with JW, coated with Citrus prewash 10/1 and SF, allowed to dwell
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Again very similar results to the other areas that had a rinse prior to chemical only this time coated with SF to help the chemical work, again due to excess water already on the panel, even with APC and foam it still failed to remove the soiling.

Lastly I did the whole passenger side.
Passenger side of car beforehand 20201220_143834.jpg
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This side including the wheel had no rinse. Citrus-pre-wash applied at 20/1 and coated in PH7 foam and allowed to dwell then rinsed.

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Then swab tested to show remaining soiling
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Now as I thought due to the panel being dry, it's actually allows the chemical to bond with the panel for far longer, even though we have a weaker concentration of APC 20/1 and coated in SF the results are far better than using 10/1, 5/1 and SF on a wet panel.
So by doing it this way, not only are we using far less water, it's also faster, more cost effective and gives better results.

Again, as said I've not covered every method that has been mentioned, so pls bare with me.
 
Oh Look.. seems I'm not on my own in this debate

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Hey Guys.

More testing done today in a different method as mentioned previously.
...............

Again, as said I've not covered every method that has been mentioned, so pls bare with me.
Wow lots of time and effort Tx. If I've read your results correctly, SF does not remove all baked on dirt.........
 
Not completely, but I used a PH Neutral SF and very low Concentration of Citrus. If I did that same method with 10/1 and coated in SF then it Probaly would have TBh

And if I'd used BH Autofaom it would have most certainly removed all of it.

Again this was on a car with No LSP. So a car that has a good LSP would have even better results with the Lower Concentration.
 
Some great results there!

It really shows how much is being removed and i certainly wouldn't want to press and spread the dirt, grit and grime from the more the heavily contaminated panels against the paintwork and scratch it to high heaven.

It also highlights the proper use of the chemicals and they do indeed need direct contact with the contaminants by applying to dry panels to do there job properly and more efficiently.
 
Moving on from this, I dont really see the point in doing anymore testing, as we've pretty much concluded that direct applications of chemical works better without pr rinsing.

I'm now working g on another wash method. Still using the multi Mitt, but in a different order. Again I know this will be subject to review but its something I've been looking into personally. As of yet I cant find anything that related to this new method so it should be interesting (for some anyway).
 
Moving on from this, I dont really see the point in doing anymore testing, as we've pretty much concluded that direct applications of chemical works better without pr rinsing.

I'm now working g on another wash method. Still using the multi Mitt, but in a different order. Again I know this will be subject to review but its something I've been looking into personally. As of yet I cant find anything that related to this new method so it should be interesting (for some anyway).

Thanks for doing the tests Lee and I think you right pre-rinsing prior to pre-washing is counter productive and if anything doubling the work required at the first stage and then having to double the concentration of ones chosen pre-treatment.

Looking forward to hearing about the new method.
 

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