Problem With Ka Throttle Sticking - Fixed Easily..
Hi Chaps,
Just joined the forum to let you know that the advice on this thread just solved our sticky Ka throttle problem. Like others here, our throttle was sticking open at revs when changing gear. The throttle cable was fine and the throttle mechanism was falling fully closed when the pedal was released (I got someone to cause the fault whilst I watched outside with the bonnet partly open) so I thought I'd search the web to find potential solutions- thus I came to this forum thread. I am not a motor mechanic but do have basic mechanical/engineering abilities, as most car drivers used to have and, I feel, should still have. People rely on others to fix everything these days and this means that basic repair ability in many of life's areas is becoming something which is beyond the ordinary person. A sad state of affairs for a nation which used to lead the world in all forms of engineering and technology just a little while ago! Cheap goods mean that people throw things away instead of fixing what they have, I guess.
Anyway; enough preaching. This is what I did to fix the Ka
I modified the advice given here on the forum and did the following:
1: Disconnected the battery positive lead to clear the onboard computer status. Left disconnected for at least 10 mins to be sure.
2:Removed the Idle Air Control Valve and its assembly. Took the 'O' ring seals out and cleaned both them and their seating grooves. Cleaned all the passages in the IACV and assembly with a small, flexible brush. Refitted the whole thing, carefully tightening all 4 bolts.
3:Removed the top Torx bolt holding the Throttle Position Sensor onto the back side of the engine - using a strong pair of piers to rotate the head of the torx bolt. Could not reach the lower bolt. Replaced bolt but with a fibre washer in place between bolt head and assembly. Whilst bolt was out, I jiggled the TPS about a bit to try to free up anything which might be physically jamming it.
4:Unplugged, cleaned and replugged all accessible wiring connectors which relate to the fuel system. This means all the connectors on the IACV, TPS and the others; like the ones which clip onto the bulkhead behind the engine. Be careful not to break or bend any of the little pins inside the connectors. Pull them apart with care and do not pull on the wires but on the plastic housings themselves. You can clean the pins with a cotton bud dipped in WD-40 or similar.
5: Reconnected the battery and fired her up. The sticky throttle was gone
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I hope that this might help some other people with this problem. Its easy to think that your pedal, cable or throttle mech is sticking but it is usually related to the TPS - and isolating one or both of the screws/bolts which hold it on seems to help. I did all of the other stuff just to be sure that everything I could easily reach was in order.
So thanks to those here who suggested ideas. Can I just say that I would also advise anyone against using the Ford Main Dealer garage in Old Welwyn, Hertfordshire? They charged us for a lot unneccesary labour and parts the last time we used them, were very rude, very slow and we are presently suing them for returning our vehicle with incredibly serious faults which they had caused by fitting several parts incorrectly and by breaking other parts in sheer incompetence
. We feel that they may even have done this deliberately after we got upset when they kept on hanging up on us when we called to find out whether the car was ready. Be warned! Ford Main Dealer garages are pretty bad generally but the one at Welwyn, Hertfordshire is downright lethal. I'd let my 5- year -old fix the car before I'd trust them again
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Learn to fix your own car. Save money and keep safe. These things are not as complicated as people think they are! Don't be like the other sheep who pay a fortune to a so-called mechanic who is simply ripping you off.
Best Wishes,
CJ.
