Protection after bodyshop

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Your bodyshop guy is correct, as long as they are using modern paints, you can apply polishes and waxes whenever you like, unless given specific instructions to the contrary.

Orange peel I would leave alone, removing heavy orange peel like in most Mercs removes a significant amount of clearcoat, which in turn means scratches in future couldn't be fixed and may need painted due to a lack of cleatcoat, cars coming back from bodyshops will most likely have some orange peel present, unless going for a proper high end show finish they won't spend the time to remove it all as on a daily drivers it's a waste.

Also, removing lots of clear leaves the base coat potentially susceptible to UV damage as this is one of the main things the clear does.
 
Goodness me, the variance of advice on internet forums is huge!
 
That's because some people know what they are talking about and the rest don't.... they just google it to find an answer a common answer, then all of a sudden they are a pro!
There are so many variables with automotive paints, as a result you will get various different answers.
 
That's because some people know what they are talking about and the rest don't.... they just google it to find an answer a common answer, then all of a sudden they are a pro!
There are so many variables with automotive paints, as a result you will get various different answers.

I sometimes question why I bother to reply to threads, as people who don't really know what they are doing but have watched a few Youtube videos and tried a few things on their own car, speak the gospel.
 
How about spraying the inner arches with Bilt Hamber Dynax UC?
 
It's good stuff, make sure you get the arches super clean before applying it.

i.e as soon as it comes out of the bodyshop... I need to read up on the notes again, I think that it's water resistant. I believe that it does have a tendency to attract dirt, however.
 
i.e as soon as it comes out of the bodyshop... I need to read up on the notes again, I think that it's water resistant. I believe that it does have a tendency to attract dirt, however.
Pretty much any wax will attract dirt to some extent, it's the inherent problem with the stickiness that's difficult to negate.

But the UC works well, on my R33 GTR Skyline which is now sold I stripped off all the old underbody protection, treated any rust then covered underside in UC and drove the car for a year.

Upon inspection after the year it had been well protected with no signs of corrosion. Just make sure and get it into every nook and cranny.
 
Slow progress, but I haven't asked them for any rush, so they've been attending to other jobs clearly. Nevertheless, the dent man made an appearance today and addressed two quite bad dinks - one in the osr door

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and another on the roof - I am not certain where it is in the photo, but in the flash I can make out a faint mottled effect as the only tell tale.

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I'm told that it'll be painted and ready this week which will be nice, though the job has fallen nicely at my insurance renewal, so I'm saving a few quid whilst the job gets done anyhow.
 
I popped in today to see that they have been working on prep work since yesterday- scotchbrite and spotting work - the latter to smooth imperfections, chips and dinks.

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Painting takes place tomorrow and then they'll leave it until next week before polishing.
 
Some progress today - painted with five coats of obsidian and three coats of lacquer.

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The plan now is to leave the paint to settle for a week then a flat and polish by, using a block. This will take over a day, so a good old-school process.

There was a nice silver shimmer in the paint, visible on the bonnet bulges, which I had never seen before.
 
This looks a great job! I’d like to do similar to my Obsidian Black E500 at some point but am not sure I can stomach the cost. I’m sure it’ll easily take £1k or more to get the minor dents out, get the paint in order and then get it detailed. And it lives on the street so there’s always the risk of it gradually accruing minor marks again. That said, all but one of the marks on my car appeared in car parks rather than when parked at home. Odd considering the car is only rarely in car parks...
 
This looks a great job! I’d like to do similar to my Obsidian Black E500 at some point but am not sure I can stomach the cost. I’m sure it’ll easily take £1k or more to get the minor dents out, get the paint in order and then get it detailed. And it lives on the street so there’s always the risk of it gradually accruing minor marks again. That said, all but one of the marks on my car appeared in car parks rather than when parked at home. Odd considering the car is only rarely in car parks...

Yeah, well, there is none of this that doesn't apply to me! Go figure! o_O
 
That's the same info I've been told by my usual bodyshop, water based paints and properly baked an oven means you can polish straight away. They often do to get the finish spot on.

I mean you could give it a couple of weeks before waxing if you want but realistically speaking, it'll be fine to do.
 
We're almost ready for collection. I'm aiming for Saturday and then I'll drop it with Ed at Divine Detailing on Sunday. So far, I've been without my car for about two months and thanks to lockdown and my bicycle, haven't missed it.

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great news buddy, looking forward to seeing some finished pics... What are you planning on having done at the detailer
 
Car will definitely look good once Ed has finished with it too. You'll only be 2 minutes down the road from where I live as well! haha
 
great news buddy, looking forward to seeing some finished pics... What are you planning on having done at the detailer

A correction (according to the level necessary from the condition in which it leaves the bodyshop) and a ceramic coating to ensure for around five years. He is recommending Miyaki + Zipang from Kamikaze.
 
Car will definitely look good once Ed has finished with it too. You'll only be 2 minutes down the road from where I live as well! haha

You can do a drive by and report on progress 🙂
 

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