Purchasing a CL600 Bi-Turbo or SL500

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martyp87

Active Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Messages
535
Location
Edinburgh
Car
W166 GLE350d
Hello all,

Long time no post, but I'm back and ready to upgrade!

My CLK240 isn't the most interesting of cars to drive, lacking power and comfort so I've had my eye on a CL or SL for a while now comes the time to pull the trigger. :bannana:

I know these are rather sensitive beasts with ABC etc, so I'm just wondering what questions I should be asking dealers and checking for when viewing the car(s). I will be most likely travelling over 300 miles to view them so would like to have some questions to ask over the phone before setting off and being disappointed.

My main questions I have thought of for the CL is limited to mainly; is there any corrosion visible on the bodywork, any issues with ABC, FSH and when is the next service due, tyre and brake condition and just overall condition.

SL500; rust, FSH, any issues with ABC, next service due mileage, hydraulics for roof, overall condition.

I know the V8 5ltr is a fairly solid motor and the 5.5 V12 Bi-Turbo has a oil cooler in the middle of the motor which can cost a fortune if it leaks but aside from that it is also fairly strong.

Any pointers/advice would be greatly appreciated however.

Thank you in advance.

Marty
 
Woodythewise is in your neck of the woods. He has a CL600. I'm sure he will be able to offer advice.
 
Guy in Ayr
selling a lovely W215 CL600 in silver with MB tier 1 warranty.

Either on this or the other forum, I'll try and find his details.

Colin.
Hello all,

Long time no post, but I'm back and ready to upgrade!

My CLK240 isn't the most interesting of cars to drive, lacking power and comfort so I've had my eye on a CL or SL for a while now comes the time to pull the trigger. :bannana:

I know these are rather sensitive beasts with ABC etc, so I'm just wondering what questions I should be asking dealers and checking for when viewing the car(s). I will be most likely travelling over 300 miles to view them so would like to have some questions to ask over the phone before setting off and being disappointed.

My main questions I have thought of for the CL is limited to mainly; is there any corrosion visible on the bodywork, any issues with ABC, FSH and when is the next service due, tyre and brake condition and just overall condition.

SL500; rust, FSH, any issues with ABC, next service due mileage, hydraulics for roof, overall condition.

I know the V8 5ltr is a fairly solid motor and the 5.5 V12 Bi-Turbo has a oil cooler in the middle of the motor which can cost a fortune if it leaks but aside from that it is also fairly strong.

Any pointers/advice would be greatly appreciated however.

Thank you in advance.

Marty
 
Woodythewise does have a very nice example, unfortunately he has decided to keep it and I cannot blame him one bit.

Thanks for the info though, I will drop him a message.
 
Hello all,

Long time no post, but I'm back and ready to upgrade!

My CLK240 isn't the most interesting of cars to drive, lacking power and comfort so I've had my eye on a CL or SL for a while now comes the time to pull the trigger. :bannana:

I know these are rather sensitive beasts with ABC etc, so I'm just wondering what questions I should be asking dealers and checking for when viewing the car(s). I will be most likely travelling over 300 miles to view them so would like to have some questions to ask over the phone before setting off and being disappointed.

My main questions I have thought of for the CL is limited to mainly; is there any corrosion visible on the bodywork, any issues with ABC, FSH and when is the next service due, tyre and brake condition and just overall condition.

SL500; rust, FSH, any issues with ABC, next service due mileage, hydraulics for roof, overall condition.

I know the V8 5ltr is a fairly solid motor and the 5.5 V12 Bi-Turbo has a oil cooler in the middle of the motor which can cost a fortune if it leaks but aside from that it is also fairly strong.

Any pointers/advice would be greatly appreciated however.

Thank you in advance.

Marty

Marty,

The cars are so far apart, they can't be compared. From my brief, half year ownership of a CL600 V12TT, I can say that there's nothing - I stress - absolutely nothing that comes close to this engine in the whole Mercedes line up (except the bigger version of the same block - 6.0L "65" AMG). With just a remap it's a 600+ HP car. Add a pair of top mounted intercoolers and you're in 700 territory. The feeling you get from driving the V12 turbocharged engine is so damn incredible, you just don't want to go back to driving "normal" cars. Forget about the 500. 600 is on another planet entirely. Heck, it's a whole new universe, light years apart.

One common thing to go on V12s is coil packs. Unlike the V8, where each coil pack is a separate item, V12 has two rows of 6 each so if one goes bad, you have to replace the whole side and it's over a grand. The good news is somebody over in Canada managed to fix a faulty coil pack so if you're technically inclined, have mechanical intuition and are handy with a spanner, you can try and DIY it to save money. Check MBWorld for more info.

I'm leaving ABC out of the discussion as it's another story but same applies. You either fix it yourself or pay someone to do it for you.

One last thing. V12 drinks fuel like there's no tomorrow. At WOT I was able to watch the fuel needle going down in real time.
 
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Alx, that's pretty much what I've found. Coilpacks and ABC. The thing is, the SL has ABC also and that was my main worry so that's a bit of a mute point.

I know the two cars are totally different and the CL600 has the most appeal to my inner 1/4 mile craving the cheap remap to take it to 600 is the best bit although I believe I need to have a few ££££'s spare for coilpacks after remapping?

Fuel is not a concern in the slightest so no worries there, my last 4.7 V8 could also move the fuel gauge in real time. :)

It was mainly just comparing the CL and SL as those are the two I would like to own. The CL also has the newer COMAND which is a plus too and I can't see me driving around with the top down that much really.

I've found a CL so will be calling about it today, it is 300+ miles away though so just want to ask all the right questions first!
 
Okay, just called the dealer and this one sounds perfect. As new inside, FMBSH, everything electric works, just passed MoT, outside looks great (some stone chips), just needs tax which he can sort out for me.

One thing he did say, he replaced the battery on the car and everything works as it should except the radio. The COMAND powers up and works - nav/radio etc, but no sound comes out from the BOSE amp?

Any ideas if this just needs a trip to MB to reset or if it could be more sinister? Wanting to call him back today to put a deposit down on her.

HPI check is all clear and no note of accidents etc. :)

EDIT: Just searched google and a thread on MBWorld came up, looks like it just needs to be reset at the dealer with DAS test equipment - should knock some money off as that will likely cost £100.
 
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Alx, that's pretty much what I've found. Coilpacks and ABC. The thing is, the SL has ABC also and that was my main worry so that's a bit of a mute point.

I know the two cars are totally different and the CL600 has the most appeal to my inner 1/4 mile craving the cheap remap to take it to 600 is the best bit although I believe I need to have a few ££££'s spare for coilpacks after remapping?

Fuel is not a concern in the slightest so no worries there, my last 4.7 V8 could also move the fuel gauge in real time. :)

It was mainly just comparing the CL and SL as those are the two I would like to own. The CL also has the newer COMAND which is a plus too and I can't see me driving around with the top down that much really.

I've found a CL so will be calling about it today, it is 300+ miles away though so just want to ask all the right questions first!

Coilpacks don't go overnight but some advise they wear out sooner on a tuned car. A lot depends on what condition your car is going to be. Low mileage examples will give you a bit more time before they go but if there's say a 5 grand cheaper car with 20k more miles on the clock, you might as well go for it and set some money aside for when you need the new coilpacks. Alternatively, there's always a DIY route. There's a wealth of information on maintenance of V12s on the forum I recommended above with most thing covered in great details (like repair of ABC pumps, valve blocks and coilpacks). Very informative and you learn a lot of new things as well. I'm on my second CL (55K this time) and I love this car. Was after a 65 initially but found this clean, low mileage supercharged V8 and went for it. Have a lot lined up for it over the next few months, currently refreshing the interior and doing a track day next week. Go for it, you will never look back.
 
Okay, just called the dealer and this one sounds perfect. As new inside, FMBSH, everything electric works, just passed MoT, outside looks great (some stone chips), just needs tax which he can sort out for me.

One thing he did say, he replaced the battery on the car and everything works as it should except the radio. The COMAND powers up and works - nav/radio etc, but no sound comes out from the BOSE amp?

Any ideas if this just needs a trip to MB to reset or if it could be more sinister? Wanting to call him back today to put a deposit down on her.

HPI check is all clear and no note of accidents etc. :)

EDIT: Just searched google and a thread on MBWorld came up, looks like it just needs to be reset at the dealer with DAS test equipment - should knock some money off as that will likely cost £100.

Cannot advise regarding the sound. My Comand is unplugged at the moment and yesterday I briefly disconnected the battery so might be in for reset when Comand goes back.

V12TT are not the easiest thing in the world to sell so haggle hard. You might knock a bit more than you originally thought.
 
I read you may also need to reset the sunroof and windows if you get really unlucky! Briefly should be fine. Can't believe how fussy these cars on the electrical side, if it isn't a genuine MB or Bosch/Varta battery I think I will upgrade it myself just to play it safe.

Going to fly down Friday and drive back up, stopping for fuel a lot! :D Not going to be the most fun drive in the world, no radio but I assume the sound of a V12TT might just be enough. :D

I kind of assumed I can knock something off it, see how far he'll go. Problem is they are also pretty damn rare so there is that advantage in his court I suppose.

Can't wait!!!! Literally like a kid waiting on Christmas, going to sort insurance out today and take a look at warranties?
 
I read you may also need to reset the sunroof and windows if you get really unlucky! Briefly should be fine. Can't believe how fussy these cars on the electrical side, if it isn't a genuine MB or Bosch/Varta battery I think I will upgrade it myself just to play it safe.

Going to fly down Friday and drive back up, stopping for fuel a lot! :D Not going to be the most fun drive in the world, no radio but I assume the sound of a V12TT might just be enough. :D

I kind of assumed I can knock something off it, see how far he'll go. Problem is they are also pretty damn rare so there is that advantage in his court I suppose.

Can't wait!!!! Literally like a kid waiting on Christmas, going to sort insurance out today and take a look at warranties?

I tried buying an aftermarket warranty for the 600 but it didn't cover the suspension so I took my chances. Don't have it on 55 either but some here do (Peter aka C43AMG can probably share his experience if he spots this thread).

Exhaust on 600 tends to be very muted standard. Shortly after buying, I had both rear boxes removed (a mod, favoured by the V12 MBWorld crowd) and it sounded amazing but I had a drone in the cabin at lower rpm ever since so I wouldn't recommend going down that route.

Enjoy the trip there and back. I would recommend a soft ECU reset so the car forgets previous owner's driving habits. More enjoyable this way. Here's the procedure:

1. Turn the ignition key to the "on" (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
 
Two very different cars and with all things being equal the forward value and lower depreciation would lean toward the SL :thumb:
 
Hi there, I am in Cumnock in E Ayrshire. If you want to see and feel what a good example of a 600 looks and feels like, drop me a PM. I will help in any way I can.
The 600 is the way to go. Not the earlier ones. The 500bhp is the one you want:)

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK
 
As for warranty, if under 100k miles, and last serviced at MB you can get a tier 1 warranty. Just like on an approved used. Last year mine cost just a tad over a grand.

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Hi Woody, just sorted insurance (only double the CLK at £667, not bad for what is a supercar!) and put a deposit down on the V12TT.

Going down either Wednesday or Friday to collect. I will be stopping by a MB dealer to fix the radio for the drive home though!

Mine has the newer COMAND (not the old separate system) with phone, CD Change, TV etc. I assume these cars have an AUX input in the glove box like my CLK to connect my iPhone for music? With radio going digital, is there a solution for upgrading also or am I stuck with analogue?

No doubt I'll have some queries later but at the moment its all good. I will look into the MB Tier 1 warranty, thanks for the info. :)
 
Hi, are you buying the car unseen?. Not sure what you mean about the command, I think they all come with TV, DVD, MP3CD, PHONE, VOICE COMMAND, SATNAV. radio is Analogue but works well. Nothing in the glovebox. If you wish to know anything specific, as said drop me a PM.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using MBClub UK
 
One more thing....plugs, there are 24 of them. Circa £700 to change via via dealer. Change every 40k or every 4 years. :)

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Are they difficult to change / access, as I couldn't resist looking up which plugs they are and found they're under £8 each.
 
Not sure, as with most jobs it's the labour charges. As I understand it they are buggers to get at, plus there is a danger of damaging the coil packs. A good indie would probably charge less. The ones in mine were marked with the MB sign.

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