R129 1995 SL60 Throttle body nightmare!

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justinjoyit

Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Messages
51
Car
sl60
As per title

I had posted a thread concerning this car but as this is a new issue I felt a new thread would be appropriate.

Some background info:

I inherited this car from my brother who returned to Oz

Had rough running due to a broken coil lead- running on one bank- but sometimes on 2, had loads of power when on all 8. Got a new lead made up by MB. Now running on all 8 but no power.

Currently at an MB specialist who says the throttle body is throwing codes and he thinks it's goosed, which wouldn't be a problem except he says putting a second hand one on won't work as they are programmed for each car and finding a new one will be super expensive- £12-1300 - and hard to get too. Basically he doesn't want to get involved as he said he had a similar nightmare with an SL500. Didn't tell me the codes but I can get them if it helps. He also said ECU is showing some.

What I don't get it that when it just had a broken lead it did have loads of power when it was firing on all 8 and I didn't go near the throttle body- just changed the lead.

When I drove it, it feels like it has gone into a limp mode- is this possible with these cars?

Any help advice greatly appreciated.
 
Give it to BBA re-man. They can often re-build them.
 
Wasn't the wiring harness to the TB a problem on those ?

Theses chaps could help you out

http://www.r129.co/











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I am hoping that the MB tech sorts this but I will look to getting the TB done.
Is it true that they are each programmed to the individual engine though?

The other possible issue is that my brother told me the car has had a re-map to boost horses to about 450...
 
It is usually the wiring (ETA) that goes bad due to heat damage. And if this is your problem , yes, firm above BBA might be able to rebuild.

Yes it is possible that these cars can go into Limp mode! Is the ASR light on?

Also, not true that a new/rebuild ETA needs to be reprogrammed. A basic relearn procedure which really just involves start up sequences in some cases, but it is usually just plug and play! Get fault codes first if you can.

M119 running issues can be frustrating and some indie shops just dont have the patience.
 
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Ok,thanks folks.

So could I just get a rebuilt one or better to send mine away? When you say the wiring ETA I assume the wiring inside the TB and not the harness into the TB?

I will get codes. ASR light not on but my SLK was doing this without the light either- was the MAF in that case.
 
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It's usually the harness! Read thru this and watch some of this guy's videos and you'll see/understand its operation and which wires deteriorates : http://www.restoreyourmercedes.com/Mercedes throttle body rewire.html Speak to BBA they might have one and do a core charge so u can trade in your old one .
 
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Thanks, that's a great link and I have quite a few of those issues- tranny not shifting, no cruise control, accelerator etc- the ASR light is not on though but it was at one point I remember but it went out again on restart.
 
Based on the description and commentary with regard to the problem described by "justinjoyit," I believe that I have a throttle body problem as well, but of a slightly different nature. I have a 1993 500SL which in general runs perfectly as long as I use it daily or at least leave it no longer than around a week without use. If I go longer without using it, the car starts well and runs well for about 20 minutes but then it loses power, goes into limp mode, and shifts at higher rpms. The part which suggests that my complaint is different is that the problem will go away if I get the speed up to 70 mph (100+ kph) and drive for another 15 - 20 min. Periodically using passing gear helps the process. Ultimately, limp mode ends, the engine smooths out with full power restored. This has been the scenario since I bought the car 10 years ago. Does anyone have any ideas as to the nature of this problem?
 
Sorry mate - I have no idea but perhaps because the engine/TB/Loom gets heat in it this somehow gets it working
 
Oh I meant to ask- how do you get the car out of limp mode?

On the one and only time it ever happened with mine, I pulled over, turned off and turned it back on again.

Standard first procedure for anything electronic. :D
 
Doodle, I have also has one occasion where I did not have enough power to go up a slight hill at the end of an exit ramp. I killed the engine and to my surprise, the engine started normally and off I went without any further problems that day. Given that problems all three of us have experienced relate to vehicles produced in the early 90's, one would hope that this posting will go on long enough to capture the attention of others with the knowledge that is out there. I can fully appreciate the deterioration of the insulation which can lead to throttle body problems and their resolution as described by Bing and others. The systems I have experienced over the past 10 years would suggest that insulation deterioration is not the problem yet. Could it be related to fuel deposits over time in the throat of the throttle body? Would a liquid cleaner sprayed into the throttle body help? I also have a 2007 Saab where a cleaner has been used successfully with a similar throttle control. Maybe I am in over my head, but I wanted to ask if there might be a mechanical aspect to this problem as well as electrical.
 
Herm,

It's not clear if you've checked your wiring loom yet - don't assume that it's not part of the problem as it can be responsible for some pretty spurious behaviour. Have you had the ECU codes read to see what is being recorded when it goes into limp home mode?
 
+1 with doodle.

U need to pull codes first and see what's stored ! Aside from ETA, the ECU has several modules that can cause what u described, so u must plug it in and scan first.
 

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