R129 1995 SL60 Throttle body nightmare!

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my friend has similar problem in throttle on sl 500, the indi spent car cleaner can to clean it, switch off electronic use, drove it upto 140 mph to double check all ok, then he reprogrammed it, at start it would run at 1500 rpm for less than 1 min then cut down, but it runs ok and does not have problems with limp mode anymore.

also it low petrol sensor and **** in the tank can also cause problems

i realise might not be the same problem but another throttle solution
 
justinjoyit said:
Lets take that back... it DOES fire on all eight... till it gets hot and then it also stops working! In other words I bought a dud!
Click to expand...

Have u replaced coils ? Does it start and run ok when cold ?
 
bing said:
Have u replaced coils ? Does it start and run ok when cold ?
Click to expand...


It does run fine when cold- but I've been told that the ezl can do this and this was the problem with the one we took out- except it got so bad it wouldn't even work when cold anymore.

Coils have been tested.

Sending this one back

I have ordered another one so hopefully get it next week and this time it will work!
 
justinjoyit said:
It does run fine when cold- but I've been told that the ezl can do this and this was the problem with the one we took out- except it got so bad it wouldn't even work when cold anymore. Coils have been tested. Sending this one back I have ordered another one so hopefully get it next week and this time it will work!
Click to expand...

Hmm...I haven't heard EZL work fine when cold or intermittently . Either its bad or not, but I suppose it's possible ?!

If replacement doesn't cure it I would look at other ignition parts such as plug boots, plugs , caps and rotors .
 
Since the damage sustained by EZL units is normally thermally related its entirely possible that in early stages of failure that faults occur just as the unit heats up and are reversed when the unit cools down. Eventually/ inevitably this progresses to total failure usually of the power ouput transistor/s. One quick test that can be done on a unit that's failing is to use some non conducting aerosol freezer mix on it- if this restores function then it helps pinpoint the fault- however once they are on the way out- usually its only a matter of time.:(
 
Yes I agree that it does seem odd but that's what I have learned from others including Victor who rebuilds the throttle bodies in the US. He was going to send me one with the same fault of working only when cold so as to narrow down my problem. While I appreciated that , it didn't make much sense as it would only cause more delay, of which I have had much, so decided to punt on a used one- which turned out the same... But have ordered another - another gamble but also contacted that German company who say they 'may' be able to fix it and if they can, it's like £400. So, might do that anyway as it is the correct part for an AMG.

Oh the joys of rare car ownership...
 
Have you been following the other thread?

Anyone opened a failed EZL before? - Mercedes-Benz Forum

https://translate.google.co.uk/tran...%A4rmeleitpaste_und_Folie_erneuern&edit-text=


this from an old rebuilding firm

EZL’s, also known as Ignition Control Modules, are mainly found in Mercedes Benz, although they are found in some Porsche and Ferrari models as well. Prices of the EZL’s depend on the model of the vehicle.
Why do they fail?
There are several reasons an EZL may fail.
Age: The computer chips do not last forever. Eventually, they will all go bad. Some will last 10 years, some will last 100. But one failure in one component will make the EZL not work properly.
Heat Paste: Temperatures under the hood get very high, which is very damaging to many electronics. EZL’s will only function up to 110°F. Heat paste is a heat-transferring compound that is used to mount the EZL in the vehicle. Over the years, the heat paste will dry out and can no longer transfer the heat. The unit becomes “cooked” beyond function. In many cases, if this is the cause of failure, the EZL is no longer rebuildable. The chip that burns was designed in 1988 and is no longer manufactured. In electronics, ten years is a lifetime.
Spike: The regular voltage in your car is about 12 Volts (actually 13.0-13.5). The computers in the car run at smart voltage (about 2.7-3.5 Volts). If you have a spike in your electronic system, or any part of the 12 Volt circuit touches any part of the smart voltage system, damage to the EZL or other components will occur.
Bad Coil(s): If one or more of the coils is/are bad, the EZL will be fed too much voltage or amperage and it will burn.
Bad Injection Computer: A bad computer or failure of other components in the same circuit as the EZL might also be the reason for failure.
NOTE:
Other problems in the vehicle will cause an EZL to fail. In order to make the warranty valid, you MUST change the ignition coils, use heat paste to mount the unit, and fix any and all secondary problems in the vehicle. Without performing these steps, you will surely burn any EZL you put in the vehicle.
 
Last edited:
Good article , grober!

Given that cars fitted with EZL are now 20 years + old ,and ones are still original, I guess it's not a bad idea to renew "heat paste" and maybe even coils to at least prolong the life .

Mine died (on my old E500) after 17 years !
 
So an update if anyone is interested. I sent both the original AMG ezl, and the replacement that worked until hot, to Germany- both were beyond repair.

I have bought a further 2 second hand ones from the US in the off chance they may work but if not then I have spoken to MB and sourced new ones which I presume are old stock. They have les than 10 of the 013 codes left and more than 10 of the 015's. They tell me that after these are sold then there will be no more...

On that note can anyone tell me if there are advantages to purchasing the later 015 series-specifically power.
 
where r u based, let us hope it will work and not cause you more agro
 
Yes about half the price but I'm not looking to stinge out on this car, just do what's best for it- would have loved to have the original repaired and gladly paid what they were asking.
 
So the used ones are both duds.. which bothers me actually- can they all be duds? So I am now in the unenviable position of forking out more money for a part I am unsure will work.. Obviously I can send it back but this problem has just worn me down...

The part number I am getting is 0135456332- which is actually about 5 times cheaper than what I am being quoted for the 015 545 6132
 
justinjoyit said:
So the used ones are both duds.. which bothers me actually- can they all be duds? So I am now in the unenviable position of forking out more money for a part I am unsure will work.. Obviously I can send it back but this problem has just worn me down...

The part number I am getting is 0135456332- which is actually about 5 times cheaper than what I am being quoted for the 015 545 6132
Click to expand...

You have pm regarding UK repair guy.
 
dinoy said:
where r u based, let us hope it will work and not cause you more agro
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Thanks Dinoy- I'm in Scotland- I think I know what's going on now and have the right code for the correct ezl it must only be from 4-either 014 545 4232, 4332 or 015 545 6132 or 6232- that's what seems likely now.. but then again who the hell knows till you try it... I've emailed the rebuilders in Germany and one in the US giving all the details including the engine number.
 
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