R129 roof ... Fault finding

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These electical problems (including the flat battery) seem to have stemmed since changing the factory stereo for something else.

When you fitted the replacement radio did you use a converter lead or did you cut cables and solder?

Im just thinking that at this point you should put it back how it was and check the status then.
 
How many amps output is the charger putting out and how many amp hours is the battery.

That should tell you roughly how long to charge it for.
 
These electical problems (including the flat battery) seem to have stemmed since changing the factory stereo for something else.

When you fitted the replacement radio did you use a converter lead or did you cut cables and solder?

Im just thinking that at this point you should put it back how it was and check the status then.

It's a good thought ... The stereo may be the reason.
It was a straight swap though ... It just plugged in.
I could put the factory stereo back in and will tomorrow but many people have changed their head unit with no issue so it is a bit strange?
 
It's a good thought ... The stereo may be the reason.
It was a straight swap though ... It just plugged in.
I could put the factory stereo back in and will tomorrow but many people have changed their head unit with no issue so it is a bit strange?

Wags finger (no finger wagging smilie :mad:) and says in stern voice..."see post 51" :D:D:D
 
How many amps output is the charger putting out and how many amp hours is the battery.

That should tell you roughly how long to charge it for.

Thanks sp!ke ... Charger is 9amps output.

Battery is a Yuasa HSB019 Silver 5000

12v, 100Ah 900A

Is it a good enough battery do you think? It weighs a tonne, I know that much!
 
Thanks sp!ke ... Charger is 9amps output.

Battery is a Yuasa HSB019 Silver 5000

12v, 100Ah 900A

Is it a good enough battery do you think? It weighs a tonne, I know that much!

That's the one I was going to put in...it is good.
 
Wags finger (no finger wagging smilie :mad:) and says in stern voice..."see post 51" :D:D:D

Fair point but a roof guru told me it was because I left the speed sensor attached which I have since removed. Was told all I would need to do then was clear the fault and all would be hunky dory.

Removing stereo makes sense now though.
 
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If the battery is weak you should change it. Even a little drop in voltage will mean the roof won't work... We hardly have many r129's nowadays but at one point we always had a few in the showroom and they always needed to be run for while before the roof would work..
Have you tried with car running and holding the revs at around 2000?
 
Fair point but a roof guru told me it was because I left the speed sensor attached which I have since removed. Was told all I would need to do then was clear the fault and all would be hunky dory.

Removing stereo makes sense now though.
No worries..just having a laugh :D:D
 
The charge will be max 9 amps but will likely be putting out much less than that depending on how discharged your battery was. Does it not say the charge rate while you charge?

Even with a 9 amp charge it would need 10 hours to charge fully and I wouldnt be surprised if it was only outputting 4 amps.
 
If the battery is weak you should change it. Even a little drop in voltage will mean the roof won't work... We hardly have many r129's nowadays but at one point we always had a few in the showroom and they always needed to be run for while before the roof would work..
Have you tried with car running and holding the revs at around 2000?

Thanks, much appreciated. I did try it holding higher revs and made no difference.
It hadn't been for much of a run for couple of weeks due to the issues with my wiper so feasible it needed a boost in the battery.
I do wonder why previous owner changed it the day I bought it though.
 
The charge will be max 9 amps but will likely be putting out much less than that depending on how discharged your battery was. Does it not say the charge rate while you charge?

Even with a 9 amp charge it would need 10 hours to charge fully and I wouldnt be surprised if it was only outputting 4 amps.

Lots of graphics on the display but no charge rate unfortunately. It has slowly been going up though .. Now at 14v, so looking promising to fully charge.
In the past I have used the same charger and it charged very quickly so guess I just needed patience.
 
Do you have a multimeter to check your alternator?


I do have one somewhere. What should I set it to, or am I just looking for around 12v? Thanks
 
Check the float voltage of the battery before starting the car - should be at least 12.5V, probably more if just off a maintenance charger.

Then check with car on idle - hopefully over 14V.
Then turn on lights, blower motor, wipers and radio and check voltage under load - healthy alternator should keep you well up into the high 13V, possibly even 14V if you're lucky.
If your alternator is weak or dead you'll see the voltage decreasing slowly or quickly.
 
Check the float voltage of the battery before starting the car - should be at least 12.5V, probably more if just off a maintenance charger.

Then check with car on idle - hopefully over 14V.
Then turn on lights, blower motor, wipers and radio and check voltage under load - healthy alternator should keep you well up into the high 13V, possibly even 14V if you're lucky.
If your alternator is weak or dead you'll see the voltage decreasing slowly or quickly.

Thank you, will check it out ... Much appreciated.

Out of interest, why does the negative need to come off first when removing the battery? Not 100% I did this nor put positive on first when I replaced. Might I have damaged something?
 
Won't do damage either way. You're just breaking a circuit, it doesn't matter where you break it.

It's for safety really.
If you remove the ground first then you will be fine removing the live with a spanner and won't have to worry about potentially touching something else with a spanner and shorting the battery.
 
Won't do damage either way. You're just breaking a circuit, it doesn't matter where you break it.

It's for safety really.
If you remove the ground first then you will be fine removing the live with a spanner and won't have to worry about potentially touching something else with a spanner and shorting the battery.


Good news, was worried it was more important!

Got the roof working! Will update later with how etc ... Thanks everyone for help!
 
:bannana::bannana::bannana::bannana::bannana:

Definately worth a few bananas!
Over the moon it is sorted ... Hope it stays like it now too.

Basically I put the fully charged battery in and used the code resetter. ( it only let me reset one code as before) Flashes were the same but low voltage did not pop up. I then set the windows and roll bar by going up and down three times and holding. Even did the lock to lock thing three times and tried the roof but nothing! Still would not work
Therefore took it for a 15 mile round trip or so, driving it fairly hard. Stopped on the way at Tesco and another Sl500 had parked behind me.
Got home and tried the roof once more and it just worked! Very odd?
 

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